Advice for UNSTICKING old bolts on Massey Spin-Out Rims

Vineyard_65 · Jul 28, 2011

I have to change the Wheel spacing on my 1964 Std,MF-65 from 72" to 64" so that it will fit between the vines.

The 4 sided, bolts on the Rim Locks & stops aren't wanting to budge. I've sprayed them every day for week with WD-40 hoping that they will break free. For tools, so far, I've tried:

- 1/2" female pipe plug/square socket (too small)
- several sizes of 6 & 12pt sockets (rounds edge off the bolt)
- 13mm open end wrench (fits well but can't get enough leverage to break these free. makes a nice impression on my hands, though?
- 1/2" open end (too small)
- 9/16" open end (too loose)

Talked to the local tool truck, and they don't sell a 13mm female pipe plug socket. Looked online for bit but didn't see anything.

Massey operators manual show a too kit which came with the tractors, but mine had none. Dealer looked at me like I was nuts when I asked if he could order one....

What have you folks used which worked to loosen/tighten the Rim stop bolt and rim connector bolts which are 4 sided? I'm pretty sure I'm not the 1st guy to try change wheel spacing w/o the MF factory tool.

Many Thanks!
-sb

BenAlbert · Jul 28, 2011

Will a 1/2" socket extension fit backwards? If it does, weld a big nut on the other end so you can get a socket on it. I have a factory tool that is like an extension with a square hole on each end. If this doesn't work can you remove the bolts that hold the clamp to the center disk?

Vineyard_65 · Jul 28, 2011

Hi Ben,
Thanks for the suggestion;

Too bad, the back side of a 1/2" drive socket won't fit. Tried that. I can't remove any 4-sided bolts on the Rims with an open end wrench right now. Could you send me picture of the factory tool so I can send it to different dealer?

Many Thanks,
-sb

Anonymous-0 · Jul 28, 2011

WD-40 is crap use some PB blaster or some thing better

Steven, Avilla MO · Jul 28, 2011

Mine were stuck too and I like to never got them out. While I had the tires and tubes off I used some heat and got two unstuck. The other one I had to drill out

I think mine took a regular square socket but it didn"t matter because they wouldn"t budge. I actually broke the head off of one them trying...had to drill that one out too.

Vineyard_65 · Jul 28, 2011

Thanks. Hopefully it won't come to that, but it might.

Vineyard_65 · Jul 28, 2011

Ben, Is there a part # on your "factor tool?"

Many Thanks, -Scott

Tony in Mass. · Jul 28, 2011

First thought- a carefully aimed acetylene torch. Second- and I don't have any MF's with 'power adjust' but I still have an Allis with them. I don't try the wedge bolt, those are always impossible, so I take the bracket off the wheel center, seems then the wedges will loosen up OK, then reinstall the brackets to the rim further up the square bars.... oh, btw, this really works best if the whole thing is laying flat on the ground... I wouldn't atempt this vertically, sorry. and good luck!

jogl · Jul 28, 2011

Will a 1/2" socket extension fit backwards? If it does, weld a big nut on the other end so you can get a socket on it.

I did what Ben suggested. If the square heads of the screws are burred up or rounded you may have to grind or file them back to "squarish".

Before trying to turn them anymore get an oxy acetylene torch and get them red hot first.

JP.

Vineyard_65 · Jul 28, 2011

Thanks for the suggestion:

I can see how a torch would work but was hesitant to use one for fear that the bolt and housing would become soft as butter after being heating them up.

Did you replace your bolts after heating them? If not did they still hold a torque? Steiners wants $10/bolt and $20/casting around the bolt.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 28, 2011

Tony is right, his way is the way to do it. Coupla thoughts, use a good penetrating oil, WD 40 is not a penetrating oil. Each individual clamp can be removed, by themselves, if you rotate the clamp, in question, to the top of the rim, and jack to remove pressure. Be sure not to lose the slider that goes between the cam and the rail, as you dis-assemble. These clamps are not threaded, internally, a cam tightens the clamp, you can generally get them started, by hammering carefully, back and forth, on the front and back, with a soft hammer, and oiling frequently. Then lock the clamp in a vise, and try on and off with an air impact. Once you get it moving, pop off the snap ring, and never-sieze the cam, and shaft, and the rail slider. That will keep it moving for the next 50 years, if there isn't any calcium in the rim.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 28, 2011

STOP YOU NEVER USE A TOUCH ON WHEELS WITH TIRES ON THEM UNLESS YOU WANT TO DIE {{{{{{THEY CAN AND WILL BLOW UP}}}}}}} check out YouTube on tire blow ups

Phil Tibbetts · Jul 28, 2011

Bolt heads must be buggered up. I got a Craftsman 1/2" square socket at Sears and got them loose on my 180 with a breaker bar. Kano Kroil is the best penetrating oil I have found. If you can give the bolt head a good solid blow or 2 with a hammer it will help break them free.

gbs · Jul 28, 2011

don't try to much force on that square shaft and break it off ,might be hard to replace ,best to remove from rim as suggested before, free up then reinstall

Mike in Mn. · Jul 28, 2011

Have loosed many, they can be so rusted you will never get them loose on the tractor with a wrench. Take the nuts off all the holders and pry the rim and tire off the center, as was mentioned do not use a torch on a wheel with a tire on it!!! Clamp them in a big vice, remove the snap ring or be careful not to melt it and heat, heat and heat some more, take a blacksmith hammer and drive the pin back and forth some and you will finally get them to move. Clean and lube and reassemble. Do not get too wild with a wrench and cheater, you will twist the square off. If you break them, they are the same as an Allis Chalmers WD, which are way more common and available, only difference the Allis have a hex instead of a square. Chuck 41 might have a factory wrench for sale.

Mike in Mn. · Jul 28, 2011

Heat will not hurt them!!

Vineyard_65 · Jul 28, 2011

Thanks Phil,
I'll try a 1/2" pipe plug socket from Sear, but I can tell you that it's really hard to get 1/2" open wrench over the end I'm not petite.

Anyhow, here's pic of the wheel and nuts to make sure we are all talking about the same thing.

There is SOME rust but not a ton. Previous owner had repainted the tractor with rattle cans.

Thanks All!

Vineyard_65 · Jul 29, 2011

Thanks for the warning. I plan to head it. In the mean time I"m soaking the bolts with PB Blaster and hoping to find a socket which will fit, before I have to go nuclear with a torch.

Vineyard_65 · Jul 29, 2011

Thanks,
Picked up some PB Blaster last night at Carqest and sprayed the bolt on both sides.

Going to try hit Sears tonight on way home for 1/2"
pipe plug socket. Looks I will need to file the sides to get it fit on.

-sb

Vineyard_65 · Jul 29, 2011

Thanks, Mike,

I don't have have an Oxy Acet setup yet, just mig and propane torch to sweat copper pipes.

Might try propane if the PB Blaster and socket don't do it.

-sb

300winchester · Jul 29, 2011

Equal mixture of Acetone and ATF

jogl · Jul 29, 2011

You would, of course, not want to heat the rim. As I said get the BOLTS :roll: good and hot.

The older I get the faster I go for the hot wrench to remove stuck fasteners.

JP.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 30, 2011

Mike in MN has it right, they need to be totally taken apart, cleaned up and put back together with never sieze.

pea_grower · Aug 4, 2011

Just made a tool for the operation. Bought two old sockets (one deep), and welded them together. Took a three-cornered file to knock the rust and burs out of the deep end (it will slide on the square all the way) and put a breakover on the other end. Works pretty good, even with a sloppy welding job.

Advice for UNSTICKING old bolts on Massey *Spin-Out Rims*

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Advice for UNSTICKING old bolts on Massey Spin-Out Rims