MF 35 rear axle seal

garymck · Jun 30, 2010

I have Big Dean's CD on the repair of the outer axle seal and the process seems fairly simple and straightforward. I have read previous comments in this forum. Really how difficult is it for a handyman to do this and how long should it take? I assume one should also drain the rear oil before starting the process. Can one do this by oneself? I hate starting a project & then wishing I had left it alone. Thanks

Masseynut(Australia) · Jun 30, 2010

Depends which seal you are about to replace. The inner axle seal is relatively easy to replace, where as the outer seal will require the bearing "carrier" to be "pressed" off the shaft to gain access to the outer seal. This usually requires a special "jig", as, once the lock collar has been removed, the bearing can require up to thirty tons to remove from the shaft. I don"t know what method "Big Dean" recommends for such a job, but in my experience, a good sized hydraulic press, and a stepped "jig" get the job done quickly.
My two cents worth,
Evan.

garymck · Jun 30, 2010

Thanks. The seal I am replacing is the one that fits in the axle housing. I note that some references call it the inner and some the outer seal and this confuses me. In any case, I do not intend to replace the seal on the axle shaft unless it appears faulty too when I disassemble.

Brant Steele · Jun 30, 2010

I just replaced the inner one on my TO 35. The hardest part was removing the 2 slotted bolts that hold the drum on. I had to use an easy-out to get them out and replaced them with a hex head screw. It will take 2 people to put the wheel and tire back on. Other than that it was a simple process. Be sure to clean the drum and shoes up real good, pack the bearings and lubricate the star adjustment for the brakes while you have it broke down.

garymck · Jun 30, 2010

Thanks to everyone so far. Keep the advise coming!

garymck · Jun 30, 2010

That should be "advice" not "advise"

supergrumpy · Jun 30, 2010

here is what I learned doing mine:

tilt leaking side up and block, no need to drain
clean all the crud off GOOD before you start
loaded tires are heavy and no fun at all when they fall over
good time to replace worn brakes or check corners of expander for wear
wirebrush inner ring of nuts then soak in PB blaster to minimize studs coming out
axle is very stout and heavy
keep track of any shims in there
H/F sells neat seal removal tool with handle, rocks the seal right out = real slick item
CRC brake cleaner good for cleaning oil off
pack some grease into outer bearing before you reassemble, you will see the "outer" seal inside there
use anti-sieze

other may likely add to this

Laurence Lombard · Jun 30, 2010

My experience seems to agree with what Masseynut says in his post. By outer seal I understand the one that when it leaks oil ends up on the brake linings and are consequently rendered useless. There is a collar of sorts that needs to be pulled off before you can access/replace the seal. The bloke at the workshop had a tool that was supposed to pull it off - there was much swearing involved and I think he heated it with a gas flame to get it off. Then after changing the seal the same collar (or was it another one?) was heat-shrunk back on. I'm not a mechanic, so my experience might be somewhat shaky. I might also add that I was much braver re attempting stuff when I was younger and more fearless!

phil(va) · Jun 30, 2010

If you keep it upright, and if you are agile, you can take the wheel and tire off and put it back on by yourself. Put a slick piece of linoleum under it when you put it on and that will allow you to slip it just enough to line up the studs. It is hell to turn on concrete. Get one nut on and you are in good shape. Keep kids and pets out of the way and if it falls, let it go. If you decide to take the axle out to get the other seal replaced, just take the whole axle to a machine shop and have them do it. Much easier, not expensive, doesn't require a designated cusser or for you to rent a press. If I'm going in there, I do both seals. If you take the axle out, as one post said, keep up with the shims. When you reinstall, with both wheels jacked, turn one wheel and the other one should turn opposite way if shimmed right. If it turns same way, too tight. Doesn't turn, too loose. Sometimes getting the two screws out of the drum is hardest part. As mentioned, use anti seize when reinstalling them.

garymck · Jul 1, 2010

Thanks to everyone who have given valuable advice on this matter.

spawneydave · May 1, 2011

Thanks for this post, I need to replace both seals on my fergie back axles as the brakes are soaked & have been looking at the service manual which shows a special tool being used to drill & split the collar, I think I will take the advice & find a workshop that will do the job for me

MF 35 rear axle seal

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