Hello John,
Calling Doctor P!!!
This looks like an adjustment problem. With this type of steering the greatest efficiency is obtained when the amount of wear in all components is negligible. The principal areas of wear to check are;
Steering box; end float on the cross shaft when on the 'high spot'
Steering box drop arm; Ensure that the arm is tight on the spline.
Ball joints; Check for play.
Upper PAS arm; Ensure that there is no 'rocking' on the main shaft.
Barrel pins; Ensure that there is absolutely minimal play in the barrel ends/spool yoke and arm end.
Cylinder rod anchor pin. Minimal push/pull wear is acceptable but not up and down movement (see photo)
Main shaft; A greasing point that is frequently forgotten will lead to shaft and bush wear particularly at the bottom.
If all these points are in good condition then you can procede with the adjustment. I suspect that you might not be making the adjustment correctly.
Slacken the 1 1/8 spanner size nut and screw the tapered pin down until it bottoms and and all movement of the upper arm is lost. Adjust the barrel until the pins can just be fitted. Don't split-pin yet. Note the position of the taper pin slot and unscrew it SEVEN turns. This is the initial adjustment. Nip the big nut. Have an assistant rock the steering wheel back and forth.
The play that you have created should result in movement of the spool valve on the cylinder. Movement should be equal in both directions at approx 1/16". When the steering wheel is turned to the right check that you have spool movement and not the end of the rod lifting in the casting.
If you have good spool movement then start up and test. As mentioned this is an initial adjustment. If you think it could be better you can unscrew the taper pin in 1/4 turn steps but only until you have easy steering. Go too far and you will lose it! If it is still difficult one way then look very closely at the points above there will be wear there somewhere still.
The more play you can take out, the more efficient it will be.
The barrel ends, yoke and arm can be drilled out and larger pins fitted...not a job for a hand held drill.
Play in the rod end can be taken out by making a shim to suit.
Main shaft and/or bushes should be replaced but will need to be reamed or machined in place using the MF reamer.
Let us know how you get on.
DavidP, South Wales