John Deere M Series Tractor

Rjmurphy1

New User
Looking to re-wire my JD -M tractor. To do that I need to remove the battery box to get at the ignition/light
switch.

Any advice before I start on best practices on getting that box out.

Thanks,
Rick
 
Take your time. Lots of time the bolts are corroded due to battery acid etc, My may need some Kroil and need to work the bolts back and forth as they loosen. Just dont get in a hurry and twist off anything. A pair of good vice grips will be an asset if the bolt heads are too damaged to put a wrench or socket on. You can also use some heat but for safety I'd pull the gas tank before I put any kind of torch in that area.
 
Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Battery Box Assembly[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

cvphoto91428.jpg


Note the cap screws (Key 1) for the cover (Key 10).

These three cap screws can be removed with a socket wrench.

Note the cap screws (Key 1) for the toolbox (Key 3).

These three cap screws can be removed with a box/open end wrench.

Note the two cap screws (Key 4) for the toolbox (Key 3).

These two cap screws located in the bottom of the toolbox can be removed with a socket wrench.

Take a look at the photos below.

cvphoto91429.jpg


cvphoto91430.jpg


Hope this helps.
 
330 Standard,

Your advice was prescient.. I soaked each of the bolts with Seafoam (my new go to product) and used it during the extraction. I did take my time with these as I just had the experience of snapping a few when trying to get the fuel tank off. Fortunately, there was enough to grip and eventually get the shaft out.

First impression is that I will replace the ignition/light switch, possibly the alternator gauge and maybe the cut off relay (if I can find one) then ret-wire the entire tractor. Hopefully, that will get the old girl working again and me cutting the 20 acres of overgrown pasture.

Thank you for your advice and support.
 
Be aware that the M switch is unique. Most of the switches you see advertised will claim to work on a 40, 320, 420 as well. They will not work on your M without getting rid of the cut out and changing the wiring to a 40 style. It is expensive from Deere. If your switch and cut out are good I would keep them.
 
Agri-Service in NY will get you everything you need. I have rewired the MT I had, an LA, 40, 1010 and a 2440 with their wiring kits and parts. The quality is very good, craftsmanship is good and you can call them, get a person on the phone if you have any issues, and they will take some time to speak with you and try and help you figure out the problem. They spent about half an hour on the phone with me getting my 40 set up with an alternator conversion because what was on the tractor was cobbed and not working at all.
 

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