1010 Gas Rebuild

Posted some of this on the main for advise, but to continue a topic I opened a month or so ago, decided to follow Old's advice and rebuild the motor right. Got the crankshaft out and up with me at school--plan on getting it ground. I *think* it needs to be ground, not just polished, but maybe y'all can give me a better opinion with the pictures. I do have a micrometer and can measure the journals but I don't know what they're supposed to be. Been quite an adventure so far, especially when the engine stand rotated before we were ready!

Plan as of now is to just do the mains, rods, and cam bearings right now. I really can't afford to do everything in 1 go, so I figured do the bearings this year, wait another year or 2, then do the cylinders and head. Reason for rebuild was low oil pressure, but I've never had any indications of head problems or compression problems, so I figure with as few hours as I put on it, it'll get by until I have enough capital to fix the rest of it. Manual says I can do the head and cylinders w/out splitting it again so thats what I plan to do. Let me know if I'm crazy. Any advice anyone has going forward is much appreciated.



23300.jpg
23301.jpg
23302.jpg
23303.jpg
23304.jpg
23305.jpg
23306.jpg
 
I-T manual gives you those spec on page 3 I know that for sure since I just looked. LOL I would at the very least since you have it opened up is do the sleeve seal O-rings. And also maybe hone and re-ring it
 
Are the bearings full groove or half groove? The later 1010's had a half groove bearing which increased the oil pressure.

Without measuring the crank and unless it is a mile out of where it needs to be, I would not touch it.
 
I do hope you stamped the main and rod caps to identify location and direction for putting it back together.
They are not mix and match meaning if not marked the block would have to be line bored and the rods checked and or resized for your plan to work.

Do not buy bearings yet as the amount required if any to be ground from the crank will determine what bearings you will need.

Take your time and make sure everything is spotless clean, then clean it again, all it takes is one little speck to wipe out your new bearings and or crank.

Not impossible but you will need at least 6 hands to get that crank back in without a rod bolt scratching it.

If you do not have a torque wrench now is the time to buy one.

Did I mention everything must be spotless clean.

Buy some proper engine assembly lube for use when putting it back together.

It would be wise to install a new oil pump now.

Have the cam measured/checked while you have it out.

Cam lifters need to go back on the same lobe they were removed from.

Did I mention everything must be spotless.

Would be easier and better in the long run if you could do everything now that the engine is out, I have had good luck doing band aid part jobs before to get by but remember the odds of doing a part job biting you in the butt are high.

Oh yeah one last note make sure everything is spotless clean.
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:47 09/14/18)


Not impossible but you will need at least 6 hands to get that crank back in without a rod bolt scratching it.


They sell rod bolt rubber covers that work well protecting the crank.
 

Ok I had a micrometer and measured the journals.

Per the service manual, the Mains should be: 2.9974 to 2.9984
Per the service manual, the Rods should be: 2.3085 to 2.3095

These are measured from front no 1. cylinder to no. 4

Main 1: 2.986
Main 2: 2.986
Main 3: 2.982

Rod 1: 2.290
Rod 2: 2.300
Rod 3: 2.290
Rod 4: 2.300

I *think* the bearings are half groove, but I'm not sure and can't get out to look at it right now (we're in the hurricane at the moment).
 

Bumping this back up 2 ask 2 questions.

1. are the specs I posted above too out to get turned or can I get by with just new bearings or something in the middle?

2. Would I be better off purchasing a combine with a 145 engine in it that bolts in? Found one a state over for 1000 that runs...
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:44 09/19/18)
Bumping this back up 2 ask 2 questions.

1. are the specs I posted above too out to get turned or can I get by with just new bearings or something in the middle?

2. Would I be better off purchasing a combine with a 145 engine in it that bolts in? Found one a state over for 1000 that runs...

How any hours a year and how hard do you really use the old girl? Put new standard bearings in and run it.
How many old tractors and engines are out there that has not been touched in thousands of hours that are still pulling there weight.
Yes, in a perfect world it should be turned / replaced. Save your money for another project.
Just my opinion.
 
I'd say no more than 50 hours per year right now. Could that go up as I get older? Sure. But I do worry that if I just stick standards in there I'll be rebuilding it again in 20 years (or less...). Rather do it right now and do it right.

Only reason I'm asking about the combine engine is cause I've got the 115 gas, which seems to have less parts availability. Thought if I switched to a 145 I'd have an easier time down the road, but that would be the 2nd replacement engine I'd put in this tractor...
 
(quoted from post at 23:46:16 09/19/18) I'd say no more than 50 hours per year right now. Could that go up as I get older? Sure. But I do worry that if I just stick standards in there I'll be rebuilding it again in 20 years (or less...). Rather do it right now and do it right.

Only reason I'm asking about the combine engine is cause I've got the 115 gas, which seems to have less parts availability. Thought if I switched to a 145 I'd have an easier time down the road, but that would be the 2nd replacement engine I'd put in this tractor...


There is a new old stock 1010 crank listed on eBay right now. I think it’s a better buy then buying a different engine without known it history
 
Do NOT reassemble with standard bearings!

According to your numbers the main journals have already been ground .010" undersize.

If the numbers are accurate it appears that you have 2 different grinds on the rod journals(.010" & .020") which is rare but not completely unheard of.

If you do plan on using this crank you'll need to ensure that you get the correct size bearings for the job & at an absolute bare minimum confirm clearances during assembly with plasti-gage.

This particular type of scenario has cost many engines over the years.......


(quoted from post at 11:02:44 09/19/18)
Bumping this back up 2 ask 2 questions.

1. are the specs I posted above too out to get turned or can I get by with just new bearings or something in the middle?

2. Would I be better off purchasing a combine with a 145 engine in it that bolts in? Found one a state over for 1000 that runs...
 

Uh-oh...

Max bearings I can get for this crank are .020 over. The journals are scored up pretty bad and probably need turning again...so...

Sounds like I might be buying a combine in the near future. Be cheaper than buying another crank off ebay...
 
You could take the crank to an engine machine shop & have them double check the measurements & give their assessment on whether the crank will "clean up" with a polish to the journals that are already ground .020" & get a quote to grind the remaining journals to .020"

Unless you know the condition of the crank in the combine / machine you plan to buy or have an agreement with the seller for reimburesment if the crank is not salvageable you may very well be in the hole further........


(quoted from post at 02:53:18 09/21/18)
Uh-oh...

Max bearings I can get for this crank are .020 over. The journals are scored up pretty bad and probably need turning again...so...

Sounds like I might be buying a combine in the near future. Be cheaper than buying another crank off ebay...
 
Oh no, I didn't mean buy the combine motor for the crank. I would buy a running combine then take the engine from that and bolt it into my tractor. I get more horsepower with the 145 and better parts availability. I wouldn't go the combine route unless I could see it running in person.
 
I see now, makes sense......LOL


(quoted from post at 08:44:35 09/21/18) Oh no, I didn't mean buy the combine motor for the crank. I would buy a running combine then take the engine from that and bolt it into my tractor. I get more horsepower with the 145 and better parts availability. I wouldn't go the combine route unless I could see it running in person.
 
(quoted from post at 12:16:27 09/19/18)
(quoted from post at 19:02:44 09/19/18)
Bumping this back up 2 ask 2 questions.

1. are the specs I posted above too out to get turned or can I get by with just new bearings or something in the middle?

2. Would I be better off purchasing a combine with a 145 engine in it that bolts in? Found one a state over for 1000 that runs...

How any hours a year and how hard do you really use the old girl? Put new standard bearings in and run it.
How many old tractors and engines are out there that has not been touched in thousands of hours that are still pulling there weight.
Yes, in a perfect world it should be turned / replaced. Save your money for another project.
Just my opinion.
Any info on rod cap torque values
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top