John Deere B clutch problem

pmarkel

Member
The hand clutch on my B felt a bit loose so I tried to tighten her up a bit. The tractor has been used in row crop cultivation regularly this summer without incident. However, when I tightened eact slotted nut a little the clutch seemed to get worse-- no snap or positive engagement. I loosened each and repeated with similar issues. Finally I took off the adjusting disk and found the first facing had a large break in it. Would this alone keep me from getting a good tight clutch? Also could someone please explain how to check approximate endplay without fancy tools. I understand too much endplay hinders clutch engagement? And not this probably makes much difference but it seems like I have quite some gap between the clutch drum and housing. Thanks,

Pete
 
21460.jpg
 
Sounds like its time to rebuild the clutch. Just did my 530 which is basicly the same as a B. Should be a diagram in the ops manual. Hope you have one. I replaced the 3 disks, one was 2 sided, the floating and fixed disk. You will nned a puller to remove the fixed disk. Around $350 total cost. IMPORTANT: Line up the marks on the fixed disk and crank shaft when re assembling. the marks are an upright V and reversed V. The points on the V line up. Or the marks may be different but must line up. Adjust according to ops or service manual. This forum was a great help for success.
 
(quoted from post at 05:24:05 08/14/18 - The hand clutch on my B felt a bit loose so I tried to tighten her up a bit. The tractor has been used in row crop cultivation regularly this summer without incident. However, when I tightened eact slotted nut a little the clutch seemed to get worse-- no snap or positive engagement. I loosened each and repeated with similar issues. Finally I took off the adjusting disk and found the first facing had a large break in it. Would this alone keep me from getting a good tight clutch?
There will never be a single reason for the spongy snap over clutch because so many things wrong can do that too, but a cracked outer disk is certainly not helping the issue any at all. A new one with no other inputs should be a noticeable improvement. It could range from barely to night and day due to the stack up of other issues. Of course you can try this first without tearing it all apart to see if you can wait for a better time slot for those kinds of in depth, torn all apart for weeks on end repairs, and even if such repairs are in order.

(quoted from post at 05:24:05 08/14/18 -Also could someone please explain how to check approximate endplay without fancy tools.
You can only see egregious end play - you will need a $30 harbor freight dial indicator to set it right. Engage the clutch from the tractor seat. Pull the handle back but never hard enough to disengage the clutch. Push forward again after learning how hard you can pull back without disengaging the clutch. Repeat rapidly while locking your eyes upon the flywheel. If you can see the flywheel move side to side you have egregious end play. I have operated some with at least 3/8 inch here and no harm, no foul. It should be .015 and you can't see that from the tractor seat.

(quoted from post at 05:24:05 08/14/18 -
I understand too much endplay hinders clutch engagement?
Maybe at one inch or better, but I didn't notice a thing at 3/8 inch. Other than the flywheel and clutch pulley going back and forth that is, I certainly did notice that. Was told that it just needed some work for some other day, for now just drive it. So I'd like to suggest that your understanding comes from advice from those that mean well but use reasons that aren't really based in reality so much as 'the proper thing to do'. It certainly is the proper thing to do, your rod bearings will love you for it. But your clutch just don't care very much at all.

(quoted from post at 05:24:05 08/14/18 -
And not this probably makes much difference but it seems like I have quite some gap between the clutch drum and housing.
It does seem like at least a quarter inch extra there but not sure how it got there so not sure how to take some of that out of there. So dunno is the short answer before stating that there is nothing commonly wrong that does that, that I'm aware of. I suppose a clutch driver with extensive clearance under the retaining washer could account for it, but I'm not so eager to say fix it - you may need that clearance some other day.
 
Thanks for the advice Lee. I took the driver off today but the back facing was stuck hard to the back of the drum. In the process of getting it off I put a groove in the back of the wall which made me feel like a real idiot. If I smooth out any burs will that affect the new facing? I ordered new facings and the bonded disc but figured I would wait to see how she feels before ordering clutch dogs and toggles. Or am I kidding myself and should just bite the bullet and put all new guts in? She's a work tractor and I tend to probably skimp on rebuilds. Thanks,

Pete
21490.jpg
21491.jpg
21492.jpg
 
If there is nothing visibly wrong with the other parts then I don't see a reason for all new. What you've outlined here to do is about exactly how I would proceed too. Stuck you say? I'll bet that had something to with the feel of that clutch. For goodness sake don't forget to grease that roller bearing while you are in there. Deburr the gouge and it is what it is, I'm pretty sure it will work fine too. Live and learn on the idiot deal, if only I could count high enough I could say how many times you described me there. Nice pictures, thanks for the look around in there.
 
Thanks again. In order to grease the roller bearing do I need to take the clutch apart further? I just have it apart back to the drum but haven't removed the fork and pulled the whole unit. Thanks,

Pete
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top