JD 4020 24volt generator

This message is a reply to an archived post by Bob on July 06, 2009 at 21:38:54.
The original subject was "Re: JD 4020 24volt generator".

IS there a way to test between the black and white wires that go to the little studs on the generator?

I think I might have a wiring issue

Black wire at generator "F" terminal runs through short section of harness to "F" terminal on voltage regulator.

White wire at generator "A1" is the (-) charging current output and runs through the same short section of harness to the voltage regulator's "GEN" terminal.

So are you wanting to check continuity of those two (short) wires, or voltage, or???

I am trying to get familiar with this system and determine if my generator works.

The starter was just rebuilt, so going to 12 volt would be kind of pricey.

Is there a 24 volt alternator kit?

Trying to weigh my options. I would like to just do away with the generator and have an alternator with built in regulator.

30 some years ago I bought a 12 volt conversion kit for the 4010 diesel I had then.

The starter was out, so I needed a starter anyway. Seems like we dealt with the local rebuilder on that. He was reasonable on everything anyway.

Seems like he just rebuilt the 24 volt starter to be 12 volt and had an alternator package. I hated when he retired.

The generator light is on. I haven't tried exciting it yet. I'm not even sure the charging wires are hooked up.

You would need a 24 Volt isolated ground alternator.

Typically, what's readily available today is the "one-wire" versions, so you lose functionality of the charge warning light.

I did one a year ago, and made a simple internal "mod" to the "one wire" alternator and brought out an extra wire to allow the light to function.

It has worked well.

It's back in the shop, I am just finishing it up from a split for powershift PTO clutch repair.

For now, if you are going to troubleshoot the generator charging system, I have you have a factory service manual at hand.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to polarize the generator.

ASSUMING the voltage regulator is hooked up properly, momentarily jumper form the "BATT" terminal to the "GEN" terminal on the voltage regulator.

Email me for more info, if you'd like, [email protected]

Thank you much. It's going to be a few days before I get back to the 4010

I was thinking maybe an amp gauge and voltage meter would work and eliminate the light

Here's a couple of photos of the installation I did on a 4020. Red wire exiting alternator is my conversion (simple) allowing the original generator warning light to function.

<img src = "http://oi67.tinypic.com/70dnrn.jpg">

<img src = "http://oi63.tinypic.com/xnz3ex.jpg">

Thank you much.

That's my project for the day!

I used a 70 amp alternator. I am guessing the generator was something like 20 amps?

So I am assuming beefing up the wiring would be a good thing to do.

My 1963 John Deere 4010 diesel wide front, dual remotes, did not have the circuit breaker upgrade. From pictures I saw, they mounted on a plate attached to the solenoid.

I was going to run a new brown and blue wire from the alternator, straight to the solenoid using at least #8 wire - I think I have some 6 or 4 on hand, so it might be bigger.

I am going to use 60 amp mountable fuse holders and fuses mounted on the old regulator plate.

I am also going to add circuit breakers to the existing brown and blue wires at the alternator and the solenoid

I keep reading about a ground wire that comes off one of the batteries and goes someplace. I do not have such a wire.

I have seen posts like this, here and elsewhere on the Wide Wide World of the internet. - "Check or replace the small ground wire on the left hand battery.Could have a slow blow fuse in a fuse holder that is blown."

I do not know which battery is right hand or left hand. The batteries are mounted in one box, off the frame, just in front of the starter

There was a small white wire that went through the same hole as the solenoid wires, but was not taped up with the blue brown and yellow wires where they run through the hole to the dash.

The wire had been pulled on and the female spade connector was snugged up against the grommet. I was able to jiggle it around some to get it out and see the female spade connector on the end. I could not see anyplace it would have plugged into.

The instructions with my alternator said to change the wire to the generator light from negative to positive.

I have a 1963 John Deere 4010 diesel 24 volt with 70 amp alternator

I found this schematic that shows a white wire, But I can not tell where it goes

https://f01.justanswer.com/ref/http_jdpc.deere.com/pimages/R926/R9261__________UN01JAN94.gif

Is your 4010 set up like the schematic you posted, with individual ground wires from each battery to the chassis, or has it been changed so there's a battery cable between the two batteries, this updated system requires the wire, fusible link, or fuse from that battery cable to the chassis, the original system doesn't because of the individual ground wires to the chassis?
The white wire with the solenoid wiring is unused, you can see it's other end hanging free near the key switch wiring.

Also, there's a (separate) white wire at the generator.

The white wire at the generator is simply a short wire connecting the "A1" on the generator to the "GEN" terminal on the regulator, it doesn't go any farther than that. A black wire is also connected to the "GEN" terminal at the regulator, and runs to the generator indicator lamp "idiot light".

Is the alternator you have an "isolated ground" alternator (meaning the (-) terminal isolated from the frame of the alternator, as well as the (+) terminal?

Also, you will likely need a resistor in series with the alternator warning light, as the bulb is a 12 Volt. The DEERE part number for the resistor they used is R39550, IIRC, the value is between 50 and 60 Ohms. (Older units had a resistor on the switch, newer units used a separate resistor AT the warning light.)

I added battery terminal polarity markings to the diagram you linked. As it left the factory, the (-) terminal of the RH battery is connected to the chassis, and the (+) terminal of the LH battery is connected to the chassis.

<img src = "http://oi66.tinypic.com/311ql9l.jpg">

Next photo shows the later system with a cable between the two batteries and a wire to the chassis at the LH battery (Key #30). Your 4010 MAY have been updated to this system.

<img src = "http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/R127/R12751_________UN01JAN94.gif">

On my tractor I have a positive cable from one battery and the negative cable from the other battery bolted to the frame together. as the schematic you marked the terminal polarities on

The other cable from one battery goes to the starter and the other cable from the other battery goes to the solenoid.

There is a jumper wire from the brown wire on the solenoid to the battery cable on the starter.

The 24 volt alternator is isolated ground.

Thank you very much

1963 John Deere 4010 Diesel wide front

What is this by the ignition switch with the yellow wire going to it?

Is this a fuse holder for the lights?



[/img]

(quoted from post at 08:42:07 09/03/18) 1963 John Deere 4010 Diesel wide front

What is this by the ignition switch with the yellow wire going to it?

Is this a fuse holder for the lights?

[/img]

Click to expand...

It is a resistor for dimming the headlights when the switch is set to "DIM".

Part #AR27238, RESISTOR, NLA from DEERE.

Should be a BLACK and a YELLOW wire connected to it.

(quoted from post at 08:15:14 08/29/18) I have a 1963 John Deere 4010 diesel 24 volt with 70 amp alternator

I found this schematic that shows a white wire, But I can not tell where it goes

https://f01.justanswer.com/ref/http_jdpc.deere.com/pimages/R926/R9261__________UN01JAN94.gif

Click to expand...

This kit by Select Parts Sioux City Ia. 1-800-535-8035, is NOT recommended. The bracket they send does not work on the 4010. I had to make my own bracket.

The nut on the alternator is very similar to The amazon 24 volt alternator on Amazon. Only 70 amp instead of 50.

When mounted so the pulley is inline, The fan blade hits the nut and threaded shaft that holds the pulley on the alternator by about 5/16"

I am going to have to address that issue today. either by trimming the bolt and nut back or by spacing the fan out. Or a combination of the 2.

I really hate when people sell a kit and it turns out to be total garbage.