1963 John deere 4010 diesel serial 36381

1963 John deere 4010 diesel serial 36381

I've been looking all morning - pretty sad, I know,

For where to install the A-R27173 Filter Element; Stroke Control Valve.

In the paper I got from John Deere there was an arrow pointing to behind the left front screen, by the air filter.

It's in the main (front) hydraulic pump, Key# 17.

<img src = "http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/RP37/RP3716_________UN01JAN94.gif">

It's not normal to change them,, and "Very" difficult to do while the pump is on the tractor,,you will have oil in your arm pits,,and you will be wondering where part #16 goes,, if you even see it fall out,,and it will fall out,,my advice is don't do it...

(quoted from post at 12:30:39 07/22/18) It's not normal to change them,, and "Very" difficult to do while the pump is on the tractor,,you will have oil in your arm pits,,and you will be wondering where part #16 goes,, if you even see it fall out,,and it will fall out,,my advice is don't do it...

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Thank you very much for the advice. I will not touch it

It was on a paper I got from John Deere. Would it be wise to have an experienced tech change it out?

The tractor has about 4400 hours if the hour meter is correct. From what I can tell the tractor hasn't suffered from over maintenance.

Thanks

I change them when I re-seal a pump,,90% of the time they are clean..don't worry about it..

(quoted from post at 15:48:24 07/22/18) I change them when I re-seal a pump,,90% of the time they are clean..don't worry about it..

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Thanks for the advice. Now I have anew issue.

i JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010 Diesel Syncro transmission.

I used a John Deere filter and cleaned the screen behind the square plug.

When I started it, after adding 10 gallons , it was squealing and the 3 point was jerky. I shut it off and added another gallon to top it off. It is still noisy and the 3 point is jerky.

I used Amsoil Tractor Hydraulic Transmission oil - I had it here - It's what I have always used in my 1975 Ford Backhoe.

Is there anything I did wrong? Is there anything more to changing the hydraulic fluid than dumping it, changing the filter, cleaning the screen and refilling?

I will suggest to cycle the 3 pt hitch &amp; steering several times to purge any air out that might have got in hyd system. I'll also recommend checking hyd pressure by plugging a gauge in rear breakaway coupler. Pressure should be 2250 psi.

(quoted from post at 04:34:40 07/23/18)
I will suggest to cycle the 3 pt hitch &amp; steering several times to purge any air out that might have got in hyd system. I'll also recommend checking hyd pressure by plugging a gauge in rear breakaway coupler. Pressure should be 2250 psi.

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Do I want to do that at idle or revved up a bit?

Is there a place IO can find the schematic with next page that has the part numbers and description?

Thank you much

(quoted from post at 10:16:17 07/23/18)

Do I want to do that at idle or revved up a bit?

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1200 engine rpm's with foot ""not on clutch pedal""

I never messed with the little screen

1963 John Deere 4010 Diesel wide front, 24 volt

I believe I have an update to a 4020 style hydraulic pump coupler. The book for my tractor, shows a flat plate assembly.

Still messing with this. I have a whine from near the hydraulic pump - unless the lever is shoved all the way up. Then it makes no noise,

It has not hardly been ran and has not been used since I changed the fluids.

I have the aluminum 4020 Coupler. It was suggested that the noise might be from the coupler. I got it apart - not sure I can get it back together. The rubbers looked good to me.

Is there anything else I should check before putting it back together?

When I turn the pump shaft by hand - about 1/4 turn, it makes a noise. Should it be almost silent when turning by hand?

I've been looking for mechanic that knows these tractors that makes house calls. Striking out so far. If anybody know one that would travel to L'Erable, Illinois, let me know.

What is the best position to have the coupler in to get it back together or apart again if needed?

I had to start loosening one bolt, turn it and loosen the other. Even doing this, I am wondering if there is a preferred starting and ending position.

I was looking for instructions in the book and online, came up empty handed.

What are the torque specs for the 3/8 bolts in the aluminum coupler? I came up with 20 ft lbs for those and 35 ft lbs for the 2 bolts that hold the piece to the hydraulic pump input shaft

(quoted from post at 12:19:21 07/22/18) It's in the main (front) hydraulic pump, Key# 17.

&lt;img src = "http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/RP37/RP3716_________UN01JAN94.gif"&gt;

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Is #32 toward the rear of the tractor and #9 on the top of the pump?

I believe something is not assembled correctly on this tractor.
I thought I was removing plug #21 to check the screen out the bottom of the tractor and found it to actually be plug #9. #11 feel out when I took the plug out. From what everybody told me, #9n should have been on the top of the pump

Are there any good instructions for removing the front hydraulic pump? We removed the front axle And still can not figure it out.

It seems the service manual skipped a bunch of steps. It says loosen the splined coupler, detach 3 lines, Remove 4 mounting bolts and slide the pump forward.

We do not see enough room to slide the pump forward.

Tomorrow our plan is to remove the fuel tank and everything from the top and see what we can figure out

Any suggestions or links would be appreciated