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Crankcase Cleaning

J

JDMTIL

Member
I had a blown head gasket on my MT a few months back. All fixed now, no white smoke and coolant level staying the same. I've changed the oil a couple times but it still seems to get kinda milky. I thought it would all eventually work itself out. A friend told me I should of put a gallon of diesel in the crankcase and ran it for a minute or two before adding the new oil.

Not sure if that's a good idea. Looking to see what others do. Thanks
 
The original manual for my 420 says to use kerosene and run it then
drain it . You could drain some oil and put some diesel in and run it
for few minutes then drain the oil
 
Bad idea from the days when cheap non
detergent oil was used and never changed.
If the head looked like a tarpit when you
pulled it it wouldn't be a terrible idea
though.

Make sure the breather cap is clean, get it
hot and keep it that way to get rid of
moisture.

Make sure you aren't gaining milky oil from
the Tom pump in the engine.
 
The head looked good, nice and shiny. I had it magnafluxed. Tractor runs like a champ. I was kinda surprised to see how milky the oil still looked after the third oil change (done one a month). Each time was slightly less milky. Will it eventually burn/work its way out?

Both manuals I have says five quarts with an oil change but it always shows full at four. I know there is still a quart the engine and lines. I wondered if there would be a way to force it all out to get rid of the water...does that make any sense?
 

I just realized you mean Touch O Matic...sorry. I know they're notorious for letting oil from the hydraulic system into the engine but how can water get in though that pump?
 
If the Tom oil isn't changed regularly most
often it collect moisture.

The oil drains out of the filter when shut
down. With a new filter and 5 quart's of
oil it will be over full till you crank it
up and correct a few minutes after you shut
down. If the pan is bent it will still show
overfull.

The more you run it the hotter it gets and
the more moisture evaporates. That's the
only way to get rid of the moisture.
 
why not just go buy a new oil pan gasket and drop the pan.
clean it spotless and with new gasket put it pack up and on.
its actually fairly easy job to do.
this way you eliminate that moisture problem you think you have in the pan.
over the years there is lots of sludge and moisture trapped in the pan bottom
you will be surprised when you take it off.
i just did one a month ago.
just a suggestion. you will spend all kinds of time trying to flush and the unknown damage you
can do to the crank bearings with diesel .
do it once and take the pan off and clean.
if you still get moisture in engine like M-MAN says the hydraulic pump might be contaminating your engine oil
 
Thanks everyone. I didn't even consider dropping the pan route. Maybe I should change the hydraulic oil as well. How big of a job is that? Does the system have to be primed afterwards?
 
Dropping the pan is a great idea & while your at it, pop the caps off of the rods & mains & have a peek at the bearings. Assuming that you're running antifreeze in your coolant & it is indeed coolant in the crankcase, you'll want to make sure the shells have not been damaged.....

(quoted from post at 12:21:20 07/18/18) Thanks everyone. I didn't even consider dropping the pan route. Maybe I should change the hydraulic oil as well. How big of a job is that? Does the system have to be primed afterwards?
Click to expand...
 
Just remove the plug at the bottom rear of
the rockshaft below the petcock and let it
drain. You should get about 2/3 of it. The
front lines and pump won't drain. Use 20 or
30 wt non detergent oil. It works better
and leaks less.
 
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