John Deere 60 not starting - elec issue

I have a 1954 JD 60 converted to negative ground with and alternator, also changed it to an electric ignition & matching coil. It has been running well in this configuration for 6+ years. Replaced the battery in Feb this year.

A couple months back I could turn the switch to lights and see there was power, but when I stepped on the foot pedal it wouldn't crank and the battery would drain. figured the starter was messed up, pulled it and check the brushes, they looked good, so I got a spare rebuilt starter and installed it. 60 started up perfect and I used it twice for several hours do some grading with the rear blade, that was 2 weeks ago.

Today I tried to start it and when I turned the switch to lights I heard a quick 'zzt' and nothing - sounded like something shorted - no lights and the starter didn't run when I stepped on the pedal. Battery is fully charged. Checked all the wires and nothing is frayed, exposed or pinched. I thought it might be the switch on the dash, but that shouldn't affect the starter and pedal. Before I started pulling it apart again and replacing stuff I thought I would see what the collective wisdom of the forum thought, maybe give me some pointers on where to look.

Thanks
Clint

That is a simple bad battery cable post connection problem. That noise you heard was the cables trying to work but due to a poor connection it sort of made a frying sound. I would also check the other ends of the battery cables where they go to ground and the starter switch

Where is the ground cable connected? If it's bolted to the battery box that could be your problem. I was reminded of that the hard way on my 50 the other day. A quick way to check that is run a jumper cable from the battery post to a spot on the frame and see if she starts then. If it does, you've found the problem.

Same question as [b:654c4848f0]Rich'sToys[/b:654c4848f0] asked below "[i:654c4848f0]Where is the ground cable connected?[/i:654c4848f0]".

Take a look at the photo below of the [b:654c4848f0]NEGATIVE[/b:654c4848f0] ground cable on "15" one of our 1953 Model 70s.



You might consider attaching the [b:654c4848f0]NEGATIVE[/b:654c4848f0] battery cable at another location to get a better ground connection.

Hope this helps.

James, that's the exact same bolt I used when I relocated the cable on my 50 the other day! Great minds must think alike!

Will Rogers once said "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]A man only learns in two ways, one by reading, and the other by association with smarter people.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

I have benefited from both here on the YT forums.

Clint, did you ever find out what the problem was?

Either way when you get your present problem solved i would highly suggest sometime when you're willing to spend $105 (if you buy from dealer) replace that switch on the dash. I know from experience from mine on my 60 messing up that it was pretty darn deteriorated. I'm surprised it made contact as long as it did.
Arnie

Hey guys, thanks for the suggestions. Battery is grounded to the frame, same bolt as pictured by James. I'm starting to think its the dash switch, that's where the shorting sound is coming from. What I don't understand is how that switch prevents the bendix gear from kicking out and spinning the flywheel.

Had to travel for work and just got back tonight. Tried to start her again tonight - moved the dash switch to lights, good there. advanced the throttle lever, pulled out the choke and stepped on the starter pedal - nothing and the lights went out. She acts like she has no battery power...

Guess I'm replacing the dash switch next.

Thanks
Clint

I would suggest physically removing both cables and cleaning them & the battery posts thoroughly before you spend the $$$ on a switch. Then I would at clean up and retighten the starter terminal end of the positive cable. My guess is you may find an issue with that connection.
Hopefully this helps your problem without hurting your pocketbook...
Carl

Like Carls70 said.