435 round baler twine arms wont go

austinmd

New User
My baler worked fine last year
greased and prepped for the field this year and the twine tie system trips but twine arms wont move
I topped of twine pump fluid
was using power steering fluid and the neighbor pointed out should be using hydraulic fluid per the manual
So day one
twine tie system trips but arms dont move
if I pull on manual trip they move a few inches and then right back
arms will complete a full cycle if I hold the manual trip while they cycle
All five springs are present and seem sturdy
I checked the fluid again and seemed a little low so I added fluid again system would trip at where I have my bale size set
pump stayed engaged and over heated
it boils so hot my plastic dipstick is bumpy from the plastic melting
Day two
replaced filter changed fluid to hydraulic and changed belt
made a bale still no luck
Did I burn up the pump
Could there be air in the system
Is there something not telling the arms to move
I had the neighbor bale it for me so no hay on the ground just have more fields to get after as soon as I fix this
Thanks in advanced so it said no special characters so I took out all the punctuation or it would not post
 

Welcome to YT
The only thing that tells twine pump to put twine on the bale is where the knob is set in the adjustable slot on twine pump mechanism. Bale monitor has ZERO control of tying cycle. Twine pumps are extremely difficult to bleed the air out when changing hyd oil & filter. Did you fill filter with oil prior to installation on mounting bracket?

My 1st guess is spool valve isn't shifted into the "UP POSITION" to direct twine arm to move from home position to RH side of baler.
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:00 07/01/18)
Welcome to YT
The only thing that tells twine pump to put twine on the bale is where the knob is set in the adjustable slot on twine pump mechanism. Bale monitor has ZERO control of tying cycle. Twine pumps are extremely difficult to bleed the air out when changing hyd oil & filter. Did you fill filter with oil prior to installation on mounting bracket?

My 1st guess is spool valve isn't shifted into the "UP POSITION" to direct twine arm to move from home position to RH side of baler.
So do you think if there is air in the line that the arms would not function because the hydraulics of the pump cannot work with air in the line. I will try bleeding the system as it shows in the owners manual. I did fill the filter before putting it on, I will have to take a look at what the spool valve is. There is a idler puller that engages to run the pump, however it seems like it is having difficulty disengaging.
I power washed it real good today so I should be able to get a better look at all the parts and investigate further. Car parts I know, baler parts not so much. Thank you so much for your reply, I hope I can get this going soon:
 
Well I read this last night and had to think about it for awhile.

I would bet that your original problem was the control valve spool stuck in the control valve body. This is not terribly uncommon when the baler sets for a period of time. That spool has to move easy enough for the springs/linkage in the tie mechanism to work it. So all you would need to do to cure than is spray your favorite penetrating oil on the spool and work it back and forth until it moves easily.

I will tell you quit listening to the neighbor. LOL The power steering fluid would work fine in the Hydraulic pump. I use JD low viscosity Hy guard in the ones I work on. Like TXJim posted this pump is terrible to get the air out of it after filter and fluid changes. I have had to drop the pump out to where I could get a drill to turn an adaptor I made to turn the pump with. Then loosen fittings and bleed air out. Even then lots of cussing on some balers.

So remove the filter and fill it clear full of oil (pick your poison on that). Reinstall it. Make sure the pump reservoir is full. Make sure the valve is working freely. Loosen the fitting/hose on the pressure/output side of the pump. Have some one run the tractor/PTO/baler while you stay by the baler pump. Trip the twine tie. The springs should engage the pump and valve too. You should get air/oil out the lose line. Tighten the line while the pump is running. The twine arms should cycle then because the pressure should build with the air out and the line tight. Now you should be able to manually trip the twine tie and it cycle like it should. While your there make sure the auto tie springs and linkage are free and hooked up correctly.

I hope you did not damage the hydraulic pump when it got hot. It getting hot could be from running dead headed against a stuck valve. It also could be from running with too little oil and air in the system too. Most likely it was the stuck valve and IF your lucky nothing was hurt.

If the pump is bad I have the model, brand and year of pickup that used the same style pump. I will have to look it up in my "stuff". I have not really had to work on many 35 series balers in the last 15 years. The 66 series took over the market in my area so the few JD 535 balers do not get used near as much.

In the future make sure the baler is good and clean before storage. NEVER Wash the baler and then store it. That will stick valves and ruin bearing just about every time. The best thing to do is use compressed air and clean the baler as best you can. Then in the spring/summer wash the baler then lube all the bearings. Then go bale ASAP.

Make sure the valve moves easily and keep it lubed up. I found that Fluid Film works well. Just it will attract dust. So I usually blow the excess off with compressed air. But when parked for much time I spray the entire spool and tie/wrap linkages with it to keep them form rusting.

Let us know if any of this is your problem and what solved it. If these ides do not work get more information and post back. Several fellows on here have a lot of JD baler experience.
 
You posted as I was. LOL That linkage that engages the idler also moves the spool valve. So if the idler is not kicking out the pump it keeps running. This would be with the valve close if it is stuck. I would bet the valve and or linkage is stuck/rusted an causing trouble.
 
Thank you all for taking the time to help me. I will try all the things mentioned and definitely let you know the outcome.
 
thanks for your help. on a positive note I undersand what the spool valve is now as the operators manual did not list anything about it. (in between (24) and (5).
The reset lever (14) was not hitting the reset bar (21) and would not open the valve to provide hydraulic pressure to run the twine arms, turns out that the whole reset
linkage was kind of stiff so I will lube it up and I plan on replacing the springs on the reset linkage after i find the parts, the parts guy at JD couldnt find it and
recommended i look one john deere parts . com .
found a chevy power steering pump at NAPA for a 1988 chevy 3/4 ton pickup (TXJIM is this correct?) turns out when the pump overheated it took out the seal and is
leaking real bad. while I am in there i am replacing all 5 springs, pump belt and the large pick up belt. I usually don't know what i am doing until i have done it, but I
always get it done. I will let you know when it is field tested and making bales again.
Who knows maybe one day I can grow from a baby grasshopper into a daddy grasshopper and be like one of you awesome guys that take time out to help others out, I
appreciate it beyond words. if you are ever in Michigan let me know and I can buy your lunch at my wife's bakery.
 
Sorry, I am reading on my phone so it is hard to follow, I think I mentioned txjim for the specs on the pump but I see it was jdseller, dthey matched it up to my pump when I took it in, they tell me it fits an 88 three quarter Ton Chevy truck, I have to swap over the reservoir and pully and I should be in the hay field on Friday.
 

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