Hard starting 4430

K Effective

Well-known Member
I picked up a '73 4430 last summer to mow hay and run my feed grinder. He told me it was cold blooded and he was right, it even starts hard in this heat. I added water to the two 6 volt batteries, charged them and cleaned all the terminals, which lead to adequately large battery cables (0 gauge, I think). The starter is a replacement from JD, in the 1990s if I remember correctly.

I have picked up on the steering wheel bump technique to bleed off hydraulic pressure. Since the three point arms settle down overnight, I will be lowering them and leaving them down during start- I hear them rising while cranking and figure that can't help.

Any other suggestions for improvement? I can pull injectors this winter and have them gone through, but would rather leave the head on if possible (heard milling the head improves compression and starting).

Thanks for any input!
 
Additional info: this tractor had an intercooler installed, prior to the previous owner. A neighbor of mine says some JD dealerships were adding these to 4430s and cranking up the pumps to make more power back in the era. The PO said it performed well in tractor pulls, but I will not be participating, nor do I need the "extra" power, stock is more than enough. So, assume the pump is cranked up from stock.
 
Those old models had a trip mechanism on the pump that had to be tripped,,I was made to happen as the stop was pulled,, but they got out of wack...look into that,, I will get a pic for you tomorrow..
 
If it has the early Bosch 2380 pump, those did not start well compared to later models. If it still has the "rat trap" aneroid cut out linkage on it, make sure the rod is pulled out for starting. Pump has retard start notched plungers, which retards the timing during starting, BUT the rack needs to go full travel 21MM for that feature to work. Late pumps have the oil cylinder that cuts the aneroid in after starting. Best do a compression test too, and see what that shows. Good chance it's low, and later higher compression pistons would help a lot.
 

Way back when 4430's were new or nearly new i was instructed that after stopping engine while engine oil was warm to push throttle wide open then return throttle to idle. I was told this method is suppose to help set rack in start position. I agree the rat trap aneroid mechanism is a PITA more especially after they get some wear
 
I just had an old style pump up-dated,,the pump shop did away with the "Rat Trap",,I have not started it yet,,but it looks good..
 

If it has the 'rat trap' mechanism Tim S is talking about on the throttle/kill cable...it is easy enough to delete. Just take off the extra cable and the weird aneroid reset mechanism...find a spring, washer and cotterpin and put on the aneroid shaft that's left sticking out of the pump. The spring needs to be maybe 1/2" diameter and about an inch long....put it on the shaft with the washer and cotterpin so it will keep the shaft pulled out...
 

If it has the 'rat trap' mechanism Tim S is talking about on the throttle/kill cable...it is easy enough to delete. Just take off the extra cable and the weird aneroid reset mechanism...find a spring, washer and cotterpin and put on the aneroid shaft that's left sticking out of the pump. The spring needs to be maybe 1/2" diameter and about an inch long....put it on the shaft with the washer and cotterpin so it will keep the shaft pulled out...
 
Bingo! Have yet to see a 4430 that is not turned up, w/o sluggish starting. Two 12V battery's instead of 6V will help .
 
Block heater is too obvious? Overnight cool will linger internally even in "this heat".

4630 ether queen with the same problem and wanting to overheat in the summer due to inefficient use of fuel due to the worn out condition of the engine. My overheating complaint was rebuffed by you should overhaul it maybe because 4630s don't overheat.

This one went thru thermostats like a kid eating candy, a compression test would show the worn out aspect quite well. Golden opportunity worth doing while you have the injectors out being rebuilt?
 
4430 is a hard starting tractor anyway. I would try a new
reduction gear starter made by Nipindenso. They help a lot.
 
All right, thanks for all the replies to date. I took some crappy pictures this morning in the barn- probably should have added them originally. I hope this tells you which pump I have, and I think this is a picture of the rat trap. Is the plastic , rectangular lever under the flat plate supposed to be in two pieces? Seems broken to me. All the parts flop around pretty loose.

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(quoted from post at 13:06:51 07/01/18) All right, thanks for all the replies to date. I took some crappy pictures this morning in the barn- probably should have added them originally. I hope this tells you which pump I have, and I think this is a picture of the rat trap. Is the plastic , rectangular lever under the flat plate supposed to be in two pieces? Seems broken to me. All the parts flop around pretty loose.

There's 2 plastic levers, #22 and #25.

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To "Dieseltech" and "Ragnarok", as I recall, when all that mechanism was new and working properly, it pushed the aneroid shaft sticking out off the I.P. INWARD at shutdown to release the rack from the aneroid control and allow more fuel for better starting.

When they wore/no longer worked, you could manually push the shaft inward, and hear a "click" as it released, and the engine would start better.

But you guys are saying they start better if the aneroid release is NOT pushed in at.after shutdown???
 
On that pump the rod is held outward for starting, not in. There was a JD Bosch P pump that did go in, don't recall what engine. The latest oil cylinder controlled pumps the rods are out too for starting, when oil pressure rises the piston then pushes the rod in during running, which places the aneroid into play. There's a bellcrank inside that shifts horizontally to cut out the aneroid so full rack travel can be reached. That allows the pump retard start notch cut into the plunger tops to be in register of the fill/spill port, retarding the timing for easier starting.
 

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