No 5 sickle

I am going to show some ignorance here but I need to get sickle
sections and rock guards for my sickle. Are these part number
specific or done by measurements? There seem to be a lot of
options out there and I'm just not sure what's what.

Jr,
I found the best deal was the "Alternate" guards and knives from John Deere. Good Luck!
John

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Are these part number specific or done by measurements?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Measurements.

Generic, aftermarket sections can be installed on the sickle knife if the holes on the section match the holes on the knife.

Take a look at the photos below.

















Generic, aftermarket single rock guards can also be installed on the cutter bar.

Take a look at the photo below.



Hope this helps.

Tractor Supply has knives and guards that fit as well. eBay usually has some NOS JD guards if you want to try and keep it all original Webb's Sickle Service also sells all the pieces you need online including riveted and bolted bars.

The aftermarket TSC guards that seemed to fit my mower were blue and not the green ones. TSC also stocked a complete 7' knife. Prices wasn't too bad IIRC ? I only need 5 feet so I had to cut 2 feet off.

You can buy a complete sickle, with head and bolted sections for less than you think. They also have guards. Over winter, I rebuilt my #9W mower with new double stub guards, a new bolted section sickle with head, adjustable knife clips, wear plates , and new pitman. It's never cut better, plus I have spare parts for the inevitable breakdown. The guards are smooth, with no ledger plates.

https://www.cuttingcomponents.com/p...-mowers/john-deere-pitmans-5-7-8-9-37-38.html

Both the sections and guards should have numbers on them or letters. You buy sections with that letter and the guards with the number. I.E. there are A sections and B section etc. The hole spacing on them are different so you have to go with that letter section or they will not bolt or rivet to the bar. The same holds true with the guards

That end knife section is VERY handy in keeping the end of the bar clean.
GREAT mower! I still have the one that we used on the farm.LEN

Way back when the #5 was 'Cutting Edge Technology" (couldn't resist), there were only the single guards and smooth sections. The guards had ledger plates riveted in and everyone sharpened sickles. Nowadays, manufacturing tech has introduced serrated sections. VERY GENERALLY, under serrated sections are for wet crops (most hay) and top serrated are for dry crops. That's why combines use the top serrated and hay mowers use under serrated, with a bit of overlap if you're always mowing dry grass hay.

If you want least long-term cost, stick with the old style single guards with snap-in ledgers and under serrated, riveted sections. You can do a bit of grinding as needed to touch the sections up, but most guys don't bother. Ledger plates can usually be replaced, but the tabs that retain the ledgers can get worn or damaged, forcing replacement of the guard. If you stumble on a box of the old, rivet-in ledger plates (they have the countersunk hole) at auction, don't get excited. They won't fit the newer guards- that's why they're still laying around.

Next step up in convenience is bolted sections which require more clearance under the hold-downs. Best performance and convenience is to replace all with the double guards and bolted sections, as another poster did. The guards have no teeth and no ledger plates- you throw them away when they get dull.