John Deere 3020 1966 Model

GodleyFarmer

New User
I have my fathers old John Deere 3020 tractor. I think it is a 1966 model. I am able to see SN T113P 116427R It runs however; it needs some work. I wonder what it is worth or who may be interested in such a tractor? Don't know where to start. I have pics I can post if need be.
 

your location makes a difference, but if you could post some pictures that might help, it sounds like its a row crop, diesel powershift.
 
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With you saying that it runs and by the pics it would be worth $2500-4500 where I am if the trans is ok and the pto stops. It is worth $2500 as a parts tractor. I am in southern WI. Tom
 

i worked a lot down around that area....

if you are using the modern view you should be able to see where it says email, if you sent me an email maybe we can agree on a deal.

Your email isnt open other wise i would have sent you one, i have always kinda liked the old 3020's....

Im just up in NE Kansas...
 
Welcome to YT
From viewing serial number chart on this forum it appears your 3020 is '68 model. Do you have the missing sheet metal parts & side screens. Which type trans does
it have(Syncro-range or powershift)? If engine runs good,hyd's operate properly & trans shifts good I'll guess $4000-$4500
 
Stringy stuff is bailing wire my dad had hung on the tractor just to get it off the floor. My dad had the tractor taken apart to work on it. We have some of the parts and panels in the barn. My dad passed suddenly and this is the way he left it. This tractor has worked a many a mile. I have the tractor in the shop.
 
From previous posts this tractor appears to be a 1968 model. I have the tractor in the shop at our local John Deere place here in Aledo, TX . My dad was driving this tractor recently, then one day it would not go into gear. The mechanic has spent approx. 5 hours trouble shooting the tractor. Engine is good. It has two brand new batteries. It is 24 volt. Positive ground system. New injector, new injections. The mechanic wrote up, "Check Transmission charge pump pressure = 0. Check sump screen, hyd and trans. filters also bypass valve all ok. Added hyd oil and check main and charge pump pressure and found there is a problem in the transmission oil pump. There are additional panels not shown in pic.
 
It would probably pay to get it operating properly to sell it.A 68 powershift would be a handy tractor and I see it has new seat but new emblems and all the sheet metal in place would make it look better.Tires,hours and condition can make a 50% difference but ball park from what I see $4500 would be starting place.
 
Godleyfarmer
1st thing I would recommend is get tractor out of JD repair shop or you will have no equity in tractor. If you choose to do so contact me via this sites email.
Jim
 
Are you sure the transmission disconnect lever isn't latched back. With the lever back there will be no
charge pressure and the tractor won't move.
 
(quoted from post at 12:27:57 06/21/18) Are you sure the transmission disconnect lever isn't latched back. With the lever back there will be no
charge pressure and the tractor won't move.
Is this the lever located on the left side? Then do you need to pull a knob up?

It would be good if anyone out there had a pic to post of the shifting part of the tractor.
 

Clutch disconnect lever(key 1) for Powershift trans is on LH outside of dash. One needs to pull knob(key 9) out to push handle forward to engage damper clutch.

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Thanks TXJim. I still haven't made my way to the shop to try this lever. I probably need to have you on standby when I do. :)
 
Thank you so much TXJim. You really know your tractors.
You were a hero today in my eyes. My husband and I drove to the repair shop where we left the tractor a few weeks ago, they told us there was a problem in the transmission oil pump and the tractor won't move. It would be a major expense to have them fix it. I was bummed out about it and decided to google this tractor and stumbled on this forum. It was a God send. TXJim you totally hit it out of the park with your knowledge of this tractor. You suggested we go back to the shop before we have it towed back home, get up on the tractor and try one more thing to see if it would move.
You had us, Check to be sure the damper clutch control lever to see if it was straight up and it was. It needed to be in a forward position for it to be engaged. Once we pulled out of the knob while pulling the damper clutch control lever on the left hand outer portion of the dash the lever finally moved forward which engaged the clutch. Therefore, the transmission pump and the hydraulic pump was getting oil pressure.
The power steering started and the transmission started correctly thus the tractor began to move. We drove it home about 6 miles and today was a success story because of this forum. The help and support from TXJim and some of you other guys on this forum like Tom from Kansas, I understand so much more about this 1968 row crop. I am so glad I joined. It sure saved us a lot of money. Now I can sell the tractor as a good running tractor. I hope my video post uploads so you can see it run.
19692.jpg
 

GodleyFarmer
You're more than welcome. I'm glad that I could help you over the telephone & demonstrate to the JD dealership employees that they need to study the tech manuals for the older JD tractors not just jump to conclusions. I think you're going to have work on your video posting procedures.:lol:
It was a real pleasure talking to you,Jim
 

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