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JD820 Brake question - help please

T

TallPaul

New User
I recently picked up a 1971 JD 820 and I'm trying to figure out the brakes. The pedals push little hydraulic cylinders under the foot rest. The issue is that one pedal needs to be pushed a
good inch to inch and a half farther than the other. This becomes an issue for me when I need BOTH brakes to work on some hillsides. The service manual has some adjustments for the
pedal to cylinder actuator (I hope you know what I mean by that), but that adjustment is minor and doesn't fix the problem. Also, I've tried bleeding the brakes on the low pedal side and I
just get fluid, no air (unless 6 or 8 full pumps isn't enough?)

Can anyone point me in the right direction??
 
There is an equalizer valve between the two ports of the brake housing. You will need to remove the housing and open it up - shop manual should show how. Then replace the equalizer. I had to do the same thing to my 1520.
 
Ah great. Thanks for the info. I was at the Deere dealership today and asked about parts for the unit. They said none are available, but a new unit is available for $1200. Yeah, that's not gonna happen!
Any tips for where to get an equalizer?
Also, I don't see any detail in the Deere shop manual regarding a rebuild. Is it fairly straight foward?
 
OK, I've done some research online and at least located a parts diagram. It looks like there is a valve assembly available for a few hundred bucks. I'm thinking about maybe opening it up and poking around and doing some cleaning. Maybe I'll get lucky and not need to replace anything. Thoughts?

Also, if I open it up to take out the valve, will hydraulic fluid gush out? Do I need to drain the whole system?

I'm thinking it's part #3 in this diagram. Yes? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/83813/referrer/navigation/pgId/230072
 

It's been a long time since I witnessed R&R of JD utility brake valve from clutch housing but I think one will not need to drain trans to remove valve. Ditto on checking equalizer valve.
 
That's good news, Jim. I did some more checking today and it looks like there's a leak around one of the pistons.
 
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