hooking up JD 1020 remotes

Greg273

Member
Looking at getting a decent JD 1020 from a guy down the road, only issue is there are no rear remote hydraulic ports. Just needing one circuit for raising mower conditioner. Not sure where to start, just looking for ballpark figure on how much parts are going to run me. I can do the wrenching myself, but I'd kind of like to know what im getting into before I plunk down the cash for this tractor,

Thanks,

Greg
 
If you want a factory setup your going to be looking at $700- $1000 with a good valve. Your going to need the valve and its mounting casting, the steel lines and rear coupler casting. Call Boot Heel salvage yard and ask them for a quote. They have had a good price on them the last few I did but that was 3-4 years ago.
 

Thanks, that looks like a great resource! Factory $700-1000, how about aftermarket?
Im looking up part #'s now. Do all the 1020 pumps have enough ports to do this? I didnt actually get tractor and have time to check it out closely, was supposed to pick it up tonight but didnt work out.
Just in research mode before I plunk down the cash.

Tractor also lacks a foot throttle, so im hoping to find one of those also. Its a gasser engine. A foot throttle would be a luxury, but the remotes are a neccesity for what I am planning to run.
 

Having a tough time finding the steel lines. Im wondering how many models used those same sized lines? Or will I have to fabricate them?
 
Let me look tomorrow as I think I have what you need here. Complete kit with steel lines,lever,valve and rear couplers. Would sell it for $800. Reply back if interested. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 20:47:10 06/07/18)
Thanks, that looks like a great resource! Factory $700-1000, how about aftermarket?
Im looking up part #'s now. Do all the 1020 pumps have enough ports to do this? I didnt actually get tractor and have time to check it out closely, was supposed to pick it up tonight but didnt work out.
Just in research mode before I plunk down the cash.

Tractor also lacks a foot throttle, so im hoping to find one of those also. Its a gasser engine. A foot throttle would be a luxury, but the remotes are a neccesity for what I am planning to run.
reg the hydraulic pump is not involved in mounting rear SCVs on the JD 1020. The valve gets it pressure oil supply from a fitting right on the right side of the tractor. You put a Tee in where there is currently an elbow.
 

1020 will only have an a "tee" where one attaches pressure line for scv if it's below serial number < 045,200 thus 1020 will have ""open center power steering"" if so equipped. . Above 045,200 one attaches scv supply line into rear of pressure control valve pictured below.
mvphoto17925.png


Another cheaper/easier to install option IF only 1 hose is required to raise/lower Mo-Co is to tap into rockshaft piston housing which requires special fitting (key 9) & utilize 3 pt lever to control Mo-Co. Correct fitting part # listed below is determined by tractor serial number.
T21638 Adapter Fitting ADD 79.54 USD
L62507 Adapter Fitting - ADD 14.54 USD

17926.jpg
 
JD Seller and TX Jim - My 1020, serial number 25XXX (can't remember last 3) has basically a log splitter valve plumbed out of the hydraulic filter housing. The housing is the one shown in the parts break out to fit a 1020. However the actual valve and mount it is on is not original and then the two outlets are mounted right off of the back of the valve. I hook up a hydraulic cylinder top link to it in the fall to help level out my 3pt. forks when picking up pumpkins from the field.

Not sure if this is a correct set up hearing what you both mention but it does seem to work...
 
(reply to post at 07:59:18 06/08/18)

hotflashjr
Your tractor with SN 025xxx should have open center power steering with a PS pump mounted to RH frt of engine & shouldn't have a pressure control valve but have the ""tee"" JD Seller mentioned instead. There are several methods to add scv to a JD 20-55 series utility tractor
 
Great info, thanks everyone. I will most likely get tractor tonight, then I'l have a much better idea what Im working with.
Thanks again,

Greg
 
There is also another Factory option. I did this to a guys 1020 for just want you want. In the parts book there was an option to run a single hyd. cylinder with the rockshaft hyd. I got some of the parts from JD to hook it up. I had to make the bracket to hold up the 3 pt. so it stayed up out of the way while you raised and lowered the rockshaft lever. I am trying to find it at the jdparts.com site and am not seeing it ? I must of found it on my old micro fiche. There was a fitting you put into the right side of the rockshaft housing and a line ran to the back to a quick coupler. You just used the 3 pt lever to raise and lower it.
 
Yes that is it. Sorry I didn't read all your text I was looking at the pictures. I was trying to find the picture of the complete set up as from what I remember it showed it pretty good. It must be in the old microfiche or owners manuals as I sure did not see it on jdparts.com.
 

Just got it home, drove it 2 miles from the guys house, engine sounds pretty sweet, although the starter and/or the battery sounds a little weak. Shifts, steers and drives smooth. I think its going to be a handy little machine.

Serial # 082522T, according to tractordata that makes it a 1969 model.

Also had 'T4R10' on the serial plate, not sure what that means.

Paid $3500, seems like a fair deal for both me and the seller, I'l know for sure when it starts getting some serious use.
 


Thanks for the advice Jim! I had a chance to look it over yesterday before it got dark, and yeah, its a good looking piece of machinery. Clean lines, everything is built solid and strong, just like it should be, made back when things were built to last!

It definitely needs a little attention though, so I am looking for a good shop/repair manual if you know of a good place to find one.
 
I found the valve and outlets but not the steel lines. I know I have them just not sure where right now. Will post back if they show up. Tom
 
"It definitely needs a little attention though, so I am looking for a good shop/repair manual if you know of a good place to find one."

Get the OEM manual from Deere, it's pricey but you won't regret it. I got the CD version. If I need the manual to do something, I just print off the applicable section and take it with me to the shop. Good looking 1020, even has a diff lock, and the ever so rare dual steering wheel option. :lol: IMHO I would get rid of that fuel filter/rubber hose and go back with steel lines and the inlet screen on the carb.
 
the spin out rear rims are a nice touch .
Should be able to find a Jd donor tractor in the salvage yard with all the SCV peices .
There is an option to return the SCV oil to a potted transmission oil filter cover . Instead of just returning direct into the transmission case . If operating a log splitter , hydraulic orbit motor or other high flow loads . This will prevent the front pump from running out of oil .
btw check the transmission oil filter and the sump screen . It is vital to have real Deere Hy-Gard or the Shell equivalent in the system. Otherwise the brake pads with disintegrate .
 
Would that kink in the hydraulic lines have anything to do with the slow turning over? Its one of those 'crank the steering wheel' deals... New battery didnt fully solve the slow cranking speed...
 

IMHO no the dent in hyd line won't affect engine cranking speed but as I previously stated could affect hyd operation speed.

If battery ground cable to tractor hasn't been relocated to starter mounting bolt or engine block from rusty battery box then I suggest to relocate it.
 
(quoted from post at 04:07:41 06/11/18)


If battery ground cable to tractor hasn't been relocated to starter mounting bolt or engine block from rusty battery box then I suggest to relocate it.


Yeah, it was attached right to block, cleaned it up and tightened it down. The new battery helped, but it still turns over slower than i think it should. Havent got to changing pickup screen, filter, and replacing leaking seals at 3pt pivot (the bottom ones). Got a laundry list of things to check.
 
(quoted from post at 05:46:03 06/11/18) . May as well try a hydraulic pump destroker .

Is that the same for the 1020 and 3020? All my google searching turned up was discussions of the 3020 hydraulic system, and a part #AR33249 for the destroker, if I have the same hydraulic pump. Tough to see in the pic under all that oil from a loose oil bath air cleaner, but there it is.

18169.jpg
 
Ok, I think i answered my own question, thanks to buickanddeere in a previous thread.... Part # AR38225 ? Although still not sure if Im looking at German or US-built pump...
 

IIRC since your 1020 was built in Dubuque,Ia it will have a USA built hyd pump if pump hasn't been replaced. AR38225 was correct part # for destroking screw but that number subs to individual parts listed below in photo.

mvphoto18174.png
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. Looks like this is the port I need to tap into. Anyone know where I can get the steel lines and couplers? I can prob fabricate the lines and the bracket if need be, also a bracket to keep the 3pt up and out of the way, but if anyone knows who sells those items pre-made, that would be sweet. Thanks all.
18956.jpg



(Sorry the pic is sideways, havent figured out how to edit that)
 
Can I just tap into that fitting, or do i need to get into the housing to hook up right to the piston? I've never seen inside one yet.
 

assuming the plan is to return SCV oil into the transmission case via this pictured port ?
Why not return the SCV oil o to a ported transmission oil filter cover . If a log splitter or hydraulic motor is connected the front pump will not run out of oil . There will also be more oil flow through the oil cooler while the hydraulics are being used .
 
(quoted from post at 12:35:31 06/28/18)
assuming the plan is to return SCV oil into the transmission case via this pictured port ?
Why not return the SCV oil o to a ported transmission oil filter cover . If a log splitter or hydraulic motor is connected the front pump will not run out of oil . There will also be more oil flow through the oil cooler while the hydraulics are being used .

Was planning to just do the single acting remote hookup off that port for now, and use the 3pt lever to control it, if I can find parts and piece it together. All i need is to raise/lower one cylinder for mower-conditioner height.
Although my oat/alfalfa crop got put in late, and may just disc it all in and plant buckwheat to smother out the pigweed. Sure be nice to have a little harvest, but in the long run its prob my best option to disc it in, add a little organic matter to my farmed-out soil.
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:39 06/08/18) There is also another Factory option. I did this to a guys 1020 for just want you want. In the parts book there was an option to run a single hyd. cylinder with the rockshaft hyd. I got some of the parts from JD to hook it up. I had to make the bracket to hold up the 3 pt. so it stayed up out of the way while you raised and lowered the rockshaft lever. I am trying to find it at the jdparts.com site and am not seeing it ? I must of found it on my old micro fiche. There was a fitting you put into the right side of the rockshaft housing and a line ran to the back to a quick coupler. You just used the 3 pt lever to raise and lower it.

Right on, thats the parts im looking for, but havent had any luck yet. Got a few places to check yet... Deere dealer, salvage yard, and failing that fabricate something. : )
 

Greg273
I think trying to locate the single metal line which BTW is NLA from JD would be similar to "looking for a needle in a haystack". I posted the spec's for the 90° elbow fitting that is available from JD BUT should be available from a good hyd supply business. Get a hose made the desired length with necessary ends & a female quick coupler,install these parts & go to cutting hay
 

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