4020 problems

davida

Member
I was cutting hay all day yesterday with my old diesel 4020 and after about 6 hours of a good productive the engine started loading up. Looked back at the disc mower and raised it up to,see if it was clogged. Then the engine started really loading up and putting out a black smoke. Half a second later it sounded like a top end rattle and I shut it down.

Temp gauge was at 240 degrees F instead of the 175 it had been at all day.

I let it sit about 4 hours and the radiator is full of coolent and the crankcase has the correct amount of oil.

I then turned it over with the throttle in the stop position and it sounded fine. Then I cranked it right up and it sounds normal with the same as always 60 psi of oil pressure.

How much damage can a few minutes at 240 degrees do to these engines?

If not much them what the heck happened?

I am going to check to see if the head gasket leaking into the cooling system and change the oil and see what comes out of the crankcase.

I know no one can tell me how much damage if any is done.

Could the pto system be locking up and did this?

I have only ran it about 10 min after it cooled down and I will not run it again until I find out what happened.

Thank you for any advice.
 
I'd say it over heated and shut down because of being to hot. That is never a good thing so who know if it hurt it or not. That is why one needs to keep and eye on the gauges and when one is reading out of place one should take steps to stop the problem before it stops it self
 
You are correct. I had been watching the gauges all day. I got into a small section of hay where I was constantly turning.

It went from 175 to 240 degrees in just a few minutes.
 
That could be caused by clogged up fin due to grass seeds etc. Or the thermostat went bad all at once. Your likely to be ok but I sure would make sure the radiator is clear of debris and also make sure it is full and maybe fire it up with the cap off and let it warm up and make sure you have good flow
 
You must have a special 4020, as they didn't leave the factory with oil pressure gauges, nor a temp gauge marked in degrees, just a color coded temp gauge and an "idiot light" for oil pressure.

IF the coolant temp was REALLY 240? with antifreeze in the system and a functioning pressure cap, it wouldn't have hurt a thing, much less cause the engine to "load up and shut down".

Engine damage from overheating only occurs when it gets so darned hot it pukes the coolant out and then temps really soar, and aluminum pistons gall/stick to the sleeves and/or melt.
 
I added the gauges. I like numbers on working gauges to show water temp and oil pressure.


I have never had a diesel run hot before or load up like this and all I could see after I shut it down was a temp gauge at 240.

I will change the oil an filter and see what comes out and go through the cooling system.

Maybe i did get lucky and there is no damage.
 
Yes blow out both side screens for good airflow and maybe change the thermostats. I believe there are 2. If your coolant is old flush the system and use the anti cavitation coolant sold by John Deere. It costs more but can protect the engine from cavitation damage.
Larry
 
Make sure the fan belt is not slipping. A belt that is worn out
(narrow) can be tight and ride in the bottom of the pulley, and not drive properly.
 
You don't want to hear my vote...it sounds like a piston is gualding....but it is hard to tell unless your standing beside it...
 
Sounds like you now have a piston with a four corner score on it. It might run fine for a long time if it stays cool, but this can also lead to broken piston skirts. If you drop the oil pan and look at the lower end of the sleeves you can see the scuff marks on the bad one.
 
I concur with Tim's and ET's assessments.

Normally 240 F for a few minutes on engine with the proper strength of antifreeze and a functioning radiator cap is not the end of the world but given your load does not appear to have been powertrain induced(PTO or drive system), it seems that the engine may have got hot enough that the PTCW clearance diminished to the point of almost sticking one or more of the pistons to the sleeves. Hence the unexplained load on the engine and subsequent improvement after the engine cooled down.

Any significant damage will likely show up in the form of increased / increasing blow-by.

Might be a good idea to confirm the accuracy of the coolant temp. gauge with an infrared heat gun pointed at multiple locations near the temp. gauge probe. Gauges with numbered graduations are handy but not all aftermarket parts are of the highest quality/reliability/accuracy.....



(quoted from post at 19:36:01 06/04/18) I was cutting hay all day yesterday with my old diesel 4020 and after about 6 hours of a good productive the engine started loading up. Looked back at the disc mower and raised it up to,see if it was clogged. Then the engine started really loading up and putting out a black smoke. Half a second later it sounded like a top end rattle and I shut it down.

Temp gauge was at 240 degrees F instead of the 175 it had been at all day.

I let it sit about 4 hours and the radiator is full of coolent and the crankcase has the correct amount of oil.

I then turned it over with the throttle in the stop position and it sounded fine. Then I cranked it right up and it sounds normal with the same as always 60 psi of oil pressure.

How much damage can a few minutes at 240 degrees do to these engines?

If not much them what the heck happened?

I am going to check to see if the head gasket leaking into the cooling system and change the oil and see what comes out of the crankcase.

I know no one can tell me how much damage if any is done.

Could the pto system be locking up and did this?

I have only ran it about 10 min after it cooled down and I will not run it again until I find out what happened.

Thank you for any advice.
 
I am thinking y'all are correct.

I cranked it again this morning and it
should fine up to 2000 rpm. Beyond that
there is a noise that was not there before.

I was going to pull the head but the oil pan
will be easier.
 
Pulling the oil pan is both easier and cheaper. With pulling the head one has to do the valve cover the injectors lines the push rods and the head. Where as with the oil pan you drain the oil and drop the pan and let it sit a while so as to let any excess oil drip so one does not get a face full of oil
 
Out 4010 did this a few years ago. The oil
pump relief valve stuck. Got hot in a
hurry. Swelled the oil filter can? Took a
while to cut it up enough to get the pan
off.
 

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