Styled D Radiator Replacement

Hi All,
My '48 D was fitted with this home made fixture to replace the radiator by the prior owner. It has been working but limiting my play time on the tractor to
about a half hour before the temp goes over about 190. I have been collecting parts for awhile, A new core, shutters and linkage, gaskets, bolt kit ect, to make
the tractor "Whole' again and have started the tear down. If I remember right, the prior owner said he didn't, or could not find a source on a new radiator
core, so he fabbed this out of stainless plate and tubing he had laying around. One positive to this is he used all new grade 8 bolts to put it all together,
there isn't really any corrosion so it should come apart fairly easy, with hopefully no bolt breakage. On the negative side though, the upper tank has a lot of
welding done, and the passage for the shutter control rod has been filled in with some kind of epoxy or JB weld, so that will have to be dealt with. This will
be the first time I have assembled a radiator like this, with a top and bottom tank held together with bolts, I was wondering what you folks would recommend to
use as a sealer on the tank gaskets, they are the rubberized cork type, and all the bolts that hold the tank to the core. I might have to to have more repairs
done to the top tank after renewing the shutter rod passage, we'll see when we get there. I really want this to go back together "right the first time", so any
advice on sealing this properly would be Greatly Appreciated, Thanks...Tom
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I use the same composition of Gaskets as you have mentioned:

I only use CONTACT CEMENT as per Instructions:

NEVER had a leak on any JD 2 cylinder Rad Cores:

ALL surfaces are spotlessly clean on assembly:

Bob...
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All the time spent making that I wonder why they didn't put in many more tubes and then some sort of fins ? It might of worked to keep it cool then.
 
Thanks for the reply, I googled LePage, it appears to be a great product, but does not seem to be available in the US, only Canada. Did you use anything on the bolt threads ? I have seen that some one recommended anti seize, but wondered if seepage could be a problem. Nice bunch of Tractors, bet they sound awesome with the straight pipes...Tom
 
While I'm here, to replace the manifold gasket, can I get by with just removing the fan, then removing the water pipe to get access to the manifold, or does the fan shaft assembly need to be removed. Manual says governor assembly needs to come off to remove fan shaft...seems like a lot of work, suppose to be having fun right ????
 
Your $$$$$$ your Tractor.

I always follow the below practice:

All threaded Cap Screws and or Studs that come in contact with the medium ( water / Ant-freeze) in the cooling Jacket have threads coated in a thread sealant,LOCTITE product as per picture:
All threaded Cap Screws and or Studs that enter blind threaded bores in the head that are associated with the exhaust manifold have threads coated in a Loctite High Temperature anti-size compound:
When attaching the RAD ASSEMBLY to the Tractor, I always make a DRY RUN. That is, the Rad assembly is mounted on the Tractor with NO GASKETS or Sealing adhesives until I?m sure I have the assembly procedure perfected.

Bob.....Owner of various colored Tractors....
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I use hi tack gasket sealant or Indian head on cork gaskets the next thing is tighten the bolts down in several steps .
 

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