JD60 clutch 'snap'

UncleCarl

Member
Okay ladies and gentlemen I need your opinion. I totally replaced All of the mechanisms in the clutch in my John Deere 60. I noticed the same problem Prior to working on my 60 and getting it running. The clutch seem to not fully engaged or disengaged. The clutch belt pulley would move about a quarter of an inch or maybe a little more but I figured once I got the full clutch facings and everything new in there everything would be solved. Well not so. All new clutch Linings discs and everything else and I can't seem to get it going. Everything seems to be fine except the snap! So is there something I missed or is there something I should have looked at because the tractor sat With the engine Frozen up for 25 years!? I truly don't know and I totally thought the clutch reworking would solve everything. All insights are appreciated and you guys are a true blessing with the knowledge that you share.
 
quite frankly I don't have any way to measure it and not exactly sure how to. I know that I looked at it and tried to move the crank by hand but it didn't seem to move much play if any. But like I said I'm not sure what I'm doing. What's the best way to measure it and check it? Will that actually cause this problem?
 
When you engage the clutch lever you say " The clutch belt pulley would move about a quarter of an inch or maybe a little more", that is too much end play. You need to loosen the flywheel and move it in on the crankshaft to eliminate all but .005-.010 clearance. You will need to block the clutch pulley over while moving the flywheel.
 
I think there's a difference between pulley movement and crankshaft movement (at least on the two cylinders I know of). Best way to check crank end play is to remove flywheel cover and move flywheel back and forth. Should hear a slight "thunk" that's hardly perceivable when watching for movement. The correct way to check this is with a dial indicator.
 
If you can't move it as you say the freeplay is probably fine. Best way to show it and measure it is to use the clutch lever while the clutch remains engaged. Engage the clutch and pull back but not so far as to disengage it - the crankshaft will be pulled to the other side. Now push the clutch lever forward and watch for and/or measure flywheel movement. That is your freeplay. If you didn't see any you are probably good enough to not worry about it. A dial indicator is the proper way to measure it as stated and they are not as pricey from harbor freight. I'm thinking I spent $40 for magnectic base and indicator and being useful for other work I saw it as an investment in tooling. Clamping dial indicator is $32 currently.

When the clutch collar can rotate excessively one gets the mushy pop over. You'll have to tear it all down again to find out if this is an issue or not. A pin (special bolt) locates and keeps the collar from rotating, while washers can be applied to the sides of the pivot axles to get them to align perfectly with the dog bones. This lack of perfect alignment is also a reason for mushy pop over while with the best of attention paid some will be mushy and others will pop like a rifle shot anyway. A drop of grease on the ends of the dog bones can help. Pivot side washers were not installed from factory, but that doesn't stop you from limiting their side movement when it needs limiting by the use of washers. Pins that act as axles for pivots may be bent and need replacing too.
 

Thanks Lee B. That's a lot of information. I'm a fairly smart mechanical guy but I think I'm gonna have to get someone who knows old JDs in mid Missouri to show me how to do this and gimme a hand.
 

When everything is done, do not over tighten the clutch..an 8 year old boy should be able to reliably engage and dis-engage the clutch with relative ease..

As far as "Clutch movement", remember the Clutch Driver..?? it is the part you had to use Jack Bolts to force it off...that is the anchor of the entire clutch and
Cannot move, except for Crankshaft end-play..
The "Clutch Drum" will have some slack when the clutch is dis-engaged, but when the clutch is Engaged, all parts inside that Clutch Drum are Clamped together..

Remember, if you loosen the Flywheel (or the Clutch-Driver), Re-tighten them to FULL recommended torque measurements..

Anytime you hear that "Thump" (of a loosening Flywheel), DO NOT Delay to re-torque it.. it WILL damage the crankshaft to the point that it must be replaced..

A few years ago a neighbor refused to attend to a loosening Clutch-Driver and was still using the tractor while the splines in the Driver were nearly worn through by the splines on the crankshaft...
I doubt you have ANY Idea how much that Hammered..it was a shame too, it was a fine running Gas JD 60...the Hard-Head probably scrapped it.!
 

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