Tool to remove axel wedge on JD 60

chas036

Member
I am having a problem with loosing up the axle wedge on my 60. I got the three cap screws out but the jack screws will not budge and I am afraid of putting to much pressure on them in fear of breaking them.

I tried jacking up the tractor and hitting the end of the axel with a sledge, but without any movement ion the wedge.

I saw this tool made out of a pipe that you can put over the axel and put one end against the wedge and hit it with a sledge hammer. My question is, has anyone used this tool and had success where nothing has worked?
 
I just broke off one of my jack bolts. I have been beating on the wedge with holding a chisel up against it and hitting it with a small sledge hammer. It has seemed to move about a 1/4" in but nothing more. I am at a lost on what to do.
 
Couple suggestions. Put 3 bolts in not tight and hit on them also. Turn wheel so the split in the wedges is at 12o clock keep pouring pentrating oil in the gap . Use 1/2 acetone ,1/2 transmission oil. . take the bolts out of the other wedge. Use an air hammer with the proper tip and work on the wedges
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:05 04/22/18) Put 3 bolts in not tight and hit on them also.

I have read that it is no good to hit these botls because it is very easy to brake the wedge casting off.
 
(quoted from post at 23:09:18 04/22/18) Take the bolts out of the other wedge on the back wheel and keep trying

I have the bolts out of the back and still no luck getting it to move. I have the wheel off the ground with the wedge on the bottom and I already broke off a jack screw, and beating on the wedge with a chisel and hammer does nothing.
 
When I have that type of problem I just loosen the bolts and leave them a bit loose and go for a drive. Most of the time that is enough to free them up
 

After loosening wedge bolts hit end of axle hard several times squarely with a 10# sledge hammer then attempt to tighten jack bolts some more. Yes a pipe cutout to only contact one wedge is when hitting with a sledge hammer is another option

I agree it is not a good idea to hit on head of wedge bolts.
 
Chase, I believe you're talking about the tool that is built in Nebraska. I have two of them, 3 and 3/8 and 3 and 5/8 extra long for long axles. They work great. The guy always has an add in the classifieds in Green Magazine. If you cannot find a number let me know.

Of course I assume you are soaking it with penetrating oil. The penetrating oil is likely not sufficient but can help. I use Kano oil off Amazon recommended by a guy who restores tractors as a business at the Gathering of the Green.

I had a situation this winter on a 4450 where the owner pushed the wheels on so far the key, male, in the wedge was impinging on the slope of the end of the keyway in the axle, female, next to the axle housing. I had to do four things at once to pull the wheel forward on the wedges to get things loosened up. The tool from Nebraska was key to my success.

Paul
 
Air hammer the jack bolts sideways to shake them loose. Hit them from all directions. Then once they are free and tightened against the wedge hit the axle with the sledge several times then tighten the bolts then sledge, etc. With the back bolts loose, it will come loose eventually.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">I am having a problem with loosing up the axle wedge on my 60.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

This is one method of loosening/removing the half key sleeve (wheel hub).

[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#ff0000">Please be mindful of common safety steps; expressed or not.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]REAR WHEELS[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

a192461.jpg" width="650"


Note the cast disk rear wheel (Key 6), special plated bolts (Key 7), jack screw (Key 8) and key half sleeve (Key 13).

Take a look at the photo below of the three, special plated bolts (cap screws).

a192496.jpg" width="650"


[b:654c4848f0]OPERATOR'S MANUAL OM-R2032R[/b:654c4848f0] on page 36 states: "[i:654c4848f0]Loosen all three cap screws and screw them out 1/4 to 3/8-inch.[/i:654c4848f0]"

Raise the rear wheel axle, rotate the tire/wheel/cast center and apply your favorite penetrate in the indicated spots.

a192497.jpg" width="650"


Apply your favorite penetrate on the other side of the key half sleeve in the indicated spots.

a192498.jpg" width="650"


The penetrate used on all our tractors is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

After applying penetrate on both sides, use a small, 10 pound hammer to "lightly" tap both half sleeves on the back side of the tire/wheel/cast center.

Rotate the tire/wheel/cast center 180<sup>o</sup>, apply your favorite penetrate, and "lightly" tap both half sleeves again.

Take a look at the photo below of the jack screws.

a192501.jpg" width="650"


Note the mushroomed head and thread wear; use a socket or wrench instead of a hammer on the jack screws.

Rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on bottom.

You might consider tapping the threads in both holes before inserting the jack screws.

Insert two jack screws in the two holes between the cap screw holes.

a192502.jpg" width="650"


[b:654c4848f0]OPERATOR'S MANUAL OM-R2032R[/b:654c4848f0] on page 36 states: "[i:654c4848f0]Turn the two jack screws clockwise with a wrench until the outer groove in each jack screw is flush with the outer surface of the wheel hub.[/i:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the photo below of the grooves on the jack screw.

a179003.jpg" width="650"


Repeat: apply penetrate, "lightly" tap both half sleeves, rotate the tire/wheel/cast center 180<sup>o</sup>, apply penetrate, and "lightly" tap both half sleeves again.

Repeat: rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on bottom.

Repeat: turn the jack screws clockwise until they are both tight.

Keep repeating the above steps until the key half sleeve comes loose.

It may take a while to get it loose so be patient.

Hope this helps.
 
I used the tool on a 4620. After several weeks with penetrating oil and then using the tool it finaly broke free...do not hit on the bolts on the wedge as it will break...btdt....good luck
 
The reason I am trying to move my wheel is so I can get my belt pully off so I can take off my first reduction gear cover to replace the gasket. I am leaking gear oil at the bottom where the cover meets the tractor and I assume the gasket is bad. I am only short about an inch of getting that clutch pully off. After working on this wheel for the last three days without success, I think I am going to try another option which is loosing the rim clamps and trying to move the rim a few inches to give me the clearance..
mvphoto15313.jpg
 
Have you tried deflating the tire, or is it full of chloride?

MITE just give you that inch you need!
 

When I had to move the wheels on my 6030 (and when we had to on dads also), I just loosened the lock screws, tightened the jack screw and then took it down the ditch (so I?d be on an angle leveraging the wheel perpendicular to the axle) along the road swerving gently and slowly until it broke loose.

On one that was stuck tighter than you could believe, it didn?t break loose like that until I did 10 minutes or so of figure eights hitting that side rear brakes off and on.

They can be bears for sure...

Howard
 
Chas did you loosen the 3 bolts on the inside wedge,I just went through this and I took the bolts completely out of the inside wedge then rotated the wheel 180%,stuck a bar under the tire and wiggled it up and down till the wedge fell out.
 

You don't have to take the Hub loose to get the room you need...

Just take the 6 bolts out that hold the rim to the cast wheel center...you will pick up plenty room. Just do be cautious if the tires are Loaded..
 
To deal with you pulley removal,, I have let the air out of the tire and used a come-a-long to pull the tire away from the pulley..but if you have fluid in the tire this don't work well
 
I built a tool like that many years ago out of common pipe. Full length of the pipe contacts the wedge, with the wedge half on top of the axle. Half ways on the edge of the pipe, I cut the pipe at 45 degree angle, so it stays away from bottom wedge. Hard to describe but no pic. I welded a nut on the pipe to hook a tarp strap to it,and the wheel, so the pipe stays in place. Weld half inch thick plate on other end, to pound against.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top