52 A clutch

dgobely

Member
1952 A anyone tell me if there is a torque requirement for the drive disc when reassembling the clutch. Didn?t see anything in the manual.
 
No, tighten as tight as you can get it, hit the washer to drive the disc on and tighten some more . Repeat till it doesn't move anymore.
 
MSD's got it. Only thing I'd add is to torque it up to the limit of the grade of bolt and consider using a new bolt also. I had one of those come adrift once and cause all sorts of excitement. I doubt if you need it any more than I did-LOL.
 
I take the cap screw back out & make sure the diver is still proud of the end of the crank just to make sure it's plain tight on the tapered splines instead of just 'even' with the end of the crank having bottomed out.

Then put the washer & cap screw back making sure it's tight!
 
As others have said, tighten as much as you can, hit the bolt with a hammer and tighten it more. Be sure there is a gap between the washer and the end of the crankshaft to be sure the splines are tight. A dab of Loctite wouldn't hurt either.
 
I will write it one more time. In service bulletin #258 October 1957 John Deere wrote and this pertains to all series tractors as they all used the same bolts in each series
B thru 530 Flywheel 150 ft.lb. Clutch Drive Disc 150 ft.lb.
A thru 630 275 ft.lb, 190 ft.lb.
G thru 730 275 ft.lb. 190 ft.lb.
70D thru 730D 275 ft.lb. 190 ft.lb.
R thru 830 334 ft.lb. 190 ft.lb.
 
I appreciate y?all stressing the importance of the tightening of that and Rich for the actual numbers. Thinking about pulling the flywheel cover off to back it up so it won?t turn when I try to tighten it up. Anything to get ahold of on the flywheel?
 

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