John Deere 435 Diesel Oil Pressure Issues

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I have a John Deere 435 Diesel with a Detroit 2-53 engine. I have owned it for several years. This is my second overhaul. I overhauled the engine about 8 years ago. We use it all summer long with a 8 ft finish mower. We mow lots of acreage. I also do some tractor pulling and have upgraded valve springs, pistons, and injectors. I usually do not de-tune it for mowing, the operators all know to take it easy and not to crowd the engine as it will melt down. Well my oldest son borrowed the tractor to mow his acreage (very tall and thick grass). I did not inform him not push the engine. As one might guess, it melted down. Stuck the pistons to the liners and totally locked the engine. I was very fortunate in that it did not do any damage to the block or head.

After a complete rebuild including .020 mains, std rods, new cam bearings, new idler gear, hub, and all new gaskets. Engine starts and runs great, however the oil pressure is low. After first start it carries 40 to 45 pounds until it warms up then drops to 20 lbs. I decided to replace the oil pump, could not find a 2-53 pump as they are obsolete. The factory options is to get the Detroit Diesel gear kit including instructions to machine a 3-53 pump gear set to fit the 2-53 housing. Upon further research and talking with tech support at Central Diesel (Detroit Diesel service and parts supplier) I decided the 3-53 pump and housing would fit, just need to replace the oil pump drive gear with a wider 3-53 drive gear. Mine had wear so it was good to replace it. Assembled everything, (yes it fits perfect) started the tractor and have the exact same problem. I removed the oil pressure relief valve, replaced the spring, and added some shims. Still have the exact same problem. The relief valve looks new with no wear showing, fits the housing perfectly, and moves very smoothly. I have tried two different manual gauges as well as the factory electric gauge. All show the same results. I am at wits end. My goal would be 35 lbs and max RPM and 5 to 10 at idle. Not sure where to go from here. All clearances are within specifications per the I & T 435D manual. Any help or suggestions?

Thanks

David L. Jones

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PBUCWj7-eE
 

20psi idling with a 2-53 is excellent oil pressure . Many get by with 5-10psi at idle.
Did the same thing , installed 3-53 pumps in both the 2-53’s that we rebuilt .
Using what kind and viscosity of engine oil ?
I installed 3-53 connecting rods that supplied oil spray cooling to the bottom of the pistons . The connecting rods used in the 435’s 2-53 don’t spray cool.
 
(quoted from post at 23:58:21 03/17/18)
20psi idling with a 2-53 is excellent oil pressure . Many get by with 5-10psi at idle.
Did the same thing , installed 3-53 pumps in both the 2-53’s that we rebuilt .
Using what kind and viscosity of engine oil ?
I installed 3-53 connecting rods that supplied oil spray cooling to the bottom of the pistons . The connecting rods used in the 435’s 2-53 don’t spray cool.

I would be fine with 5 - 10 at idle. It is the max RPM that concerns me. I know from past experience that 20 lbs at max RPM is adequate, however I wanted more on a fresh rebuild knowing it would decrease with time and wear. What kind of oil pressure do you see at max RPM?
 
Were the 1/8 not plugs left out of the connecting rod throws on the crankshaft?
A series 53 will have some oil pressure but not normal with plugs missing.
 
(quoted from post at 23:28:12 03/18/18)
(quoted from post at 16:00:02 03/18/18) I am using Delo 100 40W.

Ah, you are wise and chose a low ash two stroke diesel motor oil . That puts you ahead of probably 95% two stroke operators .

I started working and overhauling Detroit Diesel's (plus I have lots of miles in GMC and Peterbuilt trucks powered by them) when I was 17. I also worked on them in my college years (1970's), helped pay my way through college. I have always liked them except when pulling heavy loads through the mountains. They were weak at higher elevations. Yes we called them road oilers, just check the fuel and add one gallon of Delo 100. The 8-71 (318) was especially hard to keep from leaking. I had one Fleetstar 1800 that had a 6V-53, it stayed dry and did not leak. The later 92 series were really good engines. I always thought they were easy engines to keep maintained and repairs were very cost effective. This oil pressure thing is driving me crazy. 35 lbs on a fresh engine is not too much to expect at high RPM.
 

Yes, I see the 1/8 pipe plug p/n 444687. It appears only one is required. Not sure, might be the problem. I will check.

Thanks!
 
Not to hijack the thread but what is up with all the different symbols in your post? I have seen it in others too.
a261821.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:42:26 03/18/18) Not to hijack the thread but what is up with all the different symbols in your post? I have seen it in others too.
a261821.jpg

I dont see what you see, mine is fine....
 
(quoted from post at 01:42:26 03/19/18) Not to hijack the thread but what is up with all the different symbols in your post? I have seen it in others too.
a261821.jpg

I have seen it happen on other sites too. Post was sent from an iPhone so that may or may not be a factor .
 
Mine looks fine, I did initially try and past a picture, that could have caused the funny symbols. I will try it again and see if that could be the issue.

David[/img]
 
(quoted from post at 18:45:38 03/18/18) Were the 1/8 not plugs left out of the connecting rod throws on the crankshaft?
A series 53 will have some oil pressure but not normal with plugs missing.
Both plugs are installed! I was hoping this was my problem. Thanks for your suggestion.
mvphoto13187.jpg
13188.jpg

13190.jpg

This picture shows the clearance between a 3-53 oil pump housing installed in a 2-53 block.
 
Unless anyone else has a better idea, my next step will be to remove the oil pickup assembly and check it carefully for cracks or leaks.

Another thought I had was possibly the oil level is going too low and the pump is picking up air. The dip stick is not original and could be incorrect, showing full when the oil level is too low. This dip stick has been on the tractor since I purchased it many years ago. Is it possible the oil is not returning to the oil pan fast enough? Any ideas or thoughts appreciated. The current dip stick shows a full oil level to be about 1/2 inch below the top of the oil pan.

I checked the I & T service manual and it show a capacity of 9 quarts. I installed two gallons of oil (8 quarts). Does the 9 quarts take into account the oil filter? If not could I be one or two quarts low?

David L. Jones
 
Got the oil pressure problem fixed! Thanks for the help and suggestions. I had two problems. First the oil pickup tube had been pushed up towards the crankshaft. The top of pickup tube screen housing was concave instead of being flat. This resulted in the pickup being elevated above the bottom of the pan. The second problem was the dipstick was marked incorrectly. I was two quarts short on oil with it on the full mark. Both of these items worked in concert to allow the oil level to get low enough that is started to pull air which reduced the oil pressure. I corrected both, straightened the pickup, and installed 9 quarts in the pan and remarked the dipstick. It now holds 38 lbs at high RPM and 20 lbs at idle. This is with the temperature stable at 165 degrees. I am not sure when or how the pickup got pushed up, must have been during the removal of the engine.

Thanks

David L. Jones
 
I had a 185 thermostat in it, however on hot days in Texas (over 100 OAT), the temp would creep up, so I elected to go with the 165 to give me more creep room. I know my radiator is in good shape, I had it overhauled a couple of years back. With the 185 the temp would reach about 200. Given how hard we pull it when mowing (8' finish mower), I don't think I will have a problem with wet stacking. I'll mow with it and see, might need to up it again.

David L. Jones
 

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