MT Reassembly Questions

I went ahead and pulled the head on my MT to get checked and order a Fel-Pro head gasket set.

I got a service manual and read the proceedure on how to reassemble. I had a few questions.

1. What is the best way to clean the top of the block before reasembly? Should I clean the tops of the pistons also?

2. What are the torque settings for the exhaust manafold, water jacket and rocker arm assembly?

3. Is it best to use anything like Permitex #2 on the water jacket gaskets and bolts?

4. One of the rocker arm studs had a flat side to the bolt. I wanted to double check that it needs to be in the back hole towards the steering wheel.

5. How important is it to re-torque the head bolts after running? If important, how long do I run it before doing so? Looks like I'd have to drain the coolant, remove the water jacket and loosen/raise the rocker arm assembly again. I don't mind doing the work but don't want to ruin brand new water jacket gaskets in the process.

I am still unsure what to put on the head gasket, if anything at all. Seems like everyone I have asked has says something different. Any other tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

You better get a book because that bolt that has the
flat spot has to go in the right hole or the engine
won?t get oil right and you will ruin it I can?t
remember what I had for breakfast this morning so I
don?t even want to try to give you advice but there
are some on here that can keep that stuff in there
head maybe they will get on here

Please see the thread about the JD M manual that I just posted on.

The stud with the flat spot goes towards the rear if I remember correct. The cost of a manual is much cheaper than ruining your engine as you dont know which location the stud goes into.

Then again, I thought you said that you had a manual? Or do you have an I&T Manual that only provides vage information?

Please click on the link below.



http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1347456

I have the service manual. These are questions I had after reading it.

I didn't remember reading about the stud in the manual but mine was in the rear hole. I wanted to just double check that was right.

I still don't seen torque settings for the manifold, rocker arm, or water jacket. Maybe it's not that important.

I was just looking for opinions for the other items.

Thanks.

(quoted from post at 22:05:57 03/13/18) I have the service manual. These are questions I had after reading it.

I didn't remember reading about the stud in the manual but mine was in the rear hole. I wanted to just double check that was right.

I still don't seen torque settings for the manifold, rocker arm, or water jacket. Maybe it's not that important.

I was just looking for opinions for the other items.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Do you have an I&T manual or the Deere manual....
There is a wealth of info in the Deere manual where the I&T manual does not have nessacry info that is always needed.

1 - I use a putty knife and clean everything I can. After it's as clean as you can get it lay a new large smoothe flat file on top of the block and press down with
your fingertips while rubbing it back and forth along the entire surface. You are looking for any high spots whether it be a nick or the bolt holes raised around the
edges. If you find any just rub them out with the file.
2 - No idea on those. I just use a regular 3/8 ratchet and tighten them up. There's no need to try and ring them off, just tight and done.
3 - I alway's use a gasket sealer on the water manifold. Pert near any type will be fine. Nothing on bolts but oil.
4 - Yes the flat goes to the rear.
5 - I never re torque the head bolts after running. You can safely add 5 or 10 to the highest number and forget retorquing. On a high compression diesel I will torque
it to the highest spec and then loosen and retorque them one at a time in the proper sequence and then button it up. If you are worried about the gasket sealing use
copper coat.

Premix that coolant before you put it in. There is no water pump to do it.

Make sure every hole in that gasket matches block and head before you start to put it back together.

Thanks for your help. I am probably over thinking this more than I need. I don't want to mess anything up since it's the first time I ever attempted this, plus gaskets are expensive.