JD B carb kit

Anyone have a recommendation. I have seen prices all over the place. Some have new throttle shaft and some have main screw. I'm going to look it over and see how far I need to go. Would like to send it to Poppin John as he he did a great job on my last carb but I'm not working right now so I'm being cheap.

sometime trying to save cost you more in the end, send to popin john and be done with it. and save in the long run

(reply to post at 20:00:19 02/27/18)

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I bought my kit from McDonald carb I think it was. Complete kit with bushings and throttle shafts and plugs. Biggest thing I read and found was to get all the passages clean inside and it was not a problem for me. Had more time than money in this case. Did not want to spend a lot as I was not sure if this tractor was save able at the time. The satisfaction of a job done was worth it to me. Most would have junked my carb I think it was completely rusted solid. If you are mechanically inclined it is not a bad job at all. Go slow and keep it clean. Good luck

You could do it yourself. They have dvd's on how to, just takes some time. I get my parts from Roberts Carb shop. Ron MN

I rebuilt my H and A carbs with parts from Roberts and some good advice from RandyB. Both were pretty good inside so all I got were gasket sets but they have all the individual parts.

I get all my carb parts from Marks carb and Magneto Rice Mn, quick service and good parts.

Well here's what I've learned. First, get your parts at marks Carb in Rice , MN. 320-393-7272. Best quality parts and lowest cost. Get gaskets at Roberts. Only ones I'll use. Now here's what most people who have tried to do their own and eventually send to me, have missed. Lot of times they already have new float, needle and seat , inlet strainer/cap assy and other easy accessible things . Throttle bushings worn and not pressed all the way in to be flush with bore wall. (should be NO shaft wobble) Throttle blade worn on bottom. You can't see it until removed, it will have a little "step" worn on bottom and lets blade sit low and leak air all around top. Feel the upper bushing wear point on the shaft. If you feel wear with fingernail, then replace it. These little things will make or break idle operation of carb. Use only steel inlet needles and brass seat from Marks. I don't know of anyone else carrying the steel ones. Rubber tips are junk. Steel will never wear out or be affected by ethanol fuel. The seal angle is steeper also for better centering and seal. I have never had to replace the main nozzle, just don't ruin it removing it. You will need a #40 , # 53 and #57 drill bits (6" long) ( Fastenal) . Most I get have the brass plugs removed, ALL accept for the two hard to get ones that they have broken off. These are also the most important ones that need drilled out. Are you starting to change your mind yet ???? LOL If you don't have one already, you need to spend the $ 25 to get the video from Roberts because I don't have enough time to explain it all on here. Little advice. By the time you buy the video , the drill bits , bushing driver , nozzle puller, impact driver for float bearing screws and hope you have an acetylene torch/welding outfit for heating brass plugs that are stuck/broken , you will have more into it than sending it out . OH , and they do need blasted clean inside also. It also will be helpful to learn where all the passages are and what each does because one not only has to know WHAT to do but just as important, WHY you are doing it and what happens if you don't . If Poppin' John is your go-to guy for carbs , then I'd suggest you go that route. If you had 10 JD,s then it may pay to learn it all. If you do it yourself, don't do it to save $$$$ because for the first one , you won't. Do it for the education. There's a lot I have not even covered so be prepared to be humbled.

Thank you for the all the advice. Main goal for now is to get the tractor running. Maybe after that I will send the carb off if I can't get it close enough. I have not looked at it very close yet. I paid to get my 50 done and I am very happy with it but now I have a B and an A in the future. Never know how many more there may be. I will be happy if it starts and moves.

I rebuild a lot of JD carbs and get parts from Mark also You guys can get good carb work a lot closer to home then NY state

I do my carbs my self as well. If people want to send them off, that's fine, but as for me, I'm in this hobby to learn and work on my tractors. So you have a number of types in the hobby and what makes sense to others may not for you. But if you are going to even just tinker with a carb, the Robert's video is a must. Knowing how something operates allows you understand what is happening when they don't work.

The first thing to understand, is that it isn't always necessary to totally rebuild a carb. Sometimes, it is something minor and the remainder of the carb is in good shape. So get the video, it's relatively cheap, watch it a few times then start looking at your carb, see what it needs and then you will know what you need to order for parts and whether or not a kit is a better deal or just some individual parts.