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parade tractor maintenance

H

hoipigeons

Member
Hey guys,

How often should a guy change oil, filter, antifreeze, etc. on a tractor that sits 99% of the time and only goes to one of two parades a year? I don't mind doing it, but with the cost of oil and coolant, it all adds up, especially when I'm looking at my 5 antique tractors.

Thanks for your input.
 
Are they in a heated building year around? Grandpa has a few that stay in a heated building and rarely get used, and rarely get oil changes. I got a few in cold storage that get oil changes annually do to condensation. You can test the antifreeze every hear before winter right?
 
Mines like yours that they do a few parades a year. I test my coolant every fall and change the oil every 3 to 4 years because of very little running time on them. Once a year I crack open all the oil plugs to let out any condensation if any has settled in the bottom.
 
As pbb said, you need to drain the condensation. Since water is heavier than oil, it will settle at the bottom of the cases. Pull the plugs and let it drain until oil or gear fluid starts to come out and put the plug back in. It also does them a world of good just to be taken out and drove around a little time to time as this gets the gears and other moving part lubed up and will prevent then from rusting from the condensation. Getting them warmed up also drives condensation out too.
 
Yeah, it breaks the grandkids hearts when I tell them we need to take the tractors down the road 2-3 times every summer, plus the parade.
 
They're in a machine shed, but no heat. I check the coolant level, but I suppose I should take a reading for strength. Thanks.
 
Thanks. I couldn't convince myself that the oil needed to be changed every year. I've been rotating them, doing the A & B one year, and the two G's the next.
 
I store mine in an unheated pole building here in NE Iowa - cold country. I've never discovered any condensation in an engine nor transmission. I suspect were they setting outside where temperature rises and falls are more extreme and quicker might make that different.
 
Depends on where you are. Here it gets damp
and cold in the winter. After a cold spell
it warms up and rains. Concrete and metal
"sweats" in open buildings. Not so much in
buildings kept closed.
Everyone talks of condensation.... When you
park your toys, cover any openings... muffler,
any kind of breather, shifter quadrants with
plastic and use a tie or tape to tighten them.
Keeping air change out of your tractor will limit
condensation. Oil won't wear out setting.
 
Spring thaws and wet falls are the worst for condensation. You have high humidity levels with temps that fall below the dew point for extended periods and you got condensation issues. Sealing off breather tubes will help but humidity, like water will seek its own level and its hard to make cases totally air tight.
 

Best thing for them is take them to the field and work the daylights out of them..it cleans the unwanted Carbon out of the cylinders as it dries the crankcase and transmission..
 
got a neighbor who has a 530 and I've worked on it a few times. I'm the only one he'll let touch it...years ago I gave him a clutch assy that was in better shape than his....ever since he has had some questions about oil exiting around the slinger. Come to find out he's changing oil twice a year with the hi powder john deere 15/40 oil. He washing the inside of the seals so much with detergents that the seals will not coagulate. I told him to start chaining oil every 3 years or when he drains out give me the oil. What a waist. When I change oil in cars I use the old for my mowers. These old tractors used oil that was not as good as oil after 3000 miles in a vehicle. If you want the rear end seals to leak flush it out good and put that Hi powered oil in it. I restored a 620 for a friend who keeps it stored and he changes about every 2-3 years may use it 10 hrs a year. Was down there the other day and not a leak one. There's no point in snow flaking these old giants.
 
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