4430 clutch job

i just saw a 4430 at auction.....needs clutch.
are these a big(difficult) job? compared to a 4020. they are bigger.

It takes special tools to adjust the hyd operated clutch on the 30 series. It always amazed me how thin the clutch plates were to hold up as well as they do. Hence the name Perma-clutch.

A 4430 is actually "cheaper" to re-clutch than a 4020, and yes a special tool is needed to set them up, no guessing or fudgeing on these and getting Lucky on the set up. The transmission/ clutch oil pressure should be checked "before" you split,and the operating piston seals should always be changed too. Low clutch oil pressure is one of the things that Kill a Perma clutch, the faceings "shelling" off is one of the other things that come from wrong oil and time,another thing that kills them is extreme "Over fueling",if the smoke screw is turned in to far they won't last as long .

Count on installing the trans oil pump "uptime" unit during the clutch work. Or you will get to do the clutch and maybe even high/low clutch packs again in a few hours.

(quoted from post at 13:37:47 12/18/11) Count on installing the trans oil pump "uptime" unit during the clutch work. Or you will get to do the clutch and maybe even high/low clutch packs again in a few hours.

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I disagree. If trans pump pressure is within spec's there's no need to pull rockshaft housing to install a "trans pump uptime kit" to make a clutch rebuild last.

bull

When you pull the pump drive shaft ,pull it out far enough to look at where the pump drives on the shaft, if it"s getting chewed up in that area the pump bushing is getting worn bad,if the pump needs changed Deere only offers the increased capacity pump now. I pulled a 4230 clutch Saturday, the pressure was 150psi, the pump shaft looked good,,the operating piston o-rings were near gone, I"m thinking that was why the clutch pressure was a bit weak, the clutch plates had most of the "checks" filled off of the plates. It"s getting new plates and seals, then I"ll re-check the pressure.

You can do the majority of the work yourself. When it comes time to adjust the clutch, just take the clutch assembly and flywheel to someone with the tool and they can adjust the fingers. Take the clutch assembly out of the flywheel and the adjustments won't change when you bolt it back up to the tractor.

definitely more involved. where do i check the pressure? and what is acceptable pressure?
who was the "bull" directed to?

You check the pressure on the clutch operating housing on the left side behind the Battery, there is a port marked "clutch" it should be 165psi, the "bull" was directed to B&D ..

For all a pump costs and when the tractor is in the shop. And given how worn factory pump and drive shaft are a known problem.
How is folk don't have enough money to do the job right but they have enough money to do the job over again?

Tested cold in the winter and without the tractor been working oil pressure may well be in spec.
What do you think could happen next summer after the tractor has been working and the trans oil is up? Oil viscosity will drop and some clearances may open up increasing leakage.

no bull. i agree 100%. so when should it be tested? after working awhile?

I agree with you B&D with no history on how old a trans pump is it pays to swap them out especially when I'm in the diff case, I took a 55 gal barrel of trans pumps to the scrap yard last summer.But if the pump shaft looks okay and the pressure is right I don't add that to a clutch job.

Test before and after the clutch job..The new pumps are near $850, plus what ever it takes to get the rock shaft off, there are a few ways of doing it..

(quoted from post at 17:57:37 12/18/11) Test before and after the clutch job..The new pumps are near $850, plus what ever it takes to get the rock shaft off, there are a few ways of doing it..

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IIRC even with a Cherry picker the rockshaft housing on a SGB(cab) tractor is "no walk in the park" to R&R. I'd guess without the aid of a flat rate manual that changing trans pump just to be safe would jump the clutch job price up over $1200 more dollars for parts/labor if done by a dealer.

When I slip the rock shaft off without removing the cab I leave the hood off(this is important to keep from bending the back of the hood)remove the rear cab bolts, "all" the linkage (shifter too) jack the cab up and block it on the axle housing then remove all the rock shaft bolts and lines,pull the dip stick tube up out, and I have a piece of 3 inch angle iron that I bolt to the top of the rock shaft with a slit cut out that allows my fork lift fork to slide in this keeps me as close as possible to the rock shaft so I have enough room to lift it up and out, remember to watch out for the load depth cam follower, once your up far enough you can hinge it forward for more clearance, it"s all close but do-able. The Tech manual also shows removing the rock shaft piston end cap and bolting a fixture to that and using a floor crane, this works if you don"t have a fork lift. Speaking of fork lifts, I could not do with out my small 5,000 lb fork lift, for those of you that have never thought about having one it is a great asset to the shop, a "safe" and handy way to deal with rock shafts and front ends, not to mention a portable lift table.

Tim how can i contact you, thanks