Removing taper lock flywheel from 60

Millerpc

New User
I need to get the flywheel off to replace the starter ring gear on my 1953 JD 60. It's a taper lock type setup where the nuts on the crossing bolts are welded as is, and you don't mess with.I got the big outer nut unscrewed, so the wheel should be able to be pulled off, but mine is on their real good.
The only way I can get anything in their to hit it off is by placing a heavy bar through the top of the frame and pounding with a maul on the upper edge of the wheel. That hasn't worked so far and I don't want to crack the flywheel either.
I tried my biggest two-leg puller, but had trouble getting good grip through the holes in the flywheel, and that crank pin deal on the end of the crankshaft makes it hard to get the puller set nicely.
I've not had one of these taper lock style off before, but think I'm right that after the wheel is pulled I'd then be able to pull the taper lock off the crank. Is that correct?
Any suggestions to go about getting this stubborn flywheel loose?
Thanks in advance.
 
I recently had to remove a taper lock flywheel from one of my 70D. Had success using fiber glass wedges used to fell trees to get the flywheel loose. The pulled the collet with a puller.

You might try to remove and turn the ring gear a few degrees then reinstall it while still on the tractor. Have not tried this myself but have read that it can be done. You might be opening a can of worms messing with that taper lock flywheel.
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Put the nut back on so that most of the threads are engaged, but it is not touching the flywheel. Then take a big hammer and smack the big nut a few times. This should make the flywheel jump off the taper. Be careful not to damage the nut! A helper to hold a big block of hardwood between the nut and hammer can help.

Make sure the nut is ON when hammering though... you don't want the flywheel jumping off the taper and landing on your toes!

Allen Machine Works in Jonesboro, TN makes those. You could contact them... removal instructions used to be included with their flywheels.

Usually this is not as bad as it looks!
 
Dan it sure looks like your flywheel is cracked in each web where it looks like it was heated ? I hope you did not reuse it if those are cracks.
 
In addition to what connie says I also have pried out on one or both sides of the flywheel and alternate to the other side so as to try and wiggle it off as someone hits the center.
 
Mike,
No I do not plan to reuse this flywheel as it is obviously cracked and probably has been since the nuts were welded. This has been my go to loader tractor for 14 years. Never even guessed it had a taper lock flywheel as there was never any reason to look. Now trying to decide what to do fix it, return to Denglers or look elsewhere for another taper lock flywheel. Open to suggestions if you have any. Dan
 
Last I knew most people bought them from the original maker Allen Machine works mentioned above. They make one now that was made just for a taper lock and it does not have the holes in it and it has stronger webs.
 
Thank you for the good advice on getting my 60's stuck flywheel loose. Hitting the end of shaft with a heavy maul through a 2x6 while prying one side did the job.
Got a bad surprise though--flywheel has a crack. Is it small enough to ignore? Can these be welded?
Thanks.
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I never realized a JD 60 would have a taper lock flywheel on it, I assumed they were exclusive to the diesels due to the higher compression of the engine? Did 60's have similar issues?
 
That's scary too ! I'd hate to have it let loose at 1,100 RPM only a few feet from your left side ?
 
There's a 730 at a local machine shop near me with about the worst destroyed crank I have seen (one end was torched to facilitate removal) and the flywheel side splined portion was torn off when, as I was told, "the flywheel took off down the corn field". The guys working on it said it will probably take $6500 to get her all back together---which tempers my dream of owning a 2 cylinder diesel just a bit.
 
When Deere went to the covered flywheel, the mounting system of the flywheel was changed with the bolts to the outside. As a general observation, it seems those tractors are more likely to see a flywheel
crack than the older ones (or at least in my eyes). Not uncommon to see a 70 gas, or a 60 or late A that has a taper lock. And of course the 70-730 diesel models as well.

What I haven't heard of is taper locks on the R-830, or some of the later model gases (620-730). I'm guessing they are out there, but I haven't heard or seen any. Allen machine works has made many... it
would be interesting to hear from them which were common and which were not. A couple of years ago, I bought one for a late A, and the owner of the Allen mentioned it was getting hard to find good cores for
A's and 60's.
 
Helped my brother put a taper-lok flywheel on his '48 A 1 1/2 years ago. If you've ever put one on closely following the instructions included with the kit for the taper-lok you can understand why they could be kinda difficult to remove. Whatever, NEVER reuse ANY,flywheel that is cracked anywhere at all, it just ain't worth the risk of having it come apart in use. The original clamp bolts and nuts on the taper-lok,are welded on purpose because tightening them further would upset the machined precision female tapered surface that is companion to the precision male tapered O.D. on the specially made clamping hub and could result in cracking that flywheel.
 

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