John Deere 2010 hydraulic pumps

Smidkiff

New User
I'm a machinist and have worked in job shops for about 25 yrs. There's not too many things that I've seen that couldn't be repaired unless they were completely destroyed. With that said, I have a 1965 John Deere 2010 that lost it's pto. After tearing it down, I found out that the pin in the output shaft had sheared and busted the shaft. The hydraulics on the tractor get weak after the fluid gets hot, so while I have it apart, I decided to take a look at the pump. After taking the pump apart, I have decided that it can be rebuilt with a little work. I am debating on rebuilding it so it has replacement parts in it for the future. My main question is, would it be worth it? Is the hydraulics the biggest problem with the 2010??
 
What do yo plan to do, have slightly oversize custom gears made, and machine the housing parts, or is there something "off the shelf" that will fit?
 
In mine the gears show no wear. The bronze bushings are what has worn and let the gears get into the housings. My thoughts are, to make inserts for the top and bottom housings and remake the center piece that the gears ride in. The gears are harder than everything else in the pump, so they should have very minimal wear if any at all. Shouldn't be a big problem to fix if I'm looking at it correctly. I've even had our hydraulics guy at the shop that I work at look at it and he agrees. He rebuilds a pump that is very similar to it in design and that is the way that it is made.
 
The belly mounted pumps on 2010 wheel tractors with power steering were very problematic. Parts were scarce for them 30 years ago, and I suspect more so now. I cannot perceive how anybody could "rebuild" one. That would mean oversize gears, bored out housing, and I am sure more. At that point, it is not a rebuild - it is just fabricating a new pump.

I just "repaired" a gear-pump on a 1960 1010. That is a Webster-Electric and had near no wear. Just burnt up in a fire. Even so, the high-pressure spider-gasket and thrust plate in front would of been very difficult to fabricate. I got lucky and found a new old-stock kit that a dealer down south had. Kit cost me $100 though and it might of been smarter to just have bought a new Cessna pump and replaced the Webster-Electric.
 
A talented machinist could do the repair. Whether it's worth the trouble is up to you. All depends on time, talent, and enjoyment of a challenge. For the good machinist's I've known it's the challenge factor that count's.
 
I'm wondering how you would re-claim the worn inner housing?? The place where the pump gears wear ??
 
If you can bush the housing where the gear run then you could rebuilt the pump. Your also correct in that the JD 2010 hydraulics where one of there weaknesses. Try changing that belly pump out the bottom. It can be done but you will learn some new cuss words. LOL
 
If you are referring to the middle piece, between the inner and outer housings, there are actually a few different ways to do that. In my opinion, the easiest way is to just make a new one. The parts material is soft so it will wear rather than the gears. As long as a person follows that theory with restoring any parts that come in contact with the gears, the gears will last a very long time. And, if they are made to be replaced, the pumps will last just as long. I understand that these tractors aren't work horses, but they are very handy on smaller farms. I grew up in a John Deere family and my grandpa use to have one. I guess that is the biggest reason why I hate to see them scrapped over something that I see as a fairly easy fix.
 
I guess I didn't think about making a new body,,,,my thought was leaning towards re-boring the body and using over size gears,,ether way it would take some time...
 
The idea to make a new body is really good, a CNC could whip that out.

That would make rebuilding almost any legacy pump easy.

I was thinking about milling down and them off the top.
 
I was thinking about making a new body and then machining pockets in the top and bottom housings and making replaceable inserts. That would make the pumps better than new, if I'm thinking correctly. I'm thinking that once that I get everything figured out that the actual machining time should be 4 hrs or less.
 
Easy? Making a new housing and likely new gears? Maybe new end-thrust areas too? Does not sound like a rebuild to me. More like fabricating a new ump.
 
You are correct... The challenge factor is a major part of being a good machinist. The machining on the pump isn't really the challenge for me, I don't think. I think the challenge comes in for me because so many people say that the pumps are non-repairable. As a job shop machinist, that just puts the icing on the cake. My theory has typically been, if it was made, then it should be able to be repaired.
 
(quoted from post at 00:46:34 02/05/18) You are correct... The challenge factor is a major part of being a good machinist. The machining on the pump isn't really the challenge for me, I don't think. I think the challenge comes in for me because so many people say that the pumps are non-repairable. As a job shop machinist, that just puts the icing on the cake. My theory has typically been, if it was made, then it should be able to be repaired.
ell, if you successfully rebuild the pump you may have created a new job opening for your self.. rebuilding pumps.
Before I would go any further, take a look at the filter. The micro screen in them is really hard to clean. Pull it out and stand it on end and pour oil into it, if it DOESNOT flow out reasonably fast it needs further cleaning. The screen becomes plugged with WAX extracted from the oil. So here's my theory, if the oil cannot get out, it can't get in as well. This may be causing the over heating, not because of wear in the pump, but because of OIL STARVATION. This is just my observation after working with these pumps over the years, most problems stem from a plugged filter..
 

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