1954 Model 70 questions from a newbie

Carls70

Member
Hi All,
Thanks in advance for your time! This is a long one...

I am the proud owner of a new to me '54 70 Gas, PS, Rollomatic, 6 speed with a single-acting PTO driven trip loader (says Farmhand on the tank). I have acquired the IT svc manual, the Deere owners & parts and PS manuals for it. This is my first tractor and its safe to say that I have contracted to green disease so I am sure it will not be an only child.

I discovered this site several weeks ago and have been lost down the rabbit hole since.

I have been unable to disengage the PTO (live) from the lever on the transmission or at the PTO clutch handle. I am in the middle of the initial fluids flush & fill. The 1st reduction, transmission, powertrol, PTO, and loader reservoir were milky/nasty. I understand the contaminated (and overfull) pto case oil can cause issues with the clutch plates.

I am midway through a complete fluid/filter flush, check-up, tinkering, etc.

My questions are:
1. does the PTO clutch/brake lever have a positive detent/action to it? Thinking of how the pulley clutch lever feels... I can pull up and push down on it but beyond the slop in the linkage there doesn't seem to be much travel and I can't feel any significant movement from inside the housing. (Other than the brake?) The PTO stays engaged all the time. How much should the lever move at the handle normally?

2. Is there a trick to releasing the small pto "shifter" next to the range selector? I have cranked on it pretty hard by hand but not with any tools. (Engine off) I am concerned about damaging the linkage etc if I try a wrench or cheater on it. Thoughts? I just want to be able to disengage the PTO when not using the loader...

3. Is there an oil level check plug on the 1st reduction cover? I see the drain and fill plugs but not a way to verify the oil level. Am I missing something? Manual says 1.5 qts of gear lube. If I can't verify the level with a plug am I safe to go 2-2.5 qts? I don't want to blow a seal etc...

4. The loader lift cylinders are quite long (8 ft? More?) The loader seems to lift crooked. Left side goes up first/stays higher than the right. The cylinders seals are leaking, does anyone have experience with these? There doesnt appear to be spanner holes or wrench flats on the seals (gland nuts?). Is there any way to identify the model/type of the loader? Just looking for some guidance on this... The loader bucket appears to have a smaller tined bucket inside of the larger outer bucket. Is this a common loader type for this vintage tractor?

5. Engine seems to run colder than I would expect. I can run for 15-45 min and the gauge won't climb off the bottom of the scale. Granted this is Minnesota in the middle of winter but I expected to see some temp on the gauge so, I tried a 40 gal garbage bag over the grills. After about 30-40 min running/driving I can get it to about 170 on the gauge but if I remove the bag (partially or fully) the temp begins to fall back off. Is it normal for these to run this cold? It looks like it is supposed to be a pressurized system. The rad cap gasket is pretty much nonexistent, I didnt think that would prevent warm-up. Anyone else have a similar issue?

6. How much play is considered normal / too much in the fanshaft? I can rock the fan back and forth a quite a bit; over 1 " at the blade tips... It is tight on the friction clutch though. Shluld I be worried about it?

7. I need to have the choke pulled out between 1/2-1" to make it run smoothly. If I push it in fully it will stall out at the lowest throttle setting and surge in varying amounts anywhere else... According to my research it should have a DTLX-82 carb. Should I be looking for anything special when I dig into it? I have not worked on a duplex before...
The auto fuel shut off was keeping my plug wires well moistureized so I figured that would be the safest thing to fix first lol. Now that the sediment bowl and fuel line area stays dry I figured I would be going into the carb next...

8. It looks like someone took a can opener to the nose to add an air stack and (well aged/cracked) precleaner. Were these factory options? Looks like a hack job...

9. Just because I am curious, did these come with a round or oval muffler? Mine is an oval, complete with 3 hold down bolts and a pop can rain cap. I have noticed on my few trips out that it is distracting looking through the "forest" on the front of the hood and I am wondering if a round muffler is easier to see around and what if any difference there is in the sound?

10. Question on spark plugs, it had loose and very black Champion D21s in it. None of the part #s listed in the book I have make sense to the guys at my local parts stores. I bought a new set of the D21s & had them find the closest thing to the Autolite 3116 (think I saw that referenced # in one of the archive posts) they sold me a pair of Champion D23s. Is there a common consensus on a good light load plug brand & # for the 70 engine?

Thank you again for hearing my (first) ramble of questions.

Carl
 
Carl you say you have power steering is it an add on or factory if factory there is a pump on the
fan shaft behind the fan. you have a lot of ?s you can call me 605 270 1844 an i can explain
 
Carl,

My 70 gas is extremely cold blooded. Note that I have not worked it hard either. One thing I found was mine had no thermostat at all. The stat is available from Deere but very
pricey . Found one recommended by this site that fits but is 195 degree. Still do not think I have worked it hard enough for the stat to open. I am sure Kent can answer all of
your questions with one phone call, otherwise the search function here will provide answers.
 
Restored my 70 a few years back and delt with all you asked sounds like you have handle on what needs attention. After your phone call fix all you can there is still a lot of working knowledge on this site have fun.
 

Hi Kent, thank you for the reply. I don't think I have ever been accused of not asking enough questions lol :D

I should have specified, it appears to be the factory system. There is a gear pump inline with the fan shaft right behind the V-belt pulley. I will call you when I can (hopefully today)

Thanks again!
Carl
 
Regarding the lift cylinders, there are many different ways they can be assembled. If you can't see any obvious way to remove the cap, there is one style where you take the cylinder off and push the gland head in a little. You might need to bump it a little with a brass drift, push it in about 1/2" or so. This will expose a ring in a groove just inside the cylinder. Remove the ring using a screwdriver and pliars, and then pull the gland head and rod out.

Regard the small PTO shifter, which is on the left side on my 630, it must be shifted in or out with the engine off. It shifts with a solid, positive feel but it shifts easy.

Good luck
 
You have a lot to address here, but I will give you a few ideas.

1) The transmission PTO disconnect. If your oil was really milky, and you are in MN in January, there very well could be some ice holding up the shifter, which is at the bottom of the transmission. I'd
suggest a week in a heated shop, or a week of above freezing weather and then try. They usually are pretty snug, but you should be able to move it by hand.

2) A 70 came with a round muffler. It isn't much different from the Deere oval one from a visibility standpoint.

3) The precleaner. It is not unusual to see a precleaner installed later, with some of those jobs having a sheetmetal alteration done with an ax.

4) I use Autolite 388 plugs in my 70 and other two cylinders.

5) Odds are your carb needs some work. Not knowing your ability or desires, consider sending it to a two cylinder pro. It might be the least amount of agrivation. You might also consider a video from
Robert's Carb Repair... they are good tools for the do it yourselfer.

6) I can't help much with the loader. That is something some pictures might help with.

7) My 70 rarely makes much on the temp gauge without working her pretty good. And I have a new thermostat, too. Mine came from NAPA- about 30% the cost of Deeres.

I ran out of things I remember from your list! Have fun with your 70.
 
Your owners manual tells how much oil to put back in the first reduction gear cover. The PTO clutch should engage with a snap sort of, it's an over center lock on it but doesn't have the distinctive snap of the main clutch. Most likely the PTO clutch needs to be rebuilt if it runs all the time. The brake is at least shot. The seal between the PTO and transmission should be replaced when you fix it. The gear oil in the PTO is a bad thing. You might try opening the idle screws a half turn on the carburetor to see if it idles any better. Your fan shaft play doesn't sound like its anything to worry about. Be sure to use the correct fluid in your power steering.
 
I was thinking along the same lines as Coonie Minnie. Maybe some "hard water" (ice) is at work on both the live clutch & the master. Hopefully the master is not rusted fast.

One thing he did not mention is the position of the live PTO clutch handle. Most are roughly parallel to the platform (plus or minus depending on wear & adjustments) when DIS-engaged. If you stand on the ground looking over the right rear tire at the lever assembly/seat and it is engaged, the handle would likely be pointing up at about one o'clock.

If your clutch pack is in the dis-engaged position, the fact that the PTO spins all the time is not a particularly good sign. In that system the clutch & brake are rather "intertwined". Example... If you're working to softly engage a PTO (to start a baler for example) when the PTO clutch works properly, you'll hear the PTO clutch start putting a load on the engine but the PTO is not spinning because the brake is still hanging on. Suddenly the brake will pop loose but the clutch will still be slipping. This is when the PTO shaft starts to roll. A bit more lever travel lets the clutch fully engage then lock engaged & yer off & running. If the clutch is working properly and you don't have anything attached to it, the PTO is either full go or stopped. There's basically no "in between" without a load.

The free space in the brake (when the PTO is engaged) gets transferred to the clutch pack when the PTO is dis-engaged. This free space is the adjustment you need to measure & set to properly adjust the clutch pack. The springs that make the brake work are the same springs that squeeze the clutch plates together when the PTO is engaged.

Assuming there is no "hard water" (ice or rust) involved, the first thing I'd do is to set about adjusting the PTO clutch. That will be much easier if the master is disengaged. It's not a tough job though it can be a bit tedious.

Hope that's helpful.
 
Thank you Buckeye Al.
I am beginning to suspect the milkshake hard water is at least a contributing factor.

I have not been able to finish refilling and run it again since draining out the flush mix (approx 80/20 #2 diesel mixed with AW32 10WT oil). Seems to have dislodged a fair amount of crud and nasties from the various gearboxes.
I followed the manual for the drain/flushing but still need to finish refilling the oils.

This morning was 10 below zero and I didn't think the 8 gallons of gear lube would flow through a small funnel in the narrow window of time I had... :)

So far I have the PTO clutch oil in and noticed that now the lever will click up and down slightly with a definite (but small) detent. Fingers crossed!

You mentioned that having a load on the PTO will change the clutch response. There is a light load IMO on it from the loader pump but I am not sure how much that will actually drag it down. The lever is open center and I am thinking about temporarily adding a valve/gauge inline with the pump to load it down a little. Not sure how smart of an idea this is though...

Thanks for your reply! It amazes me how much knowledge exists here... I am very appreciative of everyone's responses. Will post back/update as soon as I can get back after it.

Thanks again!
Carl
 
3. "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Is there an oil level check plug on the 1st reduction cover[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>?

No.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">I see the drain and fill plugs but not a way to verify the oil level. Am I missing something?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

No.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Manual says 1.5 qts of gear lube. If I can't verify the level with a plug am I safe to go 2-2.5 qts?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

You might consider removing the first reduction gear cover drain plug.

After all the trnsmission oil has drained out, then replace the first reduction gear cover drain plug.

Refill the first reduction gear cover with 1 1/2 quarts of transmission oil.

5. "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">I can run for 15-45 min and the gauge won't climb off the bottom of the scale.....Anyone else have a similar issue?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Yes.

We have three Model 70 gas tractors that will not heat over 170<sup>o</sup> during July in Texas!

Take a look at the <B<THERMOSTAT AND HOUSING</b> diagram below.
a255791.jpg" width="650"


Note the cylinder water (gas) outlet (Key 2) has a threaded hole for the sensor on the temperature gauge.

You might consider removing the temperature sensor from the cylinder water (gas) outlet while changing antifreeze.

Put the sensor in a pan of boiling water and check the range on the temperature gauge.

If the gauge reads approximately 200<sup>o</sup>, then the gauge can be presumed to be accurate.

8. "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Were these factory options?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

No.

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]AIR CLEANER AND CARBURETOR INTAKE[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.
a255792.jpg" width="650"


Note the air stack (Key 2) was the only option for the Model 70 gas tractors.

Take a look at the air stack on "15" one of our 1953 Model 70 gas tractors.
a255794.jpg" width="650"


9. "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">did these come with a round or oval muffler?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Round.

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]MANIFOLD, EXHAUST PIPE, AND MUFFLER (Gasoline)[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.
a255795.jpg" width="650"


Note the muffler (Key 6).

Take a look at the photo below of the oval muffler on "1011" our other 1953 Model gas tractor the day we brought it home.
a255796.jpg" width="650"


Take a look at the photo below of the round muffler on "1011".
a255797.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 
Thank you for the reply &amp; info James. It was helpful to see the pictures of your tractors.

What is your opinion of the exhaust sound / volume from the round vs the oval mufflers? Is there any advantage one way or the other?

Your machines look pretty nice!

Do you have a PDF of the parts book? Those breakdowns look really clear... Some of the diagrams in my parts book are hard to make out.

Thank you for helping a newbie with Green Fever!

Carl
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">What is your opinion of the exhaust sound / volume from the round vs the oval mufflers?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

The oval muffler on "1011" wasn't on very after we brought it home.

Here are a couple of short videos of "1011" with the oval muffler.<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JUu-nWJhcb8" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/v9V79lUUdBo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here is a video of "1011" with the round muffler.<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GPZqbgI8C2M" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Do you have a PDF of the parts book?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Yes.

Send me an email by clicking the [u:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">[Send Email][/b:654c4848f0]</font>[/u:654c4848f0] hyperlink in the bottom right corner of this reply.
 
You can download a parts catalog from the <a href="http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt">John Deere - Parts Catalog</a> web page.

After the [b:654c4848f0]John Deere ? Parts Catalog[/b:654c4848f0] page opens, type the number [b:654c4848f0]70[/b:654c4848f0] in the [b:654c4848f0]Model[/b:654c4848f0] text box then click the [b:654c4848f0]Find[/b:654c4848f0] button.

a161698.jpg" width="650"


Scroll down the list to locate the [b:654c4848f0]313 ? Model 70 Tractor[/b:654c4848f0] then click the link.

a255821.jpg" width="650"


Once the parts catalog pdf document opens, click the [b:654c4848f0]Download[/b:654c4848f0] icon.

a255822.jpg" width="650"


After the [b:654c4848f0]Opening[/b:654c4848f0] option box opens, note the name of the pdf document to be downloaded, then click the [b:654c4848f0]OK[/b:654c4848f0] button.

a255823.jpg" width="650"


At the bottom of the desktop screen, click the [b:654c4848f0]Start[/b:654c4848f0] icon.

a255824.jpg" width="650"


At the bottom of the dialog box, type [b:654c4848f0]Downloads[/b:654c4848f0] in the text box that displays the words "[i:654c4848f0]Search programs and files[/i:654c4848f0]".

a255825.jpg" width="650"


At the top of the dialog box, double-click to open the [b:654c4848f0]Downloads[/b:654c4848f0] file folder.

Locate the parts catalog [b:654c4848f0]PC0313[/b:654c4848f0] pdf document and double-click to open the document.

a255826.jpg" width="650"


The parts catalog [b:654c4848f0]PC0313[/b:654c4848f0] will open.

a255827.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 
Do yourself a favor and either return that I&T manual or drop it in the nearest trash can and get an original John Deere service manual.
 
(quoted from post at 08:39:11 02/02/18) Carl,

My 70 gas is extremely cold blooded. Note that I have not worked it hard either. One thing I found was mine had no thermostat at all. The stat is available from Deere but very
pricey . Found one recommended by this site that fits but is 195 degree. Still do not think I have worked it hard enough for the stat to open. I am sure Kent can answer all of
your questions with one phone call, otherwise the search function here will provide answers.

Once upon a time someone had cross referenced and posted on here the same 180 &amp; 195F stats to a NAPA number. I can't seem to find it again however.
 
B&D

These are the Gates and NAPA thermometers. I used the gates in my 70 gas as the NAPA did not fit. BTW I took the NAPA stat to my local JD dealer parts department and
asked them to show me there highly prized ($200+) stat. It looked identical to the NAPA stat. Thanks for recommending the Gates stat, helped me over a hurdle without
breaking the bank.
a255874.jpg
 

Thanks Much B&amp;D and Dan!

I looked up the Gates # 33049 on rockauto.com
It looks like it crosses to and from the following;
Toyota # 9091603052
Stant # 13549
Aisin # THT007
All listed at less than $20 on their site. Hopefully this can be of use to someone else too...

WGM - I am beginning to see what you mean the more I read the IT manual. I didn't see a Deere manual for my model (I think I was looking at Steiner &amp; Jensales) hence the IT purchase... The OE SVC manual is definitely the next manual purchase.

James Howell - Thank you for the parts help! I could have sworn I tried the Deere site first. BUT it was on my phone not the desktop. I tried again just now and noticed a little footnote mentioning that the older parts manuals are not available on the mobile site version. I must have put my glasses on straight today :)

Question for the group regarding forum etiquette - am I out of line referencing the above "other sites"? I don't want to cause anyone problems or make waves...

mvphoto10129.png


mvphoto10130.png

mvphoto10131.png


mvphoto10132.png
 

Thanks Much B&amp;D and Dan!

I looked up the Gates # 33049 on rockauto.com
It looks like it crosses to and from the following;
Toyota # 9091603052
Stant # 13549
Aisin # THT007
All listed at less than $20 on their site. Hopefully this can be of use to someone else too...

WGM - I am beginning to see what you mean the more I read the IT manual. I didn't see a Deere manual for my model (I think I was looking at Steiner &amp; Jensales) hence the IT purchase... The OE SVC manual is definitely the next manual purchase.

James Howell - Thank you for the parts help! I could have sworn I tried the Deere site first. BUT it was on my phone not the desktop. I tried again just now and noticed a little footnote mentioning that the older parts manuals are not available on the mobile site version. I must have put my glasses on straight today :)

Question for the group regarding forum etiquette - am I out of line referencing the above "other sites"? I don't want to cause anyone problems or make waves...

mvphoto10129.png


mvphoto10130.png
 
(reply to post at 17:03:07 02/03/18)

Thanks Much B&amp;D and Dan!

I looked up the Gates # 33049 on rockauto.com
It looks like it crosses to and from the following;
Toyota # 9091603052
Stant # 13549
Aisin # THT007
All listed at less than $20 on their site. Hopefully this can be of use to someone else too...

WGM - I am beginning to see what you mean the more I read the IT manual. I didn't see a Deere manual for my model (I think I was looking at Steiner &amp; Jensales) hence the IT purchase... The OE SVC manual is definitely the next manual purchase.

James Howell - Thank you for the parts help! I could have sworn I tried the Deere site first. BUT it was on my phone not the desktop. I tried again just now and noticed a little footnote mentioning that the older parts manuals are not available on the mobile site version. I must have put my glasses on straight today :)

Question for the group regarding forum etiquette - am I out of line referencing the above "other sites"? I don't want to cause anyone problems or make waves...

Thanks again guys!

Carl
 
Carl,

I have been told that the 720 spark ignition manual is the closest John Deere has for the 70 gas although I have and use the IT manual too.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the 720 spark ignition manual is the closest John Deere has for the 70 gas[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Thanks for the information.

Ordered the manual today.
 
"Carls70"](reply to post at 23:11:15 02/01/18) [/quote]

So I've been working on &amp; off on the 70 as time allows, this has been one crazy year. Figured it was about time to post an update on the progress.
its a 1954 model serial #15???

I would like to say a Big Thank You to everyone for the guidance!

When I first went to look at this tractor the guy at the shop where it was parked said it had run a few months earlier (warm weather) and would now crank over slowly but not fire up. He thought it was because it was too cold for the 6v system to crank fast enough (cold weather). I thought "isn't this a 12v system?" and looked at the cables, sure enough 2 new 6v batteries in parallel - stone dead. Ammeter went to -15A or so with a new 12v battery connected correctly. Fired up on the 2nd or 3rd time over and went to +15A, Later found the cut-out relay welded shut. Cleaned/adjusted the relay points with the help of a Delco generator service bulletin found on this site. Blew out the crap from the generator and cleaned up the commutator &amp; brushes, now it seems to charge as it should. WOW my digital meters hate the EMI from this system though.

I have changed and "flushed" the transmission/engine oil/PTO clutch/1st reduction/ out with some diesel fue mixed with hydraulic oil (all i had on hand at the time). changed the Power Trol oil, Changed the hydraulic oil in the loader tank. Changed the oil filter to find the spring, clip &amp; washer laying in side of the bottom of the filter cover, fortunately all the parts were present and accounted for :)

After thawing &amp; changing the "hard water" in the transmission &amp; PTO clutch housings both of the PTO levers move and I can detect a slight detent in the lever by the seat. The PTO/Loader pump still will not stop but I haven't attempted to adjust the PTO clutch/brake yet.

Fuel was pooling up in the castings at the crankcase/block joint. The Sediment Bowl shut-off valve seat pitted &amp; leaking. Porous/split diaphragms: hence the empty fuel tank when I went to pick up the tractor. hopefully didn't do too much bearing damage when i ran it to load up &amp; unload it :shock: The whole assembly was loosely in the fuel tank to allow the fuel line to connect... its a wonder this thing didn't burn down at some point! After rebuilding the shut off &amp; a trip to carquest for some brake line &amp; fittings, there is fuel in the tank and not the crankcase the next morning!

Onto the ignition: ordered up a solid core plug wire set and went to the auto parts stores in town get some spark plugs. The parts guys looked lost as I gave them various plug #s from the parts book (in my hand) and the list I compiled from this site. Finally got a hit on Champion D23 and they were on the shelf! The old plugs had backed out several threads and I don't know how the covers weren't shorting the tips out, looking close the plug wires were almost bare for long runs of their length! Thank God I mopped up the fuel before I tried anything else. What a difference those wires &amp; plugs made for a cold cranking start-up.

At first I had to keep the choke pulled 1/2-1" out to make it idle. After diving into the carb I found one of the idle needle ports was rusted shut and the other half plugged. Looking at the inside of the carb - it ran much better than I would have expected at first, lots of rust, lots of jelly GOO, a healthy coating of varnish. After cleaning/descaling/cleaning passages it idles &amp; accelerates very smoothly.

The main clutch didn't seem to have a click/pop detent to it so I blew out the clutch plate area (still assembled) and adjusted the nuts a little tighter (evenly) now it takes a push to get it over center and stays put. Pops back and the pulley brake seems to work. There seems to be a no-mans land between disengaged with the lever and it actually "letting go". Even in gear under way I have to pull it back to the brake a little bit to get it to fully release. Still to be addressed...

The power steering (JD) was barely working to the right and the wheel wanted to intermittently walk to the left. Fluid level looked ok but was really dark/nasty. I noticed after it was warmed up it seemed like it didn't do much at all. Ordered up some JD PS fluid (thanks James Howell for the part # in one of your posts) and changed it last week. Seemed to be much softer feel/more responsive but I haven't had a chance to get it hot with the new fluid in it yet. Fingers crossed. I bought the JD manuals for the system to read up on it.

The starter stopped spinning the engine over this week so that is next on the list. Thanks again for the help along the way &amp; the company on this adventure!

Carl
 
(quoted from post at 02:54:59 02/03/18) "[b:49e5a1f7af][i:49e5a1f7af]&lt;font color="#6699ff"&gt;What is your opinion of the exhaust sound / volume from the round vs the oval mufflers?[/i:49e5a1f7af][/b:49e5a1f7af]&lt;/font&gt;"

The oval muffler on "1011" wasn't on very after we brought it home.

Here are a couple of short videos of "1011" with the oval muffler.&lt;iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JUu-nWJhcb8" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;

&lt;iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/v9V79lUUdBo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;

Here is a video of "1011" with the round muffler.&lt;iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GPZqbgI8C2M" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;

"[b:49e5a1f7af][i:49e5a1f7af]&lt;font color="#6699ff"&gt;Do you have a PDF of the parts book?[/i:49e5a1f7af][/b:49e5a1f7af]&lt;/font&gt;"

Yes.

Send me an email by clicking the [u:49e5a1f7af][b:49e5a1f7af]&lt;font color="#6699ff"&gt;[Send Email][/b:49e5a1f7af]&lt;/font&gt;[/u:49e5a1f7af] hyperlink in the bottom right corner of this reply.

Why are so many tractors missing the fenders ?
 

Hope you get some good enjoyment out of your 70 gas. I picked mine up earlier this summer and I have really liked it. Had some fun tedding oats hay earlier this year but for now its just a show tractor. As was noted, I like having the fenders on it as it completes the look.
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I'm not any good at embedding these videos.
https://youtu.be/gRzNIASShH8
 

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