Heat exchange valve, JD 60 manifold, how high should it be?

pmarkel · Feb 2, 2018

Installed a new manifold on my JD 60 earlier this week. I am a little concerned about the heat exchange valve. The old frozen one sat about flush with the manifold. The new one from Steiner won't snug up in the clamp until it is quite higher than the manifold. Is this going to be a problem or is it normal? Thanks,

Pete

PJH · Feb 2, 2018

I'm glad you posted that question and picture!

I have a brand new one in a box in the shop. I'd better see if it fits like that too. I checked the part numbers, but I didn't check the fit.

I've never seen one seat that high. I put a new manifold on my 50 not long ago, and it seats what I would call normal.

matthies · Feb 2, 2018

I bought one from steiners for a 50, it didn't come that high but it wouldn't seal. They took it back thinking I would get a didn't one, but they filed and tried to lap it together. After a few hours of running it, it did form and seal, but was one heck of a inconvenience to get it to work. I'd send your pic to the outfit you bought it from.

John Deere D · Feb 2, 2018

IS The ?TAPPER PER FOOT? of the new manifold (bore were the heat valve is located) the same ?TAPPER PER FOOT?as the old manifold (bore were the heat valve is located) were the heat valve is located?
If the point on the spectrum of the said tapper per foot is a little further up the tapper towards the larger end of said tapper per foot causing the heat valve to protrude as you have commented, the heat valve shall still work fine. If the Heat valve touches the bridge that applies tension on heat valve I would grind a 45 deg corner on the heat valve.
Now if the TAPPER FOOT is NOT the same in the NEW MANIFOLD as the OLD MANIFOLD then you may have to have the HEAT VALVE LAPPED to the same configuration as the bore of the MANIFOLD. I replaced a MANIFOLD on a JD 620. I used PRUSSIAN BLUING to check the fit of the HEAT VALVE in the MANIFOLD bore.

Bob....

John Deere D · Feb 2, 2018

Bluing:

Lapping compound:

Bob...

Mike M · Feb 2, 2018

I don't know about getting them to be too good of a taper fit ? Then it might NEVER move if you actually wanted to change it for hot & cold weather. Something to think about. The might make them to different taper than the hole for a reason ?

Mike(NEOhio) · Feb 2, 2018

Well, it's from Steiner. I got a manifold for an AC G from them and it wouldn't fit.

PJH · Feb 2, 2018

Here's a picture of the heat valve on the new manifold that I'm gonna put on my 630.

It sits a little proud, but not as much as yours. The new one that I put on my 50 sits flush with the manifold surface. I got both of mine from the same place that you got yours.

BushogPapa · Feb 3, 2018

While you have the chance, make a Stainless plate the thickness of the gasket to close that Clutch-side heat passage..

It will keep the passage open and it won"t split open later..will run cooler, too..

PJH · Feb 3, 2018

Thanks for the tip Ron - you're full of good ideas! I think I have the perfect piece of stainless in my scrap pile. I never have turned one of those heat valves, in fact - the one on the 630 right now hasn't had the little arch clamp on it for 40+ years.

Heat exchange valve, JD 60 manifold, how high should it be?

pmarkel

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PJH

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matthies

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John Deere D

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John Deere D

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Mike M

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Mike(NEOhio)

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PJH

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BushogPapa

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PJH

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