John Deere 4010/20 Questions

3020G

Member
I learned from your guys input that I don’t want a gas 4010 or 4020 but I have a few other question I thought might be better off in their own thread.

I’m looking for a 4010/20 because I want something that’s 80-100 horsepower to do some fall plowing with 4-16’s 14’ disk (for now) plant with a 6r30” planter and mow hay with a 9’ haybine and possibly square bale with a kicker and wagon.

I can’t afford to go out and buy a $10,000 tractor but I do want something that I can rely on.

How much work would it be to add a secound remote to a 10 or 20 series tractor? (I need two)

How much would an engine overhaul cost?

And how much work would it be to convert a wide front tractor to a narrow front end?

You guys have been a big help I appreciate it.
 
Adding a second remote will most likely be several hundred dollars depending how it is sourced and either used or rebuilt. An overhaul not involving machine shop work or much beyond sleeves, pistons, bearings, will be easily over 1,000 dollars and depending on who you price and the relative quality above 1,500 dollars. This is also just your labor figured at zero cost and not a dealer or shop where they may get 100 dollars per hour. Just my opinion but I think the WFE's off of New Gen tractors have gone down in value and in a swap might net you 5-6 hundred dollars depending whether straight NFE or Rollamatic. Guys such Tim S can advise on the best brands for rebuild kits and be more precise on cost. NFE aside it probably will be more cost effective to buy a 4010 or 4020 that has a good history and 2 remotes.
 
I have a 4020 gas and for what little I do it has been a VERY GOOD choice.
Seeing what you intend to do I would suggest a diesel model like about everyone else will. Early 4020 seems to be coming down in price. I'd look for one equipped like you need it and then find one that does not need the engine overhauled right away. I would shy away from a 4010 because of the pto issues they have. Why go looking for trouble ? Get the 4020 and be done with it.
 
Engine overhaul around $5000 and that was a few years back.
It costs too much to add a second remote on early 4020....
time wise.
A tricycle will mash down your hay swath. Why do you want one?
You must love work.
Shop around for what you want instead of modifying something.
 
I added a second remote on a 3020, and third remotes on a 4430 and 4450. Dealing with salvage yards, they say they sell for half of dealer cost. Not so on remotes- more like 2/3 of dealer parts. It"s not a hard job to do, but you won"t get buy for a few hundred bucks- more like 700.
 
I could probably get by with a Fasse Valve, how much would one cost? I know on a Massey we can put a remote in cheaper than the fasse valve. How much are they selling for now?

I want a narrow front because that just the front end I like having on a tractor. I would order one new that way if I could. I've just always liked them.

I would have always figured it would be cheaper to buy a tractor that needs work and/or overhaul compared to one that does not. I apologize for my ignorance on the matter.
 
Usually cheaper to buy what you want.The narrow front will be tougher but you can buy a good narrow front for around $200 and sell your JD wide front if good for $800+.Most tractors don't need overhauled.I just sold a very nice 68 4020 that needed nothing for $9K.it had 2scvs W.F.
 
A lot of the 4020's sold around here had narrow fronts and two sets of remotes. I have two of them. I have heard guys talk about narrow fronts in hay, but I haven't had a problem. I like a narrow front for round baling. It seems to make the hay feed better. I have a IH 766 narrow front too. I mow with it. Narrow fronts are great for backing wagons.
 
IMHO, you will spend 10K to get a good running tractor in that HP range, parts can be in the thousands for the green machines.
 
No, that isn't the case unless you can do all the work yourself, and then it is questionable. Buy the best you can afford, it will be the cheapest in the long run.
 

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