John Deere 60 manifold replacement and clean up

pmarkel

Member
Changing out the manifolds on my 60 that had developed an exhaust leak over the summer. I cut and chiseled the old manifold to get access to the studs which came out with out much trouble. What is the best way to clean out the head and get any debris that could have fallen in during removal of the old manifold? I realize I will have to pull the head if the manifold surface is too warped or pitted. Should I pull it anyway in order to clean out any metal debris? Thanks,

Pete
 
About all you can do is get the vac out like Mike said, or pull the head. It doesn’t take a very big piece of junk in the cylinder to make it knock. My 630 got to knocking when it sucked in a tiny little choke plate screw. It only knocked at wide open throttle but after a few minutes of part throttle an exhaust valve stuck open for a couple of pops and the knock went away when it blew the screw out into the muffler.
 
The 620 & 630 models are tight clearances in there from the piston to the head, as you found out. A model 60 has a lot more room in there.
I worked on a model 620 that did the exact thing as yours sucked in a screw. I also had another that the piston rings were so worn out they broke and a small piece wore its way thru and got hammered in between the piston and the head.
 
before pulling the head you can get one of those flexible viewers and check inside the cylinders...maybe there isn't anything but you might also be able to retrieve debrie though the hole with one of those small grabbers...would beat the heck out of pulling the head....you could also put a bunch of air in there and blow it out....
 

New JD 60 manifold..remove the "Heat Valve" and separate the Heat passage across the manifold...

I cut a Stainless Steel plate to replace that clutch-side gasket..

Once you have the manifold cleaned up AND Match the ports to the Head, put it together with the "Heat Valve " in the "Cold" Position..

Keeps that passage clean and it will not fill and split open later...also makes the manifold run cooler...

Carefully Straight-Edge those exhaust port heights...any erosion from leaking guarantees they will again...
 
I've got a huge file that I can run across all the surface. I put rags into holes and then vacumn before pulling out.. Getting the head surface even is all you're doing at the machine shop....
 
Put the new manifold on and ran briefly. There was a .025 gap between the head and the new manifold without the gasket so I imagine I will be pulling the head before too long any how. It seems like the stud furnished with the heat exchange clamp is too short because it draws the valve up considerably above the manifold.
 
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