1020 John Deere tractor power steering

D Blattner

New User
I bought a 1020 with manual steering, unfortunately, it also has a loader. While I like the tractor, it is hard to steer with a full bucket.
I have seen the add on PS it also says not good for use with a loader. I take this to mean the pump is too small for the loads and pressures it will encounter with the loader.
Is it possible to add factory power steering by adding the PS column and tapping into the hydraulic lines for an oil supply and pressure? Are the columns the same bolt pattern? Or is there more to this than I understand?
 
Welcome to YT
I see no reason why the factory closed-center power steering valve can't be installed on a manual steering 1020 UNLESS your tractors clutch housing doesn't have the galley for returning PS oil to the trans. case. What's your tractor's serial number?

Back in the 70's I installed factory steering valve on a 3 cyl 830 & it operated correctly. But this PS was the open-center type not closed-center
 
Tx Jim: is it possible to drill the clutch housing for the oil return? I have a customer that wants to add ps to his 1020. Also thinking that
you need to add a priority valve?
 
If your serial number is above 45200 the hole should be there. You can add the priority valve but often people do not. That valve can come off of about any utility tractor and it sets under your right side foot rest. I have a 1520 that we will be adding power steering to sometime and have added it to some 1020's in the past. I did see there are now brand new steering assemblies on Ebay for sale. I usually get them off parts tractors and pay $3-500 for good ones and get the lines as well if it is a three cylinder parts tractor. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 13:17:05 01/28/18) Tx Jim: is it possible to drill the clutch housing for the oil return? I have a customer that wants to add ps to his 1020. Also thinking that
you need to add a priority valve?

I think OP's clutch housing will have the PS oil return galley. Due to the PS oil return galley making a curve after it leaves steering valve I think drilling passageway would not be a good option.

Priority valve would only be required if attempting to operate loader & steering at the same time.
 
OK, thanks for the info for the drilling, I had never looked at the routing. So another thought for return oil. Could I use the side plate
from an open center steering (earlier) tractor and plumb a line from the return port to sump?
 
(quoted from post at 11:36:48 01/28/18) If your serial number is above 45200 the hole should be there. You can add the priority valve but often people do not. That valve can come off of about any utility tractor and it sets under your right side foot rest. I have a 1520 that we will be adding power steering to sometime and have added it to some 1020's in the past. I did see there are now brand new steering assemblies on Ebay for sale. I usually get them off parts tractors and pay $3-500 for good ones and get the lines as well if it is a three cylinder parts tractor. Tom

Tom
The kits on Ebay read "for tractors without a loader" unless I have missed one? Parts tractors where I am in Canada are hard to find.I would gladly buy an E Bay kit if I knew for sure it would work with a full bucket. So far I have been told they would not, I am waiting for another reply from another seller. That's why I was wondering if anyone had replaced manual steering with factory PS and if it was even possible. Thanks for the reply.
 
You do not want the kit. Type in 1020 steering valve and the colum shows up. One was priced at $621 but you will still need fittings and lines. I had a welding shop cut my line and weld in a fitting. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 19:35:43 01/28/18) You do not want the kit. Type in 1020 steering valve and the colum shows up. One was priced at $621 but you will still need fittings and lines. I had a welding shop cut my line and weld in a fitting. Tom
Thanks Tom
I still have not found the $621.00 valve but I have found the $800.00 one, ha ha. As far as lines go, I am a welding shop with access to hydraulic fittings and hoses at another shop down the road.
A welder I am, a mechanic, I am not. I'll go back and find the repair manual download I seen a while back. That should make it easy.
I did see the hole in the valve for return oil (Ebay valve), my parts book sort of shows a hole in the case but I need to be sure.
Thanks to everyone for the help so far, I'm sure I'll have more questions.
 
Don't know where you are in Canada but Martins, near Chepstow, Ontario have a good supply of JD utility tractor parts.
 
No. This tractor was almost completely rebuilt by the last owner.
Other than a scrap bucket and bent loader the tractor is in good shape. I have already built a new bucket, rerouted new hoses from under the tractor, rebuilt the loader and built and mounted a grapple for it.
It starts and runs good, it's just hard to steer, if I have to I'll leave it as is before I trade it for one with PS. Besides, used tractors in good shape in the 30 to 60HP range are like hen's teeth around here. I could sell it but then I would be back to where I was before, looking at 25-$40000.00 tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 07:19:05 01/29/18) Don't know where you are in Canada but Martins, near Chepstow, Ontario have a good supply of JD utility tractor parts.
The other end of Ontario, across the border from International Falls Mn. About 12 or 1300 miles from Toronto. I will check them out though. Thanks
 
I changed one out on a 1020 one time. I put a different used power steering column on it. Bolts right on. It had the correct oil passages so no problem there. I also added the proportioning valve. I had new lines made
also.
 
That's good to know, I bought a service manual so I can see what I'm getting into. I don't like surprises! Now I need to search for a valve. I found a couple used ones but,,,,, I'm nervous, think I'll just spend the money and buy new/rebuilt. Thanks for the info.
 

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