2355 won't start

Charles Branch · Jan 25, 2018

I recently bought a 2355, which is pretty new by my standards. After sitting a few months it would not start--not even a click of the solenoid. I charged the battery and cleaned the battery cables, but still no results. It starts just fine if I jump the solenoid. I once had an intermittent starting problem on my 2130 that turned out to be a loose connection on the neutral safety interlock switch. I assume the 2355 has a similar switch, and I think I remember the seller telling me that the clutch also has to be depressed. Are there any other similar interlocks that I should be checking? I only used the tractor a few times last fall, and I recall once before having trouble starting it and then remembering something stupid that I had just forgotten to do.

BCinNY · Jan 25, 2018

My 2355 has to have the clutch pedal down and the shift levers in the neutral position.

Tech 7 · Jan 25, 2018

Only nuetral start switch is on top of the rockshaft hsg at the very front. Open station requires removal of the tin shield, cab requires pulling the floor plate out to access.

Tx Jim · Jan 25, 2018

(quoted from post at 12:28:24 01/25/18) Only nuetral start switch is on top of the rockshaft hsg at the very front. Open station requires removal of the tin shield, cab requires pulling the floor plate out to access.

Ditto. No need to depress clutch pedal to start engine on a JD 55 series utility tractor.

buickanddeere · Jan 25, 2018

Not a bad idea , particularly in winter to depress the clutch pedal while cranking .

centash · Jan 25, 2018

Check the starter relay, upper right side of cowl. Clutch does not need to depressed to start.
Ben

Tx Jim · Jan 25, 2018

(quoted from post at 13:53:36 01/25/18)
Not a bad idea , particularly in winter to depress the clutch pedal while cranking .

IMHO rather than unnecessarily depressing clutch pedal relocate negative battery(s) cable attachment from battery box to starter mounting bolt. PS: destroking frt hyd pump will help Winter cranking of engine a lot more than depressing clutch pedal

buickanddeere · Jan 25, 2018

(quoted from post at 16:14:13 01/25/18)

(quoted from post at 13:53:36 01/25/18)
Not a bad idea , particularly in winter to depress the clutch pedal while cranking .

Click to expand...

IMHO rather than unnecessarily depressing clutch pedal relocate negative battery(s) cable attachment from battery box to starter mounting bolt. PS: destroking frt hyd pump will help Winter cranking of engine a lot more than depressing clutch pedal

Depressing the clutch pedal while cranking is in addition to the destoker and the improved ground path.

JohnS1970 · Jan 25, 2018

Our 2355 did the same thing recently. Ours is an open station and either fuse 5 or 6 (can't remember which) corroded enough it wouldn't pass current to energize the solenoid but you could bypass to start. If I remember correctly ours uses a Bosch type relay for the starter relay. Used it one day and the next day nothing. I'd bet it's a corroded or dirty connection that wont pass current and a wiggle will cure it.

Charles Branch · Jan 26, 2018

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I think I have enough to go on now. I did manage to get one field bush hogged by just jumping the solenoid, but that does make me nervous. Until I get it fixed properly I am at least leaving the kill switch engaged after each use.

Hotflashjr · Jan 26, 2018

Jim has long recommended moving the cables. We did this on our 2550, 2555, 2440. It makes a huge difference in starting performance on these tractors. Get 0 gauge cable and solder ends, not clamp on ends. Our 2550 with loader was the worst bunch of the group. Even with a destroke kit on it turning the steering wheel while cranking would help it fire right up.

KYpatriot · Jan 27, 2018

(quoted from post at 04:00:14 01/26/18) Thanks for all the helpful replies. I think I have enough to go on now. I did manage to get one field bush hogged by just jumping the solenoid, but that does make me nervous. Until I get it fixed properly I am at least leaving the kill switch engaged after each use.

Yeah be awful careful when bypassing that it really is in neutral. Good way to get run over.

Charles Branch · Jan 27, 2018

Yeah be awful careful when bypassing that it really is in neutral. Good way to get run over.

That's why it makes me nervous, and why I leave the kill switch engaged after each use. When I had the problem with a loose neutral safety switch on my 2130, I did a little research on accidents caused by people starting tractors from the ground, and that got my attention.

Charles Branch · Jan 20, 2020

(quoted from post at 17:03:10 01/25/18) I recently bought a 2355, which is pretty new by my standards. After sitting a few months it would not start--not even a click of the solenoid. I charged the battery and cleaned the battery cables, but still no results. It starts just fine if I jump the solenoid.

This is an old posting, and I finally found the problem. There are two short cables with connectors between the neutral start switch and the instrument cluster. The cables had obviously been altered, but appeared OK. But one of the cables tested infinite resistance. I checked the wire more carefully and found a cold solder joint. Redid the wires with new connectors, and it's now back in business. I'm posting this just to remind folks that a wire that looks fine may not be--especially in an old tractor that has many non-factory alterations performed by God knows who.

2355 won't start

Charles Branch

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BCinNY

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Tech 7

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Tx Jim

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buickanddeere

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centash

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Tx Jim

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buickanddeere

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Charles Branch

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Hotflashjr

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KYpatriot

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Charles Branch

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Charles Branch

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