4440 thermostat question

KYpatriot

Member
Hello gentlemen the heat on my 4440 hasnt been working that great on these cold nights. When feeding cattle, the engine just barely gets to the green band on the in cab temp gauge. I recently replaced the thermostats when I was doing an overdue coolant change. Thinking one of them might be sticking open.

Im going to replace them to see if that helps, and noticed in the parts manual that you can get a 192 degree thermostat or a 180 degree. Currently it has the 180s, do yall think it might help if I put in the 192s? I dont do heavy tillage. The hardest I work this thing is a 15ft batwing bushhog on our hills around here, or baling hay whivh ought to be easy on it.

So anybody see a problem with the 192s? I thought it might actually help the tractor since it barely gets to temp in the winter with the light work I have for it.
 
I just let the engine run with the cap off the radiator
until the engine comes up to temperature on my
pickup there are plugs along the top of the head
that you loosen to purge the air . Somebody that
knows more about your specific model can probably
tell us more about bleeding your system
 
You do not need to bleed JD 4440 after changing the coolant. I usually run the higher temperature thermostats on them. You need to make sure the coolant level completely full or you will not have heat. I hate to asked this but did you accidently put them in backwards??? Some of them you can do that. LOL

I would check the water temperature with a inferred thermometer. Then at the hoses going to and from the cab. If the water is the same temperature than your getting flow. Hinge the roof top up and remove the top metal cover.( I know lots of bolts LOL) Make sure the heater coil is clean. Also check the temperature control valve. They can stick and the cable bend so you think your turning the water on but your not.

Most of the time a JD sound Guard cab heater will run you out even if it is below zero.

P.S. If the cab interior is gone that make heating and cooling harder. The foam padding is a lot of the sound and heat insulation in the cab.
 
In North Eastern Alberta we use 192 all the time in winter and even put heat houser on. Good to below 40 cows got to eat.
 

Ok thanks. I will run the higher temp thermostat and check the temps on the hoses. Doesnt sound like the 192 thermostat would hurt anything.

Andy I cant imagine 40 below. Dont know how the cows make it. I felt sorry for them the other night at 3 below, which is awful cold for Kentucky.

The wierd thing about my heat is that it worked fine two nights in a row after I put in the new thermostats and then the third time just seemed to never get past about mid range on the heat.
 
It was -40 only for one night a week ago -20-25 and down to that temp in a three day period, the last 5 days coming to +25 and +30 now. Week prior to Christmas and for about 10 days weather was -12 to -25 at night. Hear Florida got cool too.
 

The John Deere heater valves are junk! They will usually turn on ok...but often fail to close completely...just kills the AC when the heater isn't quite shut off.

As far as not warming up enough for cold weather...make for sure the radiator is full. Cut a piece of cardboard as big as you can slip in between the oil cooler and radiator...see if that helps
 
Run the high temp stats . I used to drill a 1/8 hole in them so the air would push out . Also the engine needs to run over 1500 so the water pump will push . Also in the below 0* I would cover the radiator , those diesels don't make much heat unless they are working .
 
(quoted from post at 10:31:36 01/21/18)
The John Deere heater valves are junk! They will usually turn on ok...but often fail to close completely...just kills the AC when the heater isn't quite shut off.

As far as not warming up enough for cold weather...make for sure the radiator is full. Cut a piece of cardboard as big as you can slip in between the oil cooler and radiator...see if that helps

That partial blockage of the rad can flex and fail the fan blades .
 

Nope, or only if the cardboard is not centered.
A fully blocked radiator core does not let any air trough, thus limiting the power used by the fan.
Reality with blocked fan duct is opposite than what many peoples think.
 
(quoted from post at 20:38:53 01/22/18)
I beleive the heater knob is connected straight to the valve with about a 4in rod.

2nm3p81.jpg


YEP, no cables or "flippers"!
 
Exactly!

It had me scratching my head many years ago when I was doing a current draw test on a blower motor. Everytime I restricted, or even completely covered, the blower housing outlet the amperage dropped! WTH? LOL

I was trying to compare the scenario with restricting the outlet of a hyd pump & couldn't wrap my head around what was happening.



(quoted from post at 06:03:42 01/24/18)
Nope, or only if the cardboard is not centered.
A fully blocked radiator core does not let any air trough, thus limiting the power used by the fan.
Reality with blocked fan duct is opposite than what many peoples think.
 

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