430W Hydraulics

MeanGene1

Member
Just got the 430W home- has not been worked for a while as the original owner is quite elderly, and his son hasn't been around it for recent history. A Dearborn plow came as part of the deal, see we figured hook it up and on the trailer, Has the dual TOM, arms are not pinned together- getting used to that system. So the right lever moves on its own, raising the hitch- doesn't seem right. We have no idea what kind of oil has been put in it, so I figured first step would be correct oil and level. Read the thread below and did a little research, figuring I could use Hygard/ Hytran type oil, as I have a full drum of Chevron's finest. I see recommendations of engine oil etc., rather have hydraulic oil as I may want to add a remote and be compatible with my other stuff. I remember our old 420 in the 60s-70s had a rear remote added, and my foggy memory says we used Hytran in it (gramps had an IH dealership, and we had a pair of 706Ds). So Hygard/Hytran type will be OK? Working on the little idiosyncrasies of this system, but is the outer lever moving on its own normal, and is there a correct procedure that eliminates that, or is something wrong? Fired it up on the trailer yesterday, and the lever went back, hitch raised, and if you push the lever ahead, it goes right back on its own? Not real safe...
 
The only thing wrong with using Hyguard in your tractor is there is 50 + years of old oil and old parts in it that the Hyguard will start cleaning as soon as it's poured in. Just like detergent motor oil it will cause leaks both internally and externally.

Hyguard is as good as you can get and should you decide to replace ALL those 50+ year old seals from front to back I would recommend using it in a heartbeat. BUT if you're planning on using it as is you will be a lot happier with plain old non detergent motor oil in 20wt or 30wt. If I'm not mistaken regular Hyguard is the same viscosity as 20wt oil. JMO
 
On the lever moving on its own you just need to adjust or repair the friction disk that makes the lever not move freely. As for oil I will second 20W motor oil if your not totally overhauling the unit. The hyguard will leak with the old seals.
 
Ah, a friction clutch- already got the one on the throttle limbered up, would not idle down at first, popped back up- behaving well now. Problem with the oil is we have no idea what is in it now, the old guy's memory is a little fuzzy- hoping, again, to be able to add a rear remote to be compatible with my other stuff, which all have the good trans/hyd oil in them. It is very clean inside the housing. Also need to free up the brakes and such, mostly TLC stuff
 
We have a 40 W and it had some hydraulic problems & was bobbing badly. I removed & went through the Dual TOM putting in new seals & lapping the checks into their seats. Put new seals in the pump & filled it with Hygard. Works fine though it doesn't quite have the lifting power it HAD using 20-20W. It doesn't growl in the winter and yes the rock shafts still leak.
 
That's what's in mine for the exact reason you stated. Has a remote and have other tractors that share equipment. Haven't had a problem, but only gets a few hours put on it per year.
 

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