70 diesel conversion to electric start.

55 50 Ron

Well-known Member
Well, I was hoping to find out via a Parts Catalog, but as I posted in my previous message, can't get PCs to download.

So my question is, what, if anything, is available as a parts kit to do the conversion from V-4 engine to 12 V electric start. I know there is a casting required (which we have) to hold the electric starter. What might be available to hold the diesel engine speed control (where it was formerly mounted on the starting engine)? Is there a plate available to cover the hole in the diesel block where the starting engine coolant was connected (I realize this plate would be easy to make)?

I'm a retired electrical engineer so understand how to do the electrical.

Any general advice (concerning mechnical) on what to do or not to do?

Again thanks.
 
The 70 diesel never was sold with electric start. You will have to use 720 or 730 electric start parts.

I'n sure it can be done, would be easier if you had a 720 or 730 electric start to look at. I don't have one at this location (it is out of state) so I can't send you pictures.
 
There is a guy here in Ohio that used to advertise in a magazine that sold these as kits. See if he is still in business. Clyde Wilson, Wakeman, Ohio (419) 668-4595
 
You can go and hack up a starting engine tractor with an electric start. As to why I don't know.
The starting engine adds an unique character an electric start doesn't have. The electric start doesn't start in cool or cold weather like a starting engine does either.
By the time you do the conversion without short cuts so it will start reliably. Then swap over the hood, dash, battery box, cooling, intake etc. So it doesn't look like some Father Fix hack job.
You will be in more time and money than it would take the revive even a ruined starting engine.
Remember it's going to eat a couple of group 31 batterie$ every 3-4 years.
 
I agree about the character. We have a black dash 820 and no way would I ever ditch the motor for electric start. People who have never seen one of these get a kick out of the cute little V4 under the hood. And either we are lucky or the problems with pony motors are overblown because ours has never given any problems. We did put new rings and redo the heads after we got the 820 but thats because it sat unused for 15 years with a rock on the exhaust and there was a little water in the motor.
 
Not this one! It is a 12 V starter. Also it's a hobby tractor that will never have to start in cold weather.
 
Well not necessarily true if you know the background of this particular tractor. There won't be much "swapping" of stuff. I have seen another 70 with this same converion to a 12 V electric start and it works reliably.
 
see told you Glen would go crazy he he just dont get that some have a different need for thier tractor than he does
 
The engine speed control will stay in the same spot on the right side of the dash. You must be thinking of the decompression lever on the left side. An early 70 may of had it attached to the pont motor ? I think 720's used the dash panel and and ran a rod through there.The electric start factory models used a foot pedal attached through the tranny top cover.
Some fabrication will be the easiest/cheapest way.
 
Having the experience of growing up on a dairy farm in Michigan where the main tractor "HAD" to start every morning to either haul manure or grind feed I am very prejudice to that little pony engine. I never remember it letting us down in more than twenty years of all kinds of weather. I would consider getting someone that knows what they are doing and repair the pony rather than the conversion that was never meant to be on a "70" in the first place. You would certainly get your money back in resale value as people will shy away from aftermarket additions just like they do in the aftermarket wide fronts and three point hitches.
 
Mike,
I know the diesel engine throttle lever will stay on the right side of the dash. My question was for the diesel throttle transfer point that mounted to the left side of the starting engine. That goes away with the starting engine so some type of bracket must be re-installed there. This tractor has S/N 7024067, a 1955 model. Thanks.
 
I just coveted mine to electric start 12v,best thing we did so far. I got mine from Wilson Farms just out side from Fredricktown Ohio. It was 750 bucks but come with every thing u need but a battery.Theres anther guy in ohio selling a kit but it was 1500 bucks.

We are running 1 1000 cca battery and it fires right up
 
I seem to remember my 720 D with factory electric start having something attached to the governor housing for the throttle lever transfer ?

If you could get a look at both parts catalogs it may help you work out what is needed as they have good pictures in them.
 
I bought one from Wilson farms in 2007 and it has been working great - good batteries and cables and starts in winter. It was $750 and a day of work to install. I like it A LOT!
 
It's your tractor, go ahead and hack it up. Just make certain to keep every little starting engine part in a secure crate. Label the parts and tell your heirs where it is stored safe and dry. That way the tractor will be worth thousands more at the estate sale.
I've had more than one eager seller try to sell me an "Improvement". A "farmer fix" conversion to electric start. Didn't even have the compression release operational. They didn't use a beefy starter. And the lone battery was small enough it fit into the 6V battery box.Walmart battery cables too.
Did they ever get a pout on when I dropped the offer price $3500. They couldn't even grasp the concept the tractor had been devalued. They seemed to think a return to a starting engine would only be a few hundred bucks.
Of course only a few starting engine components remained sunk in the mud behind the shed.
 
12V starters that can do the job in order of power are the new 44MT, 39MT and 42MT. The 44MT is an outstanding piece of engineering. Compact and very high powered with modest current draw.
Anything less, keep a tow chain handy.
2/00 cables with soldered or swagged ends.
One group 31 battery will do in warm weather, but two are better. Very high currents through a battery does cause wear and tear. One of the reasons why a battery goes "boom" for no apparent reason.
The compression release should be re-worked to be usable. Most folk don't appreciate the reduction in engine and starter wear. By rolling the engine over without compression or fuel until oil pressure appears.
 
Hallo 55 50 Ron / Markuss / 70Jerrid / James Lieb!

Can anyone of you see what the specific Starter manufacturer and model is in the kits that you used when doing the 12V conversion on your tractors?

Particularly the number of teeth - please.
I presume Delco?

I recently brought a 70 diesel for the price of scrap metal, but ALL the copper had been stripped, plug wires, coils, generators, starters, and many pony motor parts as well. So I figured that the easiest for me to get the 70 started again would be to go for converting her to electric start, and at the same time also go to 12V.

It would seem that Clyde Wilson had sadly passed away last year, so to get one of his kits is supposedly out of the question?

Thus leaving me with no option but to go and get a starter straight from Delco, but then I need to know the exact model to specify.

Thanks in advance

Regards

Gert van Biljon
 
(quoted from post at 14:10:41 10/21/11) I just coveted mine to electric start 12v,best thing we did so far. I got mine from Wilson Farms just out side from Fredricktown Ohio. It was 750 bucks but come with every thing u need but a battery.Theres anther guy in ohio selling a kit but it was 1500 bucks.

We are running 1 1000 cca battery and it fires right up
Try that in the winter .
 

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