Splitting 4020

dwmatcek

New User
Gonna be splitting my 1968,,, 4020..Have a oil leak on rear seal of engine or front seal on rear end or both. I am sure it has gotten on clutch. Will be looking to replace all items that are needed since I will be going to the trouble of splitting. Gonna make some stands to hold up front end. Will be doing it in my shop with a concrete floor,chain hoist, floor jacks ect. Any items I need to watchout for, or helpful hints would be appreciated. Thanks D :idea: :idea:
 
One thing that is often missed is the fiber washer that sets behind the pilot bearing to keep the clutch shaft from coming forward and getting a bur on it. I always have two of the trans shaft seals as if I don't I will damage one installing it. Check the condition of the three pins in the flywheel because if they wear enough the clutch assembly can hang up on them. Follow the service manual and take your time and you will be fine. I have a 4020 coming in next week for a clutch. Tom
 
Its very easy to install the clutch disc in backwards. The tractor will get about 3/8 inch from bolting back together then stop. I have seen guys use the bolts to then pull the two halves back tight. Usally this wrecks the disc. Never force it tight . Wiggle n push. Use the bolts to hold what you have gained, but never pull with the bolts. I have two long 3/4 bolts with the heads cut off to align the front to back. Al
 
There's a tool you need from John Deere to install the rear seal. My dealer was nice and loaned it to me. When I split my 4020, I made a stand that bolted to the front half and it had caster wheels to move away from the back. There was a bottle jack under the rear casting for adjusting height, both rear wheels were blocked and a jack stand placed under the drawbar. You can rotate the PTO shaft to help with reassembly. I got it split by myself but had some help when moving it back together.
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I did not have the factory John Deere tool for the
rear main seal but I did have one for a 5.9
Cummins ant it worked perfect that about 14 years
ago and still no leaks
 
The rear main seal tool I made one easy enough with a chuck of well casing and the lathe. Main dimension you need is the amount the step on the end of it is that pushes the inner wear sleeve on and at the same time holds the seal in the right spot.
I also made a clutch finger height gauge too. The dealer was good enough to let me look at theirs so I traced it onto some cardboard and used that for a pattern.
If yours happens to have a metallic clutch then possibly the oil won't hurt it ?
 
I have a store bought tool that works great..
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I was going to order that from John Deere but it was two weeks away and I needed the tractor so I used what I had if I had the time I would have got the tool from the dealer
 
I think it was about $150,,and I have changed a lot of them with out a tool in the old days,,this one works great..
 
When installing the rear main seal, did you install with the cover plate as 1 unit. Or was the cover plate put on after the rear main was installed on the crank?
 
When installing the rear main seal, did you install with the cover plate as 1 unit. Or was the cover plate put on after the rear main was installed on the crank?
The instructions come with the seal. They will instruct you to install the seal housing first using the outer part of tool to center seal housing around crankshaft and at same time squaring the bottom of housing with block surface. One housing is installed and bolt torqued, Then both pieces of tool are used to install the seal assembly in housing and on crank at same time in one simple process. Its quick, It's simple and it is very accurate.
 

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