I got lots of responses on this topic so I thought I would post an update. It will also help me summarize my results.
Picture 1 is laser RPM sensor on the Crank Shaft Dampener.
Picture 2 are leads to sense battery voltage, right hand 12 volt battery connected in parallel with left hand battery.
Picture 3 is BatteryMinder connected to left hand battery for charging over night.
Picture 4 are leads to sense the voltage the starter is seeing when cranking. Green wire to starter bolt, Red to Starter voltage.
I will summarize this as three tests:
Test 1, Coupler on Main Pump Connected.
No Load Battery Voltage, 13.96 Volts, charged over night on BatteryMinder.
Starter Voltage while cranking, 10-11 volts, lots of ripple. DMM.
RPM: 88
Turned the steering wheel in both directions, no cranking difference, front wheels turned with steering wheel.
Test 2, Coupler on Main Pump NOT Connected.
No Load Battery Voltage, 12.82 Volts, this test immediately followed Test 1.
Starter Voltage while cranking, 10.9-11 volts, much reduced ripple, DMM
RPM: 134
Did not move Steering Wheel.
Test 3 (There were two cranking events in this test.), Coupler on Main Pump Connected.
No Load Battery Voltage, 12.64 Volts, this test immediately followed Test 2.
Starter Voltage while cranking, 9.8-10.1 volts, much reduced ripple, DMM. (Reconnected DMM and cranked a second time to get this reading.)
Battery Voltage while cranking, 10.4-10.5 volts. (First Test 3 Cranking.)
RPM: 82
Did not move Steering Wheel.
Batteries: Northern
CCA at 32 F: 560
CCA at 0 F: 475
Reserve Capacity: 120
Age unknown.
Starter, Supplied by All States at 24 volt to 12 volt conversion 2 years ago. Starter went to shop this last summer, insulation issues repaired. No further detail supplied.
Connections: Battery Post and lugs abrasively cleaned. Voltage drop in both hot and ground legs together did not exceed a volt during several checks of this drop. I am thinking the connections are good.
My Comments:
Owner would like to go to the larger rectangular batteries like you find on a 50 series tractor, 1140 CCA at 32 F. JD Strongbox battery, long and thin, would supply almost 200 additional CCA (each battery) at each temperature over the long and thin Northern Batteries. While the Northern batteries seem to be doing reasonably well, I plan to suggest the JD Strongbox batteries. I won't have to build a new battery box.
I rather suspect the starter as the bigger issue. While it turns, it turns slow even with over 10 volts at the starter. Disconnecting the Main Pump did increase RPMS but still below the 150-200 RPM someone suggested. I wish I had a DC current sensor.
Someone commented how small the battery appeared. Someone commented these "conversion" starters were 24v starters converted to 12 volts. Can anyone confirm this? The replacement batteries the Dealership recommended were much longer, AR501444 or AR501446. I'll be recommending one of these, perhaps with the Northern Batteries first.
I would appreciate any comments regarding my tests and comments. Perhaps something I did is not proper or there are other conclusions I am not seeing.
Now that I have the tractor running again I will continue my Power Steering Tests.
Recall I did an "air in the system" test, it failed.
I have followed on with a leakage test of the Steering Motor. The hose from the pinion cavity to the reservoir did not spill any oil with the tractor running and being steered. Even though we all agree the seals on the pinions are old they do not appear to be leaking under pressure. So this test passed.
Tomorrow I plan to run the procedure to get the air out of the system. If this does not solve my problem with the steering I will be contacting Tim S about "what's next" and the costs of possibly asking him to re-build the Steering Valve.
Thanks.
Paul
Picture 1 is laser RPM sensor on the Crank Shaft Dampener.
Picture 2 are leads to sense battery voltage, right hand 12 volt battery connected in parallel with left hand battery.
Picture 3 is BatteryMinder connected to left hand battery for charging over night.
Picture 4 are leads to sense the voltage the starter is seeing when cranking. Green wire to starter bolt, Red to Starter voltage.
I will summarize this as three tests:
Test 1, Coupler on Main Pump Connected.
No Load Battery Voltage, 13.96 Volts, charged over night on BatteryMinder.
Starter Voltage while cranking, 10-11 volts, lots of ripple. DMM.
RPM: 88
Turned the steering wheel in both directions, no cranking difference, front wheels turned with steering wheel.
Test 2, Coupler on Main Pump NOT Connected.
No Load Battery Voltage, 12.82 Volts, this test immediately followed Test 1.
Starter Voltage while cranking, 10.9-11 volts, much reduced ripple, DMM
RPM: 134
Did not move Steering Wheel.
Test 3 (There were two cranking events in this test.), Coupler on Main Pump Connected.
No Load Battery Voltage, 12.64 Volts, this test immediately followed Test 2.
Starter Voltage while cranking, 9.8-10.1 volts, much reduced ripple, DMM. (Reconnected DMM and cranked a second time to get this reading.)
Battery Voltage while cranking, 10.4-10.5 volts. (First Test 3 Cranking.)
RPM: 82
Did not move Steering Wheel.
Batteries: Northern
CCA at 32 F: 560
CCA at 0 F: 475
Reserve Capacity: 120
Age unknown.
Starter, Supplied by All States at 24 volt to 12 volt conversion 2 years ago. Starter went to shop this last summer, insulation issues repaired. No further detail supplied.
Connections: Battery Post and lugs abrasively cleaned. Voltage drop in both hot and ground legs together did not exceed a volt during several checks of this drop. I am thinking the connections are good.
My Comments:
Owner would like to go to the larger rectangular batteries like you find on a 50 series tractor, 1140 CCA at 32 F. JD Strongbox battery, long and thin, would supply almost 200 additional CCA (each battery) at each temperature over the long and thin Northern Batteries. While the Northern batteries seem to be doing reasonably well, I plan to suggest the JD Strongbox batteries. I won't have to build a new battery box.
I rather suspect the starter as the bigger issue. While it turns, it turns slow even with over 10 volts at the starter. Disconnecting the Main Pump did increase RPMS but still below the 150-200 RPM someone suggested. I wish I had a DC current sensor.
Someone commented how small the battery appeared. Someone commented these "conversion" starters were 24v starters converted to 12 volts. Can anyone confirm this? The replacement batteries the Dealership recommended were much longer, AR501444 or AR501446. I'll be recommending one of these, perhaps with the Northern Batteries first.
I would appreciate any comments regarding my tests and comments. Perhaps something I did is not proper or there are other conclusions I am not seeing.
Now that I have the tractor running again I will continue my Power Steering Tests.
Recall I did an "air in the system" test, it failed.
I have followed on with a leakage test of the Steering Motor. The hose from the pinion cavity to the reservoir did not spill any oil with the tractor running and being steered. Even though we all agree the seals on the pinions are old they do not appear to be leaking under pressure. So this test passed.
Tomorrow I plan to run the procedure to get the air out of the system. If this does not solve my problem with the steering I will be contacting Tim S about "what's next" and the costs of possibly asking him to re-build the Steering Valve.
Thanks.
Paul