435 gm engine adjustments

TIMAR

Member
Have had a 435 during in the shed for about 5 plus yrs. I bought from the original owners daughter. Her husband over hauled the engine, and tho it does run, it's still needs some adjustments. It doesn't start very well and runs rough unless at full throttle and won't idle.
Took it out if the shop today for a grease bath and was tinkering with the governor and such while it was running. Don't know why, but I put my hand over the air cleaner pipe and restricted the air to it and it started running smoother and actually would idle.
Any thoughts?
And yes I have the manuals. I just don't want to start randomly changing adjustments and to get the valve cover off it looks like I would have to take the HYD and power steering lines apart. Just don't want to do that if not needed.
 
You're running very lean. Either carb problem or vacuum leak. May be manifold gasket ect. I use either to find a vacuum leak though it is hazardous. Spray something flammable carb cleaner works over the manifold ect and see if the engine speeds up. If it does that's where the leak is. If you have exauste leaks I wouldn't try this and I would do it with the engine cold as the intake and exhaust are close together. I suppose if you have been running it today try the idle mix on the carb. Could be adjustment could be a jet plugged.
 
OK everything I just said is wrong. Make sure the blower is good order. A two stroke won't pull vacuum so it has to be force fed. Also make make sure there I good fuel supply to it. If both check out check rack adjustment. Sorry but valve cover has to come off for this. Ensued proper valve adjustment and that the fuel rack is hooked to the injectors properly and does not bind.
 
I never worked on a 435 but did some on a 2-71. The injector rack adjustment and timing are critical. Get a manual or someone who knows Detroits to help. The injector plungers must be set individually to a specific height and require a special tool.
 
The timing pin is critical for injector adjustment. Valves just require feeler gauges. I would Jo a visual inspection for binding proper instillation before I called anyone in. If anything isn't right a book and a timing pin is a must and someone with experience I better
 

they do not require a special tool. They just require a specific height on the injector and exhaust based off the flat area below the rocker, and that number is based on what you want to run it like. Height information is online in various places.
 
(quoted from post at 17:51:53 01/07/18) Have had a 435 during in the shed for about 5 plus yrs. I bought from the original owners daughter. Her husband over hauled the engine, and tho it does run, it's still needs some adjustments. It doesn't start very well and runs rough unless at full throttle and won't idle.
Took it out if the shop today for a grease bath and was tinkering with the governor and such while it was running. Don't know why, but I put my hand over the air cleaner pipe and restricted the air to it and it started running smoother and actually would idle.
Any thoughts?
And yes I have the manuals. I just don't want to start randomly changing adjustments and to get the valve cover off it looks like I would have to take the HYD and power steering lines apart. Just don't want to do that if not needed.

and your DANG DANG lucky the motor didnt run away on you after sitting for 5 years. detroits are notorious for injectors sticking. The only way to shut it down is to kill the air or take the fuel line off.

i would guess you have mud daubers in the air breather. I clean up the air breathing system, or just run the snot out of it for an hour, you would be surprised how much the will run better

detroits 2 cycle valves do not require feeler gauges....
 
Ya, I've had one of these before and have
heard about that that. I was ready with a
pipe cap for the intake
 

I am suspect of the detail, accuracy and how thorough the "rebuild" was. A set of rings and grinding the valves is not enough.
 
Been in a lot of them and I gotta ask a couple questions. How are you going to properly get your injector height without the proper timing pin? Timing pin on a Detroit it not for crank\cam position it is essentially a gauge that establishes the measurement you speak of. I'm sure you can make it run but for it to be exact you need the special tool aka timing pin. Next how are mud dobbers or blockage in the intake going to make it run lean? He stated by putting his hand over the air intake it ran better. That says lack of fuel or to much air. I don't see how a blockage in the air intake would cause either. I also will not speak for certain on that early a 53 series because I usually felt with later models but most Detroit's do require feeler gauges for the valves.
 
Haven't checked that yet. The manual I have gives the dimension of the injector set
Tool, so I should be able to use a digital caliper to check them
 
(quoted from post at 16:47:06 01/07/18 detroits are notorious for injectors sticking. The only way to shut it down is to kill the air or take the fuel line off.
It's the rack that sticks wide open when that happens.

(quoted from post at 16:47:06 01/07/18
detroits 2 cycle valves do not require feeler gauges....
And the exhaust valves do need feeler gauges - it's the intakes that don't need much work.

https://brandon314.files.wordpress....njector-and-governor-adjustment-procedure.pdf
 
Ya, really don't know for sure what was done. I asked him what injectors were in it
and if they were replaced and he didn't have the answer to that.
 
A depth mic maybe but a caliper no. You're measuring from a flat part of the head to top of injector. No place for top part of your caliper to go. For no more than they cost I would just spend the $10 online and have the right one but its your tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 20:42:40 01/07/18)
(quoted from post at 16:47:06 01/07/18 detroits are notorious for injectors sticking. The only way to shut it down is to kill the air or take the fuel line off.
It's the rack that sticks wide open when that happens.

(quoted from post at 16:47:06 01/07/18
detroits 2 cycle valves do not require feeler gauges....
And the exhaust valves do need feeler gauges - it's the intakes that don't need much work.

https://brandon314.files.wordpress....njector-and-governor-adjustment-procedure.pdf

yea i was only thinking about the injectors, to many things running through my head at one time, replaying issues i have had with them, rick and morty was on. i hate not having the edit feature. I fell off a loader that the motor was running away once...

I have used everything from a 1/4 pin cut to the depth i wanted to set the injectors to, to using a bolt and nut, they arent that mystical magical device, the ones you buy just have a narrow dowel cut to fit in the hole and an upper T kinda deal, for some reason i am thinking anywhere from 1.2" to 1.7" depending on how much smoke you want, its been a couple years since i have run injectors on one.

and jr1983, probably for the same reason the carb needs adjusted....Actually the one in particular i was thinking of had more issues than just air restrictions but reducing the air intake made it run better which lead me to pulling the intake systems and finding a lot of crap. It was also missing the fuel pressure orifice and had a very slight split in the second fuel filter so yes there was a lot more wrong with it than i remembered off the cuff.

The long and short is, its a two cycle detriot, it dont hardly get any easier to mess around with, just get it out, top off the oil, put your ear plugs in and run it around a couple hours and see what you end up with,
 
I still can't see where further restricting air making it run better would give the diagnosis of crap in the air system.
And like I said earlier you can make it run. Its just better to have the right tools. And yes initially I was thinking g of a gas g not a gm. Don't take away from what I said once I corrected myself. I set the gov up on an I3-53 Friday. I do know what I'm talking about I do understand how they work an I don't believe there's anything magical in there. I also have seen people get things set wrong and when it cut loose it sent the balancer through a 1" thick aluminum bulk head. It sucked down a six inch thick shop manual when we tried to cut the air off. No dam on blower. You are correct its not rocket science but you need to know what you are doing and be careful when working on this one.
 
(quoted from post at 00:08:31 01/08/18)
(quoted from post at 20:42:40 01/07/18)
(quoted from post at 16:47:06 01/07/18 detroits are notorious for injectors sticking. The only way to shut it down is to kill the air or take the fuel line off.
It's the rack that sticks wide open when that happens.

(quoted from post at 16:47:06 01/07/18
detroits 2 cycle valves do not require feeler gauges....
And the exhaust valves do need feeler gauges - it's the intakes that don't need much work.

https://brandon314.files.wordpress....njector-and-governor-adjustment-procedure.pdf



I have used everything from a 1/4 pin cut to the depth i wanted to set the injectors to, to using a bolt and nut, they arent that mystical magical device, the ones you buy just have a narrow dowel cut to fit in the hole and an upper T kinda deal, for some reason i am thinking anywhere from 1.2" to 1.7" depending on how much smoke you want,

and jr1983,

Setting the injector height is what "times" the engine to begin the injection event what ever degrees desired prior to TDC. Not so much to do with the actual amount of fuel injected.
 
5 years is a good while for a diesel to sit while parts are sticking and fuel is getting stale. Fresh fuel and a good cleaner is a must.

I would want to know if it ever ran correctly after the overhaul? How much was it ran after the overhaul? How hard was it worked? If these questions can't be answered satisfactorily I would pull the valve cover and do a complete check before I put her to work. All you're doing is making sure it is set up correctly.
 

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