1946 John deere A main bearings and shims

The mains have the 2 PC inserts bearings with shims my question is the shim pack has 2 thicker metal shims with thinner brass shims in between I am going to have to turn the crank down do the thicker metal shims have to be in there or can you just use the thin brass ones with maybe thick one depending how much the crank has to be turned. Any other source for the bearings other than deere. Thanks
 
If the crank get ground to .010 and the bearings are .010 you will need to use all the shims again & maybe more if some have been removed before.
 
The reason they are hard to locate is because they are not hot items. Any good machine shop might have three or more sources of all standard undersize insert bearings. Call one and ask if they can get them for you, and always how much for that.

Having trouble with shims and inserts though along with not knowing what was meant by PC in first post. Insert bearings rely on direct contact with the other bearing shell's edge to compress the shell into the cap and insure that the tangs prevent rotation of the shells. Shims are then only found on babbit type and they can't be both in my experience. But then I've never been into a JD with insert bearings. PC or otherwise.
 
My parts catalog shows a shimpack along with my service
Manual says to remove shims to get your clearance my question is do you have to use the thick metal shims that are included with the shim pack or can you just use the thin brass ones. Or are they just another thicker shim they are around 60 thousands and the brass ones are like 2 to 3 thousands
 
The way I read your post I think you are confusing the terms. Two piece bearings are poured Babbitt with the shim packs are so you can take out shims to compensate for crankshaft wear. Insert bearings are the conventional type like the picture and are not shimmed. They come in undersizes for when the crank is ground.
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My rods are the babit type and they have shims that is correct.

The mains on my tractor 1946 sn 567260 they are 2 piece insert style bearings like what u have in the picture but they have shims similar to the rods. My parts book show the Insert bearings AA4985R and AA4984R there is no listing for undersized. Also my service manual says to adjust the bearings take out shims and plastiguage until u get the right clearance. SO when they turn my crankshaft down I an going to have to take out shims. My shim pack consists of several thin brass shims and two metal thick shims with the brass in between Are the 2 metal thick shims just shims or they required to be against the caps with the brass in between.
 
Well that's a new one on me then.

The thick metal 'shims' are needed to rest against the insert shell edges so that the shells don't chew up the softer brass shims. Adjustment for clearance then would be done with the brass shims is my take on that situation. Yes, the thick ones need to be in there and against the insert shells, putting the brass shims in between the thick steel ones.
 
If you need to grind your crankshaft undersize, you will need undersize bearings. Contact Paul's Rod & Bearing. He can Babbitt your old bearing shells & machine them to your correct undersize. The way the inserts & Babbitt rods are designed you will still need to use the LAMINATED shim packs. Let Paul's walk you through this or you will have bigger problems. Those shim packs have to be the correct thickness when your go to fit your bearings. Pauls PH.816-587-4747.
 

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