How free-up axle clamp/hub on a 420?

All efforts to free up the axle clamps and hubs on my 420 have been unsuccessful. I have managed to loosen the nuts, but the bolts and clamps are still stuck in place.
Any tricks to get these things loose?

8569.jpg
 
Not sure this is applicable but dont see why it wouldnt.. I had this problem on my 3020 years ago. Guy at J.D. repair
told me to hit the end of axle with a sledge hammer.. TOld me needed to keep hitting it and it would brake them
loose..and it worked.. Hard to get a good hit with sledge but possible.
 
When I have that happen on any tractor I have worked on I loosened the bolt to just a tad less then finger tight and then carefully drove it around till you could see and or hear it pop loose
 
For me, putting the loosened clamp on the downhill side of a steep slope while driving around finally broke it loose on an MT - same clamp.
 
You may be drilling those bolts out if it's anything like my 40 was. Even after removing the clamp things didn't move easily. The rear flange has a bore in it that just fits the axle and it was as stuck as the bolts in the clamp.
 
Mr. Precision,Remove the wheel (not that bad), Remove the 4 bolts,( don't booger the threads). Using a
chisel and hammer, wedge the 2 parts apart driving the chisel inward from the outside between the 2 pieses.
Has worked for me app 30 times parting these tractors out.
 
(quoted from post at 15:09:27 01/03/18) Mr. Precision,Remove the wheel (not that bad), Remove the 4 bolts,( don't booger the threads). Using a
chisel and hammer, wedge the 2 parts apart driving the chisel inward from the outside between the 2 pieses.
Has worked for me app 30 times parting these tractors out.
Good idea if I can get the bolts out. Right now they are stuck too. I checked my parts book, and the bolt size isn't given. The washer size says 11/16" ID, which is 0.8675". Are the bolts 5/8" or a size specific to the hub & clamp?
 
best way i have found is to use a air punch hammer
turn the nut on till it is flush with the end of the bolt.
u will possibly have to air hammer both ends of the bolt in and out to shake it loose.
also a good air impact wrench to turn the bolt left and right will also shake out the rust.
once it turns take off the nut that was on there to prevent from mushrooming the threads.
again use the impact to turn the bolt left and right and also when doing this pull the impact wrench
in and out.
patience is your friend and use as much compressed air tools instead of muscle and sweat.
once the bolts are out like others have said use a good wide punch and seperate the two halves of the hub
they will be tight.
also if the bolts will not budge you may have to use a big sledge to get them moving first.
just dont damage the threads or you will be buying new bolts..... last resort drill them out.
good luck.
the second hub should be a little easier.
 
You have had good advice but you may need heat
to free the bolts. I would heat the bolt heads
and possibly the threaded ends red, allow them
to completely cool then try moving them. If they
move at all, work them back and forth to avoid
twisting them off.
 
Well I tried everything suggested, with the exception of heating with a torch. Nothing has moved. I don't see how I could drill out the bolts with the assembly still mounted on the axle. I have a spare assembly, so may just cut the stuck one in two and see if it will come off.
Don't know of any other options. I do have a propane torch, but that isn't going to generate the heat to free up the bolts.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
 

Could stuck on there with paint , some goober went and painted the axles when they are supposed to be left bare .
Take the four bolts right out and the block off completely.
Go wild with the oven cleaner , brake fluid or paint remover of your choice .
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Any other ideas?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

This is one method of removing the rear wheel hub cap.

[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#ff0000">Please be mindful of common safety steps; expressed or not.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>

Lift the rear tire and rotate until the rear wheel hub cap is horizontal.

Apply penetrate between rear wheel hub cap and rear wheel hub.
a253259.jpg" width="650"


Tap the rear wheel hub cap with a small sledge hammer.

Rotate the rear tire 180<sup>o</sup>.

Apply penetrate between rear wheel hub cap and rear wheel hub.
a253261.jpg" width="650"


Tap the rear wheel hub cap with a small sledge hammer.

Repeat previous three step process several times.

Rotate the rear tire 90<sup>o</sup> until the rear wheel hub cap is vertical.
a253262.jpg" width="650"


Loosen hex nuts until flush with top of cap screws.

Apply penetrate between rear wheel hub cap and cap screws.

Tap each cap screw with a small hammer until the hex nut is flush with the rear wheel hub cap.

Remove all hex nuts.

Apply penetrate between rear wheel hub cap and cap screws.

Apply penetrate to the key and axle key way.
a253263.jpg" width="650"


Tap the rear wheel hub cap with a small sledge hammer.

Put a punch on the end of the cap screw and tap with a small hammer.

Repeat previous three step process until each cap screw is removed.
a253264.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 
Thank you for the detailed explanation, James. I've had three 420-430 tractors in the past 25 years.... never had one this stubborn. Will try as described and report back in a week or so.
 
Success..... finally.
I removed the wheel. Built a support bench for the axle. Rotated the clamps so that the "nut" side was facing up and the bolt head was facing down vertically.
After soaking with penetrating oil for several weeks, put my impact wrench on the bolt heads and hit the nut ends with a sledgehammer. Eventually got all four bolts out, although they were obviously ruined.
I believe part of the problem is due to rust on the thread area inside the hub, and part is due to the hubs just being stuck on the axles. Each bolt body was covered in flaky rust.
Cleaned up the hubs, cleaned the axle, applied never-seize to all parts, bought new bolts and put the whole thing back together. At least I managed to save the hub and hub cap.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Sounds like you got it done right.

Sure will make it easier for both you and the next owner in the future.

Thanks for the update.
 
I definitely wouldn't hit it with a sledge hammer....i'd leave it loose...clean off all the paint...use some good penetrant and operate it with a load/hillside/etc...
 

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