Did I just blow a gasket?

It's 10 degrees here, which is about as cold as it ever gets, and I wanted to see if my 1010 would start this cold. It did, pretty well actually, but when I went to check my oil pressure it was well over 120PSI. Normally when I start it up it's running at 60. 10 seconds later I see oil on the ground and now theres oil running out of the filter base between where the metal shield goes over the filter and the base. I know there is a gasket there but I replaced it not more than a year ago. Did I just blow that gasket? Should I have tightened the shield down more?


See attached picture. This is not my filter, just a picture of one from eBay.
8534.jpg
 
At 120psi there's a very good chance it blew. Frozen moisture inside somewhere was blocking your oil flow. Sure hope you shut it down fast before anything else was
damaged.
 

After I saw oil on the ground and saw where it was coming from, it was off as fast as I could run to the switch and turn it off.
 
Those gaskets/O-rings are a pain to get to sit just right regardless of if the moon and stars are aligned correctly in my opinion. Seems even after years of changing out filters on M's, MT's and now the 1010 there is a good chance mine will leak on start up or blow out. Hopefully no other damage was done on yours.

We have had negative teens here all week and I haven't started my 1010 since Christmas yet but looks like we might be getting some snow the end of this week. Now you got me worried!
 
Without getting into the WHY's of starting it in the cold just because you could, or why the oil pressure went so high, are you SURE there's not an extra, HARD, old seal ring packed down in the bottom of the groove, under the seal that "blew"?
 

I'm going to get replacements now and i'll double check. Anybody know if there's a torque spec I'm supposed to tighten the shield to?
 
What weight oil are you running in the engine? I started my 520 yesterday to move some snow it was -22. I sat with it running just above an idle waiting for pressure to show on the gauge. The pressure didn't come up like it normally does and I shut it off. While I sat there thinking about a sheared oil pump drive coupler and how ugly changing it would be in this temperature I happened to look back down at the gauge and it had moved off 0 as I looked at it it moved up a little more and this is not running and not cranking. There was enough residual pressure from cranking that thick oil to move the gauge. I fired it back up and the pressure came up to normal in a minute and I moved snow. I'm running 10w30 oil, the 15w40 a lot of people run in these old tractors isn't good at low temperatures.
 

Just replaced the O ring and restarted. Oil level was fine. Temp here is now 21 and the pressure at start up was 100 then dropped down to 80 after 10 seconds or so. Seemed fine. I did notice when I checked the oil level some frost at the top of the dip stick (the part right beneath the handle). I have no water in my oil so is this just water that's seeped in?

I am running straight SAE 40 oil. I know that's thick but I have a problem where it'll start with great pressure but after 30 minutes of use I'm struggling to keep 15 PSI at 1500RPM. This is more of a show tractor that doesn't see much practical use and I probably haven't put more than 5-10 hours on it in the past year.
 
Try running 10w40 in that, straight 40 at those temperatures is really starving the bearings on start up.
 
Let me see if I got this right. You tried to start your tractor when it was as cold as it gets just to see if you could. You run 40wt oil. You then got an oil leak. Is this a made up thread?
 

Well when you put it like that...

It was more of a test to see if it WOULD start in the cold. I got the carb fixed around November and last year it would rarely start below freezing. We only have 1 other tractor, a diesel, that has a really hard time starting in the cold. Needed to know if we could count on this one to start.

I'm concerned that switching to the 10W40 will result in low oil pressure when the motor warms up. Will this not be an issue?
 
I had something like that happen to me on a Chevy Vega I had. The oil pressure relief valve had stuck closed to oil pressure went sky high and blew the oil filter gasket. So you could have a stuck relief valve or a bit of water in the oil and it has frozen up in the relief valve. As for running 10W-40 it will work just fine and your oil pressure will be just fine also. I run 20W-50 in my stuff and I have found over a straight weight oil my oil pressure is better
 
40W oil in the winter is asking for trouble. You can easily break the oil pump drive gear doing that. Your cold start creates more wear than ten warm weather starts on the engine. I never start stuff in extreme cold unless I ness it to work. Even then I will combine jobs on one tractor to keep from starting others.

If your having the oil pressure drop in the summer then you have an internal problem in the motor. It could be several things. The most likely is worn cam bearings. The simplest to check is the oil pump itself. Just drop the pan and inspect the oil pump. IRC you can even just take the bottom off the pump while it is in the motor. If that looks good then plasti-gauge the main and rod bearings. If the clearance is good there than it more than likely is the cam bearings.
 
(quoted from post at 14:17:22 01/02/18) 40W oil in the winter is asking for trouble. You can easily break the oil pump drive gear doing that. Your cold start creates more wear than ten warm weather starts on the engine. I never start stuff in extreme cold unless I ness it to work. Even then I will combine jobs on one tractor to keep from starting others.

If your having the oil pressure drop in the summer then you have an internal problem in the motor. It could be several things. The most likely is worn cam bearings. The simplest to check is the oil pump itself. Just drop the pan and inspect the oil pump. IRC you can even just take the bottom off the pump while it is in the motor. If that looks good then plasti-gauge the main and rod bearings. If the clearance is good there than it more than likely is the cam bearings.

I'll make a note of that. We really don't ever use this one, and normally temperatures around here when we do work are in the 40's. I got plastigage earlier with the intent of checking the bearings but never got around to it. I'll probably keep the 40W in it for now and just avoid starting when it's below 40.
 

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