Starting L John Deere after long sleep.

Tried and tried to start it with the home made electric starter in the crank hole. Smoke out the carburetor intake. Finally decided that the intake valve must be stuck. Not stuck, Removed the head and the leaky valve. Pretty buggered up looking. Got out the grinding compound. ( have grinding tools but the valve is already too thing at the edge ) Got out the electric drill and put flat screwdriver bit in the chuck. (Old timers knew I'd have to do this some day) Put the grinding compound on the valve contact point and on the valve seat in the block and ground away and away and away. Finally got the valve and seat to shine on both sides. Did all the other valves too. They were easier. Only one away! Put it all back together being sure to add about a table spoon of oil on top of the pistons. ( learned this trick many years ago when I was just a kid after about wearing out a starter on an 8N Ford because of minute grit on valves etc.) Put my electric starter back on and engaged it while hanging on and it sputtered a few times and started up. (rejoicing!) Poured by shelled corn into the hopper of the grist mill and finally got what I started out to do a couple of days before. (Grind my corn for the chickens) Boy am I tired!

Zane

Your Valve clearances will now be smaller...if you did not take some off the end..

Those have adjustable tappets so hopefully he adjusted them ?

I'm betting your thinking of the air cooled engines that you adjust by grinding the end of the valve.

I have an old 2-cylinder Wisconsin that wouldn't start, I put a little oil in the spark plug holes and it took right off! Every year when I use it the last time I squirt oil in the primer until it smokes real bad and shut it off, the next season it starts right up.

I rebuilt a LUC & the valves were bad. I had my son tig weld a bead on the intakes & I used valves from a V4 Wis for the ex. as I had to put in seats too. Runs fine.

The 9N fords came with a muchroom shaped valve that rode on the tappett and had to be ground to adjust after a valve job. A pain!

Learned to cool the valve before measuring it or all of them would have too much clearance when you started them up and clacked like crazy because the valve stem got shorter when it cooled down.

Yes I did adjust the valves after lapping the valves.

Needed a course grit though. I about wore out my patience with the fine grit but did finally get them seating good.

Zane

That's cool you got it up & running!

There's no substitute for a job done properly but when you're in a bind, the machine is not your daily driver, or you simply don't have the money, it's handy to be able to improvise when needed.

(quoted from post at 13:50:45 12/31/17) The 9N fords came with a muchroom shaped valve that rode on the tappett and had to be ground to adjust after a valve job. A pain!

Learned to cool the valve before measuring it or all of them would have too much clearance when you started them up and clacked like crazy because the valve stem got shorter when it cooled down.

Yes I did adjust the valves after lapping the valves.

Needed a course grit though. I about wore out my patience with the fine grit but did finally get them seating good.

Zane

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