3010 charge light on

Olliejunkie

Well-known Member
Here we go again. Started my 3010 today and charge light stayed on. It's still a 24 volt system. All original accept I disconnected the battery cables that go to the chassis and went straight from battery to battery then put a fusible link to ground. Can someone tell me how to check the generator and regulator,?
 
If I remember correctly, when connecting voltmeter to
the generator the positive lead connects to the terminal
under the gen and the negative lead connects to the
arm. terminal. Jumper from field terminal to terminal
under gen. If no charge the gen is bad.
I'm not looking at a gen so don't really remember how
terminals are marked.
 
I think I will pull the generator and I have it checked where I bought it. . It's only a few years old I tried tapping on the generator and regulator.
 
You did the right thing with the jumper cable and fuse link. How cold is it where you are running the tractor and how much blowing snow is there? I have seen snow melt in the generator when the tractor is running and then it can freeze the brushes to the holders so they don't move and contact the commutator. -26 this morning and 5ft of snow so far this week, guess why I suggested this.
 
(quoted from post at 05:40:28 12/28/17) You did the right thing with the jumper cable and fuse link. How cold is it where you are running the tractor and how much blowing snow is there? I have seen snow melt in the generator when the tractor is running and then it can freeze the brushes to the holders so they don't move and contact the commutator. -26 this morning and 5ft of snow so far this week, guess why I suggested this.
No snow and above freezing during the day. I couldn't see any arcing on the brush. I measured from a couple poles. Seems like I got 12 on one and 7 on the other. I never have been able to remember how to test them.
 
Good afternoon Ollie, To add just a bit to D's post below, on the JD 24 volt system the gennys output is across the Armature WELL DUH which has the external A1 and A2 labels if those are visible on your unit. If you full field the genny as he described when she's running and theres still no output if all else is working and wired correctly I suspect a genny problem versus the voltage regulator. Tx Jim and the good Buick man (gave a 24 volt seminar at a Two Cylinder Expo) are go to guys who may provide more assistance.

Indeed where the battery banks tie in the series middle (12 + 12 = 24) a jumper wire to frame/ground is used as one battery then becomes so called "NEGATIVE GROUNDED" (with respect to that frame/ground) while the other battery becomes so called "POSITIVE GROUNDED" and to balance loads and charging per official JD literature some lights are fed from the Neg grounded battery while others are fed from the Pos grounded battery via the A and B feeds up to the light switch... THATS AT LEAST HOW THE JD LITERATURE AND WIRING DIAGRAMS INDICATE... HOWEVER the two wire 24 volt Starter and Generator are frame/ground isolated (IE NOT Pos grounded but floating off frame/ground) and don't use or rely on the center tie point to frame/ground. NOTE the terminology frame and ground merely indicates the big hunk of metallic conductive iron tractor frame which serves as and is often called "Ground" by many.

Happy and Blessed New Year to all here

John T
 
To measure the gennys output across its A1 & A2 terminals its running with wires connected.

John T
 
When running the JD 24 volt gennys output is across its Armature which has A1 & A2 labels if such are visible. Ive (a past used tractor dealer, Electrical Engineer and one who farmed with two cylinder Deeres) seen many gennys fail simply because the brush hold down springys are stuck or corroded or froze or gunked up and didnt hold tension on the brushes down against the commutator. Of course brushes can be worn down too low and I've also seen a commutator so dirty and greasy the genny didn't charge properly.

John T
 
(quoted from post at 15:26:32 12/27/17) If I remember correctly, when connecting voltmeter to
the generator the positive lead connects to the terminal
under the gen and the negative lead connects to the
arm. terminal. Jumper from field terminal to terminal
under gen. If no charge the gen is bad.
I'm not looking at a gen so don't really remember how
terminals are marked.
I only got 3 volts. Looks like it's off to the gen shop.
Thank you for the help.
 
(quoted from post at 12:14:40 12/28/17) Good afternoon Ollie, To add just a bit to D's post below, on the JD 24 volt system the gennys output is across the Armature WELL DUH which has the external A1 and A2 labels if those are visible on your unit. If you full field the genny as he described when she's running and theres still no output if all else is working and wired correctly I suspect a genny problem versus the voltage regulator. Tx Jim and the good Buick man (gave a 24 volt seminar at a Two Cylinder Expo) are go to guys who may provide more assistance.

Indeed where the battery banks tie in the series middle (12 + 12 = 24) a jumper wire to frame/ground is used as one battery then becomes so called "NEGATIVE GROUNDED" (with respect to that frame/ground) while the other battery becomes so called "POSITIVE GROUNDED" and to balance loads and charging per official JD literature some lights are fed from the Neg grounded battery while others are fed from the Pos grounded battery via the A and B feeds up to the light switch... THATS AT LEAST HOW THE JD LITERATURE AND WIRING DIAGRAMS INDICATE... HOWEVER the two wire 24 volt Starter and Generator are frame/ground isolated (IE NOT Pos grounded but floating off frame/ground) and don't use or rely on the center tie point to frame/ground. NOTE the terminology frame and ground merely indicates the big hunk of metallic conductive iron tractor frame which serves as and is often called "Ground" by many.

Happy and Blessed New Year to all here

John T

Sounds as if you have everything under control.
 
(quoted from post at 12:27:47 12/28/17)
(quoted from post at 12:14:40 12/28/17) Good afternoon Ollie, To add just a bit to D's post below, on the JD 24 volt system the gennys output is across the Armature WELL DUH which has the external A1 and A2 labels if those are visible on your unit. If you full field the genny as he described when she's running and theres still no output if all else is working and wired correctly I suspect a genny problem versus the voltage regulator. Tx Jim and the good Buick man (gave a 24 volt seminar at a Two Cylinder Expo) are go to guys who may provide more assistance.

Indeed where the battery banks tie in the series middle (12 + 12 = 24) a jumper wire to frame/ground is used as one battery then becomes so called "NEGATIVE GROUNDED" (with respect to that frame/ground) while the other battery becomes so called "POSITIVE GROUNDED" and to balance loads and charging per official JD literature some lights are fed from the Neg grounded battery while others are fed from the Pos grounded battery via the A and B feeds up to the light switch... THATS AT LEAST HOW THE JD LITERATURE AND WIRING DIAGRAMS INDICATE... HOWEVER the two wire 24 volt Starter and Generator are frame/ground isolated (IE NOT Pos grounded but floating off frame/ground) and don't use or rely on the center tie point to frame/ground. NOTE the terminology frame and ground merely indicates the big hunk of metallic conductive iron tractor frame which serves as and is often called "Ground" by many.

Happy and Blessed New Year to all here

John T

Sounds as if you have everything under control.
 
(quoted from post at 12:27:47 12/28/17)
(quoted from post at 12:14:40 12/28/17) Good afternoon Ollie, To add just a bit to D's post below, on the JD 24 volt system the gennys output is across the Armature WELL DUH which has the external A1 and A2 labels if those are visible on your unit. If you full field the genny as he described when she's running and theres still no output if all else is working and wired correctly I suspect a genny problem versus the voltage regulator. Tx Jim and the good Buick man (gave a 24 volt seminar at a Two Cylinder Expo) are go to guys who may provide more assistance.

Indeed where the battery banks tie in the series middle (12 + 12 = 24) a jumper wire to frame/ground is used as one battery then becomes so called "NEGATIVE GROUNDED" (with respect to that frame/ground) while the other battery becomes so called "POSITIVE GROUNDED" and to balance loads and charging per official JD literature some lights are fed from the Neg grounded battery while others are fed from the Pos grounded battery via the A and B feeds up to the light switch... THATS AT LEAST HOW THE JD LITERATURE AND WIRING DIAGRAMS INDICATE... HOWEVER the two wire 24 volt Starter and Generator are frame/ground isolated (IE NOT Pos grounded but floating off frame/ground) and don't use or rely on the center tie point to frame/ground. NOTE the terminology frame and ground merely indicates the big hunk of metallic conductive iron tractor frame which serves as and is often called "Ground" by many.

Happy and Blessed New Year to all here

John T

Sounds as if you have everything under control.

Not really..I pulled it and I'm headed to town. I think I should've tried polarizing it first. Problem is I will probably forget how I fixed it by the next time it's broke.
 
Wow only 3 volts, time to get it repaired, maybe its simple and cheap like a brush hold down or brush problem and NOT a bad armature or fields grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


John T
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:28 12/28/17) Wow only 3 volts, time to get it repaired, maybe its simple and cheap like a brush hold down or brush problem and NOT a bad armature or fields grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr


John T
It's only a few years old. Maybe 50 hours on it. I'm guessing something stuck from sitting. Dropped it at the shop but he was to busy to look at it today.
 
A bad field winding is the most common problem I have found on those generators.
 
A bunch of nonsense as usual! The lights are not fed from either battery when the tractor is running, but by the GENERATOR! This applies to 6 and 12 volt systems as well as 24. Time to review series-parallel circuits.
 
It is unusual for a generator to go bad so soon but things can indeed become "stuck" from sitting. Hopefully its a minor brush or commutator or brush hold down problem (0r maybe even a wiring issue) versus an expensive Armature or Field windings.

Glad you're getting it professionally repaired

Let me know what the problem was

John T Retired Electrical Engineer
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:27 12/28/17) It is unusual for a generator to go bad so soon but things can indeed become "stuck" from sitting. Hopefully its a minor brush or commutator or brush hold down problem (0r maybe even a wiring issue) versus an expensive Armature or Field windings.

Glad you're getting it professionally repaired

Let me know what the problem was

John T Retired Electrical Engineer
I took it to the guy I got it from. Hopefully he will treat me right. He usually does. Try to give all my electric business to him as he is usually cheaper and better than parts stores. If I didn't have him around probably wouldve tore into it myself. Probably know more tomorrow.
 
Gen guy thinks the fields are burnt and ordered new ones. I don't know why they would burn up. Last time I use it there was no problem. Sits a few weeks and no charge. It is only 2 years old with less than 50 hours on it. Maybe they didn't replace fields when it was rebuilt. To be continued.
 

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