Light switch ground

When people are referring to the light switch having a good ground , are they referring to the ground wire that connects to positive side of the battery and to the frame of the dash ? If so, that?s new. If there referring to something else can someone please explain to me how this will be done.

You might tell what you are working on.

John Deere mt. Light switch being ground. Just trying to get a clear understanding if the switch it?s self needs to be grounded. And if so are they referring to the ground strap that connects to battery.

I would take it to mean the lights are not getting a good ground connection through the fender, or frame. It is a common issue.

"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">are they referring to the ground strap that connects to battery.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"



The braided ground strap connected to the POSITIVE post on the battery needs to be secured to the instrument panel.


"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]<font color="#6699ff">Just trying to get a clear understanding if the switch it?s self needs to be grounded.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Since the ignition switch is also secured to the instrument panel, then the ignition switch is ground.

Hope this helps.

Agree with [b:654c4848f0]Ray Tractor[/b:654c4848f0]'s statement "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the lights are not getting a good ground connection[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]".

There is a [b:654c4848f0]LIGHTS[/b:654c4848f0] position on the ignition switch.



Turn the ignition switch to the [b:654c4848f0]LIGHTS[/b:654c4848f0] position.

Using a test light, check for current/power at the machine screw terminal on the back of the light body assembly.


If there is current/power to the light, then the light will shine.

If there is current/power to the light and the light does not shine, then:

Check the clamp and front light adjusting arm for a good ground connection.

Check the machine screw and green lead wire for a good ground connection.

Check the light bulb for a good ground connection.

Hope this helps.

Another good thing to do is scrap that strap all together. Run a 0 gauge ground wire to that point or better yet to the battery box mounting bolt right on the frame. I noticed better starter performance by just putting in a cable over the strap.

If your headlights are dim or do not work take a wire brush and brush off the paint. There is no ground wire from the light bulbs themselves so they ground through the light mount, through the sheet metal to the frame.

The light switch needs to have a good ground because it controls the charging rate. It does this by grounding the generator field. The two charge rates are controlled by having a direct ground to the frame or grounding through a resistor for the low charge rate. If the switch ground is poor the system can never put out it's full capacity.

Like I already explained to you, If it charges if you jumper wire dead ground the gennys FLD but NOT otherwise, THE LIGHT SWITCH ISNT WELL GROUNDED OR THE WIRES BAD FROM FLD ON GENNY TO SWITCH.........

The light switch gets its ground via the metal to metal frame ground bond from switch to dash sheet metal BUT ITS OFTEN LOOSE OR RUSTY so not a good ground !!!!!!!!!! You can clean up the connections bright n shiny rust and paint free or run a ground wire to the grounded battery terminal and try it.........

YOU HAVE TO HAVE A GOOD LIGHT SWITCH GROUND and that's metal to metal rust and paint free or just run a jumper wire from switch to battery ground

John T
Click here to troubleshoot non charging

You ask "if the switch it?s self needs to be grounded"

ANSWER YES you need a good clean rust and paint free frame ground bond from switch "electrically" to the batterys
grounded post which is usually via the iron and sheet metal but if its bad run a wire !!!!!!!!!!!!

"And if so are they referring to the ground strap that connects to battery"

ANSWER NO Butttttttttt that also needs to be good

Post back any questions

John T

John T- when you say run a jumper wire to dead ground. Does that mean I would put a wire on ?F? post of Genny and other end of wire against the frame of tractor ? Or take that wire to the battery on positive post ?

I added a couple pics. Where would I connect the wire on switch to run my ground ? Also on my ammeter it shows ?B? on one side and ?L? on the other. Which one would be negative on ammeter ? That?s the only place in the wiring that doesn?t specify. I just looked at manual to determine where the wires went. Bc the sheet I got with my new harness says? ammeter (-) to cut out relay (bat).

Either should work but to be sure if you run a temporary wire from FLD on Genny to the Grounded battery post (would be + for a POS grounded tractor as yours was originally at least) and it charges then but NOT otherwise the light switch isn't well grounded or wires missing from FLD on genny up to light switch. Its typical for rust or paint to prevent the light switch from getting a good ground. Try a jump wire from good clean bright metal on switch to battery ground n see if she charges

John T

"Where would I connect the wire on switch to run my ground"

A good clean shiny metal part like where it bolts into the dash etc to the grounded battery post



" Also on my ammeter it shows ?B? on one side and ?L? on the other.

B wires to the UNgrounded battery post, that would be its NEG on a pos grounded tractor

L wires to (or serves) LOADS (lights etc) and also the output of the genny via the cutout relay which is its BAT terminal. The cutout relays other terminal is GEN or ARM and it wires to the gennys ARM post.


" Which one would be negative on ammeter ? That?s the only place in the wiring that doesn?t specify. I just looked at manual to determine where the wires went. Bc the sheet I got with my new harness says? ammeter (-) to cut out relay (bat)"

The instructions you have may well be for a standard NEG ground tractor but yours was original POS ground THEREFORE
If you turn lights and/or ignition on tractor not running the ammeter should swing over to - discharge, if it swings to + charge reverse ammeter leads.

Again the BAT side of an ammeter wires to the ungrounded battery post and the L side wires to lights and ignition PLUS to the cutout relays BAT terminal.

John T

The term “ground” should never have ever been used on mobile DC equipment . There is no connection to a buried ground rod or ground plate connected to earth. The term “chassis return” should have been used .
This causes all manner of grief when Bubba now tinkeres on a AC power system in a building. Try as you may, there is no convincing Bubba that neutral current is not supposed to flow through the ground system.

" Another good thing to do is scrap that strap all together. Run a 0 gauge ground wire to that point or better yet to the battery box mounting bolt right on the frame. I noticed better starter performance by just putting in a cable over the strap. "

Flash,
What is your conclusion of Wire vs Braid? No argument here, I'm electrically clueless, but wanting to learn. shielded cable is gooder because ???
less corrosion? Resistance? more efficient transfer?

Thanks for some more insight... and Merry Christmas!

Bob

Less Corrosion and a stronger ground. All of the 40, 50 and 55 series we had/have on the farm got the ground straps replace to 0 gauge cables that went to the starter bolt. What a difference. On the MT you can't go to the starter bolt but I went to the battery tray mounting molt which is direct "frame" with a cable and the starter had better response. On the 50 and 55 series Deere's we had in the cold everything started sooner and a lot less corrosion.

I overheard a few guys talking at our farm-n-home, in the next aisle over at check-out a few days ago. About too much load on a circuit, how to solve it.... How to run a new circuit, etc. I overheard local Bubba said he could send over a couple guys to fix that real easy, they just had to put in a bigger circuit breaker. What's it got now? 30 amp? Shoot, Bubba said we'll just stick in a 50 amp and that'll solve it. Sad to say.