Early JD3020 Powershift Diesel

Just installed the 12 volt conversion kit. I connected all the wires as
depicted in the the diagram that came with the kit. The problem that I
am havimg is that their is no power going from the switch to the
starter solenoid. When I press the start button power is present at
the neutral safety switch and the wire connecting the safety switch to
the "S" terminal on the start switch. For whatever reason I do not
have power present at anytime on the start switch terminal connected
to the starter solenoid.

Kind of hard to follow what you are saying. Are you sure power is getting to/through both the key switch and the push button? I highly recommend putting a relay in the starting circuit ahead of the starter solenoid, if it is not already so equipped. That way, you do not have to rely on getting enough current to engage the solenoid through all the safety switch, ignition switch, old wires, old connections, etc. It is described in detail in several archived posts on this site. I put one on both my 3020 and 2510 and they both start good.

Did you install a new wiring harness or you utilizing original 24 volt wiring harness? If you're utilizing original 24 volt wiring harness do you have both blue & brown wires at starter attached to top post on 12 volt starter solenoid? Did you install an extra relay on yellow starter solenoid exciter wire? If so is relay getting a good ground?

I agree with TX Jim, pretty hard to mess it up.

I did use the original 24 volt harness. Also I did install the the
solenoid that came seperate from the starter. I mounted the solenoid
on the center panel below the start button. The solenoid came with
two red wires: 1 goes from the solenoid to the top lug on the starter
where both battery pos cables attach to. The other red wire goes
from the solenoid to the ignition terminal on the starter. The "S"
terminal on the solenoid is connected to the original yellow wire that
ran from the safety switch to the 24 volt starter. The blue and brown
wires off the old regulator are connected to the new alternator. I did
find a break in the original yellow wire in the main harness to the
safety switch. I ran a new wire off the start button to the safety switch
opposite of the one that runs from the safety switch to th S terminal
on the solenoid. Good power to the key switch and start button.
When I press the start button I have good power to both sides of the
neutral safety switch and from ther have power to the S terminal on
the new solenoid. I just dont have any power going from the 2nd red
wire off yhe new solenoid to the ignition terminal on the starter.

I had trouble like this before on a 3020 and found that there is a main connector bulk head under the dash that had the hot wire burnt out and not getting a proper connection to the starter.
just something to try but if you got power going to the key swith but not to the starter, I bypassed the big square plug in with a live wire from the key switch and went directly to the selenoid.
this will give you an idea if there is a bad connection and if the key switch works.
always make sure your nuetral start is working. safety first.

It seems to me that the yellow safety switch wire should return to the new solenoid instead of the starter solenoid. Then the red wire from the new solenoid would go to the starter solenoid. Are you sure there are no other terminals on the new solenoid except the two that have red wires? The purpose of the new solenoid is just to be a good switch in a shorter, heaver wire circuit from the battery connection at the starter to the terminal on the starter solenoid which activates the starter. I would think this is the S terminal. The I terminal is usually for gas engines, I thought.

That is correct. The safety switch wire is connected to the S terminal on the new solenoid. For some reason, the diagram calls the new solenoid a starter solenoid.

I installed the new relay that came with the kit. I do not see where it
would be grounded.

If there is no ground terminal or ground wire for the new solenoid, it means it grounds through the mounting bracket. If that is the case, then I bet it is not grounding good where you have it mounted. I would run a separate ground wire from mounting bracket to tractor frame if it is that type of solenoid. The ones I used have a ground terminal. Power from the yellow safety switch must flow through the solenoid to ground to activate the solenoid.

I still think added(extra) relay isn't making good ground connection. Does relay click when ignition switch is turned to start position??/

Thanks for the info. Nothing on the diagram spoke about potential grounding issues involved with mounting location of the solenoid. I ran a ground wire off one of the solenoid mounting bolts to the frame and the tractor started.

Thanks for update & glad you got starter operating correctly.

Thanks for the info. Nothing on the diagram spoke about potential grounding issues involved with mounting location of the solenoid. I ran a ground wire off one of the solenoid mounting bolts to the frame and the tractor started.