Question 3020 vs 3010

chas036

Member
Did all the 3020's come with a forward facing pto under the tractor, or was this just an option?

Did the 3010 come with this also?

Was there a big difference in reliability and power between the 3010 and 3020?

I found a decent 3010 wide front gas for $3900 and I was wondering if it is better to just spend the extra $2000 or $2500 to get a 3020?

I have 6 two cylinder tractors ( A,B, 60, 620, 720D, 730 Gas) and now an looking for something in the new generation.
 
Early 3020 or side console 3020 ?
The four cylinder waterloo engines are somewhat of an orphan.
Perhaps a 2520 or such ?
 
Keep looking at 3010 gas has a lot of points against it,, a 3020 diesel would be much better..
 
3020 better option.I don't care for gas motors but they have their place.$3900 would be top money for 3010.Good tractors are a much better buy than average ones.Very handy tractors.I prefer the 6 cyl motors and 4020 gases don't sell very well about same as 3020s or less.Front PTO was an option and mostly used for mid mounted mowers which are obsolete except to collectors who pay good money for them.The pto is much better design on 20 series.Side counsel 2520/3020/4000/4020/4320 all bring about the same depending on condition,options,and tires.
 
Agree with below... if you are going to use it a lot (especially the PTO) get the 3020. And yes, I think the front PTO was standard on the 3020.
 
(quoted from post at 06:43:15 11/16/17) .Front PTO was an option and mostly used for mid mounted mowers which are obsolete except to collectors who pay good money for them.

Larry
I know you're very knowledgeable on 3020/4020's & their options but are you positive mid-pto was an option? I could not locate a pto shaft without mid pto in 3020 parts catalog but I might be overlooking it.
Thanks,Jim

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I've never seen a 4020 or 3020 without one... but I have a 4320 without one. It has just a flat plate over the front PTO bearing. Have not looked at the parts catalog.
 
Hi Chas, I'm going to guess you are some sort of collector to whatever degree if you have six other older JD's. If you like the 3010 gasser and your budget is limited to the $4K you reference, get it. If it truly is 'decent' you will probably not lose much or any money on it, and now you will have a New Gen unit in your shed. Your better bet, if you are in the market for either a 3010 or a 3020, would be a 3020 diesel with S/N over 123,000 (basically 1969-72). If that appeals to you, you may want to save some additional beer money as it will be tough to find a decent one for the $6400 you are ballparking above. Also, I would never care to debate Larryanderson on these things, but if indeed the front PTO was an option, it must have cost about $10 and everyone opted for it because I don't think I have seen a 3010 or 20 without it. Your question about reliability and power- I think the Nebraska tests show the 3010 at 55 hp and the 3020 at close to 70 hp. Others can speak to reliability better than I. Testimony from the corner coffee shop seems to indicate a preference for the 3020 engine. The PTO issue has already been brought up, but it you have no use for 1000rpm work, it is easily remedied on a 3010.
 
Doesn't sound like a bad price to me ?
I remember when people were asking that for 8N Ford's and some may of even gotten it !
I am not a fan of the 3010,3020 4 cyl. engines. They don't sound right to me ?
 
(quoted from post at 07:53:17 11/16/17) I've never seen a 4020 or 3020 without one... but I have a 4320 without one. It has just a flat plate over the front PTO bearing. Have not looked at the parts catalog.
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I actually have never seen a pre 69/72 with out one So they must have been standard equiptment.As I have stated my advice is worth what it costs.
 
Chas, when I was a used tractor dealer the 20 series (in general) might bring at least 10% to 30% MORE the then 10. HOWEVER of course, it all depends on the condition and hours and care and tires etc etc. As far as which to buy THATS STRICTLY YOUR CHOICE NOT OURS, we can't know your typical needs, use and requirements. That being said, for general farm use if a 10 series was in good shape and could do all you need it to do, I wouldn't hesitate to take the plunge versus waiting and hoping for a good 20 series. I'm NOT saying which is best, ONLY the 10 may work for you??

Best wishes and God Bless all here

John T, BSEE, JD Retired farmer, attorney and electrical engineer.......
 
I have put lots of hours on both 3010's and 3020's and have owned dozens of both. There were a good many improvements on the 3020. The best was the improvements to the pto. All the oil lines on a 20 are a size bigger than a 10 and the rear hyd outlets were nicer on a 20 series. If the 3010 is in very good condition I would not be afraid of it as I would rather have a nice 3010 than a rough 3020. If possible get one with a zenith carb if you are going to stick with gas. In a diesel I prefer the 3020 engine over the 10 because it has an engine oil cooler that a 10 does not and it has larger valves and unless you buy a very early 3020 diesel you will get pencil fuel injecters. Unless the injection pump was updated (many 3010's have been) you will have the older pump without the timing advance which many people say starts harder.If I am going to use it I would rather have an early diesel than a side console gas tractor. The side console diesels are great but are rather expensive. Right now I have five 3020's here on the farm. Tom
 
I plan on using it for field work like disking or with a bush hog, and a snow blower.

I saw a 3020 with 34 inch rims and 18.4 tires. Was 34 inch rims a option? I thought all 3020 and 3020 cam with 38 inch rims
 
(quoted from post at 23:42:36 11/16/17) I plan on using it for field work like disking or with a bush hog, and a snow blower.

I saw a 3020 with 34 inch rims and 18.4 tires. Was 34 inch rims a option? I thought all 3020 and 3020 cam with 38 inch rims

According to 3020 parts catalogs no 18.4x34 tires were offered on rowcrop 3020 tractors. 16.9x34 rear tires were offered on 3020 RC tractors
 
34" centers are common on 3020s, but perhaps not quite as common as 38s. We have a 68 3020, that my dad and uncle bought used in '70. It came with 34 inch centers, but they had them replaced with 38s, as the 15.5 38 tire was more compatible with the New Idea mounted picker they put on it.

We still have that 3020. A little about it... the original owner traded an R for it. After a year, the dealer still had his R on the lot, and the 3020 purchaser decided the R better fit his needs! So he took the 3020 back and retrieved his R!
 
My uncle bought a 3010-D when they first came out to replace his Farmall 400. He sent it back to the dealer THREE times because of low HP, couldn't do the same work the 400 did. Dealer had it running 70 hp before my Uncle was satisfied.

Dad bought a slightly used '63 4010-D in December '68, had already been majored with the 4020 kit, and still burned LOTS and LOTS of oil. It had every one of the typical problems except the front hyd pump coupler problem. As it's last act of defiance, it shifted from 540 to 1000 rpm pto while Dad was bush hogging some weeds a week before the owners of the farm auctioned the farm off. So the pto and clutch repaired/replaced, engine majored with M&W sleeves/pistons, new draft bar seals, wfe, new paint, tires, looked like new.

I'd bypass the 10-series, 3020 or 4020 only. Every 20-series I've seen had diff lock, no 10-series had it. The 3rd reverse of the -10's was nice but a few minutes with a die grinder you can have 3rd Reverse on 3020/4020 too.
 
The dealer should have known better than selling a 3020 when he had an R. That is like comparing a pony to a horse(at least on tillage work).LOL Tom
 
Not to be smart but you have not seen very many 20 series tractors if you never seen one without diff. lock. It was not available untill 1965 and was an option then untill the end of production. Even in 1972 it was in the base price but you could deduct $122 if you ordered without. I have a 1968 3020 here without it and have owned several more without it. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 14:43:21 11/17/17) I have an early 4020 and it does not have a diff. lock. I think that was an option.


The diff. lock was new for the 1965 model years. I think it was an option, but I have never seen a post 65 model not have the diff. lock.

I have the original sales brochure for the 1965 model year, I should find it and see if it was an option or standard equipment.
 
Well, the 3020 would have had better row crop abilities, power steering, and the list goes on. But he claimed the R handled plowing etc better, and used a lot less fuel.

But let's face it. Once you are used to using a 2 cylinder, it is hard to give up. Moving grain wagons around the yard here, there is an 8235R, a 4450, a 4020.... and I've been using the 70. Easy on, easy off. Nobody fighting me for it. Good cold weather starting late at night or early in the morning.
 

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