Can I split a 4020 to get to the clutch without a stand? I would wedge the axle and block the engine, then use floor jack under trans and roll the rear end away. It needs new pto clutch and there is a broken pto gear or something because it was clanking and then it locked up the pto and killed the engine. Transmission is fine but still probably have to do a double split to find the problem.
- Thread starter Ray IN
- Start date
Kent Petersen
Well-known Member
You better beg barrow OR steal a splitting stand or you may need a coffin
tomstractorsandtoys
Well-known Member
It could be done but not real safe. My first stand was just some scrap metal and a brace or two. To raise and lower it we added thin wood shims under the legs. I still use a floor jack and roll the back away. I put the drawbar in backwards and with the offset down add a 3/4 bolt and some washers and jack on that(sets in the cup on the floor jack so it can't slide around or off). Make sure to drop a bolt thru the carrier at the rear of the tractor into the drawbar so it can not slide in or out. Tom
I chock the rear wheels and support the belly of the trans with a big floor jack. I have a chain hoist supported by a four-way overhead trolley and chain a loop to it from the rear of the engine left and right. Works great because you can tweak the hoist and the jack when putting it back together.
I did one on a 4020 with heavy duty (blue or red) pallets and blocks under the pan and chassis side frame. It felt solid.
Do not ever forgot to put blocks at the wheels so front does not roll on you. I have also done splitting with rear end blocked front and rear, and moved the front with a chain bolted to the chassis on each side and a telehandler. Not super precise and would not recommend, but been there and done it.
If you put a chain binder in the system and can level loads, it is much easier. There are many exemple of splits stands on this site. It is better to built one. If you only have a fleet of old deeres, it does not even have to adjust in width, so ti can be built fairly quiclly and cheap,
Do not ever forgot to put blocks at the wheels so front does not roll on you. I have also done splitting with rear end blocked front and rear, and moved the front with a chain bolted to the chassis on each side and a telehandler. Not super precise and would not recommend, but been there and done it.
If you put a chain binder in the system and can level loads, it is much easier. There are many exemple of splits stands on this site. It is better to built one. If you only have a fleet of old deeres, it does not even have to adjust in width, so ti can be built fairly quiclly and cheap,
I've split a lot of them without stands. I use 4x4s to build cribbing under the front end. I put a jack under each frame rail. The jacks work great for alignment when you roll it back together. I have a couple old screw jacks that work better than hydraulic jacks because when you need to go down just a little you have better control. Wedge the front axle and block the front wheels. A good floor jack under the rear end on a smooth floor and you can roll it away from the front.
For easy realignment, you can use 2 3/4 all thread. It makes it much easier. Make sure the all thread is not ridiculously too long so that you can unscrew it from the back.
Do not use nuts to pull it together, ever, only use the all threads as guides.
While putting back 5020's together with 24.5-32 and rear weights on, I found that it is good to have the front solid on a stand, so you can use a comealong to roll it (gently), otherwise they are bears to move and you will be tired quickly. Even on even ground.
Do not use nuts to pull it together, ever, only use the all threads as guides.
While putting back 5020's together with 24.5-32 and rear weights on, I found that it is good to have the front solid on a stand, so you can use a comealong to roll it (gently), otherwise they are bears to move and you will be tired quickly. Even on even ground.
I split 3-4 a week here, and I have a couple very good home made stands, I roll the front ends and use a 15 ton floor jack on the rear, when going back together I get real particular on alignment,, measuring top to bottom side to side, I rarely use guide bolts on a clutch job, I like to be able to "jigger" it a bit when close,on heavy units I will get it close and block the front wheels and use 2 small floor jacks on the rear wheels tucked under a tire lug to give a little push and guidance as I turn the engine and PTO shaft,, On the PTO I use an old you joint yoke and stick a pry bar through it to turn the shaft..It is sort of an art along with a game of patience,,If one gives you too much trouble roll it back open and give it a look to see why..I have a 4555 and a 4455 split here now..
I agree, I generally don't use guide bolts. Measuring top and bottom, side to side and keep it all even. Wiggle , jiggle and turn makes it go together. It's fineness not muscle that gets the job done. If it just won't go together after rechecking everything then walk away and have lunch or a cup of coffee. Somehow things seen to slide right together after a break.
I have used a chain hooked around rear axle or step and hooked around front axle to help pull split tractors together . I just stand on the chain it creates enough pull to close the split but not damage things inside .It also makes good place wiggle and help realign left and right . Make sure to block the wheels on the stationary half .
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