4230 hard start, why?

Craig C

Member
The debate came up again this morning around the farmers round table discussion at the country store. Our 4230 started hard years ago. It was that way when we got it. Every one said that's just the way a 4230 is, it can't be fixed. It had several thousand hours on the tach and was tired. New engine kit, head work, injectors and injection pump and it starts as good as any tractor on our farm in cold weather without assistance. I will add that it has two 12 instead of a pair of 6 volt batteries, but other than that all stock and new replacement parts. We rebuilt it several years back and it is more of a utility tractor now, but people call me a liar when I tell them mine will start cold at reasonable temps. Plenty of other equipment will start with a rotary pump, other 404s start cold. Other than a hydraulic issue, why is a 4230 any different than starting a 4020? I guess I'm just not a believer in the myth. Air fuel, and compression and it will start.
 
I also think Deere and others were advertising "upgrades" to the piston designs in repair kits to improve starting.
 
Had one the exact way till I overhauled it and new injectors. It will start no problem in the winter, before it would not start below 55!
 
Yes, updated pistons, and thinner head gaskets. We bought a used 4230 in 1989, ran well, did not need an overhaul. The dealer would not sell it to us without changing the head gasket to ensure easier starting first. He was a good guy.
 
I believe the earlier 30 series tended to be more cold blooded versus the later ones. We have a 1974 model year 4230 and it tended to be a bit cold blooded. The engine had a prior overhaul with around 1800 hours. Shortly after purchase, it developed a leak at the head gasket. The tractor went into the shop, with the head being planed and the gasket replaced. This improved it more and it will start down to around 30 degrees without ether. I think when Deere came out with the 1969 model year tractors, the compression ratio may have been reduced as all of those models I was around didn't start anytime the temp was down to 45/50 degrees or lower. We had a 4320 that was impossible to start if left outside in the spring and fall, and if the temperature was 50 degrees or less, it wouldn't start at all. A friend of mine who had one said the following about his: "All I have to do is walk up to my 4320 with an ice cream cone in my hand on a hot summer day and the dang thing won't start!" We also had a 4630, but it was a 1976 model year. It had new sleeves and pistons installed some time after we purchased it. We also had the head planed after a head gasket failure and the valves all re-done. That tractor would start pretty quick down to 30 degrees without hesitation. If it does get cold out, I try to plug in the block heater well in advance of starting just because it is easier on the starter and the batteries.
 
The factory ones did not have high enough compression to start right. The same trouble was common on the JD 4430 too. When you overhaul them you usually are getting higher compression pistons. Also they changed the compression ring on the head gasket too. These two things will greatly improve the starting of them.
 
Had a 1974 4230 and it was cold blooded. As others have said. Also believe change in late production to 4 roller injection pump vs 2 roller first years. IIRC.
 
"two 12 instead of a pair of 6 volt batteries" is a major increase in the capability of the starting system. So when you say "other than that all stock and new replacement parts", you may not realize how major THAT change and re-configuration of batteries is for the starting of the tractor.
 
our new 4230 never did like to start.we put 3 new starters on three new injection pumps several sets of injectors all before 4500 hours .It needed either below 60 degrees..It was a lemon .

I was told that deere had a problem keeping deck heights the same . some were high some were low some started some didn't.

right now there are two 4630's on the place. Both sat on the lot new together after the 40 series were out. one has a john deere dealer overhaul about 6000 hours back it won't start below 60 without ether.turns over really fast. one never been opened up will start at 40 with no ether. only has one battery cranks just ok.Paul
 

That many pumps and starters is over looking something. If the injection event is late or the valves lashed too tight , she ain’t gonna start . Same as replacing a good working stock starter with another good working stock starter won’t help.
There are 5Kw 12V starters that will increase cranking rpms . Connection the battery’s ground connection to a starter mounting bolt will eliminate some voltage drops.
 

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